hey guys, Im new to the forum and need some help with a 383 build. Last year I rebuilt my engine and made it a 355, but now I have a spare block that I want to start my 383 build on. I am doing some research, and there are tons of options, and hopin for some .02 from you guys. And want to make sure I have the right parts list and things i need to replace and such. No budget persay but looking to spend around 5k for entire build. And engine will always be N/A.

1. block bored 30 over
2. Crank/pistons/rods- Not sure to buy a whole rotating assembly anywhere from 800-1400$. Does crank need to be forged? how bout pistons and rods?
Any brand names you guys recommend?
3. heads/cam- plan on using le2 package from lloyd elliot, with probalby224/236 .573/.570 112 LSA cam
4.Intake- stock one ported by LE
5.Converter-Probably a yank ss3200 or 3600
6.Looking for longtube headers, not sure what to get
7.Electric Water Pump
8. And can I just other misc. parts off my current engine?

I read that I need to make sure my clearances are good? what exactly are they talking about? Im sure theres alot Im missing, but if you guys can help, that would be greatly appreciated?

 

How much horsepower do you plan on making to the wheels?

 

To be honest, im not sure of the capabilities of a 383, I was figuring somewhere around 38-400. But like I said, not sure.

 

You don't need a 383 to get 400 at the wheels..... You can get that from a well built 350. Start with a horsepower target and work backwards. On your question about a forged crank....the answer is absolutely! I've seem a 383 built using a cast crank that failed by breaking clear through just behind the front main....buy the forged bits.

 

There are ways to get serious power out of a streetable 383, as long as you do your homework and use the right parts. Your budget will determine how fast you want to go.

The LT1 motor in my signature was built for about $7500 and delivers fantastic numbers, both on the dyno and at the track, after several months of planning. You will find that many folks simply rush into things blindly choosing parts without consideration to lesser known, better alternatives.

 

you also have to remember that 400rwhp is pushing the limits of the 10 bolt and the 4l60e somebody correct me if im wrong.

 

Get a copy of desktop dyno, it will save you TONS of time and will give you an estimated total hp and tq number.

 

Thanks for the responses. Luckily i have a couple months before I buy any parts, so I have time to research what I am going to get. Have another question, I was told to get -5cc pistons to help with compression, but was also told that if I get those, I wont be able to run pump gas anymore. If I go with different cc piston, will i be able to run on pump gas?
Do you guys think Id be better off buying a rotating assembly all together, or buy seperately and piece together. i was looking at a scat assembly, cast is 850$, forged is about 1350$. Probably going with forged. Kit comes already balanced and ready to go, what do you guys think?
and yes rear end and tranny will have work done as well.
And again thanks for your input

 

A -5cc piston is a flat-top piston. Piston choice alone does not determine what fuel octane you can run, contrary to what many self-proclaimed know-it-alls will claim. Piston choice is only a small part of the equation. Even then, your final static compression ratio has nothing to do with octane either; your dynamic compression is far more important and incorporates crucial valve timing events. My 383 runs at close to 13:1 static compression (9.6:1 dynamic) and runs like a bear.

You have a few choices with the rotating assembly. You can either emulate someone else's build, take your builder's advice, or a combination of both. There is absolutely NO reason for you to use a cast crank. If you're doing an engine build, do it right the first time and used all-forged components. If your budget doesn't allow it, WAIT until it does. Plan on at LEAST $3000 for the rotating assembly, done properly.

Keep in mind that the power is made in the valvetrain and specifically the cylinder heads, NOT the bottom end. The rotating assembly is the easy part - what are you doing for heads/cam? Are your goals still fairly low as indicated in your original post, or are you going to bump them? Do you have emissions to worry about?

For what it's worth, my motor uses a forged Ohio crankshaft, forged 6" Scat I-beams, and forged SRP pistons with an all-Advanced Induction valvetrain.

 

thanks ramair for the help. Looking at a forged rotating assembly from scat. All forged, KB pistons-flat top, rods are I beam, which type is better there, I or H?

Says kit comes with rings bearings, flexplate and pre balanced, I want internally balanced correct?All for about 1400$. Seems decent and all forged. Not sure what clearancing jobs have to be done on block and other parts, if you have any info there.

Concerning what my golas are, now knowing a lil info on 383, id say anywhere from 4-450 hp, and no emissions to worry about here.

Looking at an LE package for heads and cam, not sure if i want the le1, or le2 package, and a cam, as stated in my first post.
And from what I have read, is it better to have my machine shop build the whole bottom end that way I dont have to worry about any of it, or try and assemble it myself?

 

There really is no "better" rod type. H-beams are stronger, but are heavier and more expensive, and aren't really needed till serious (700HP+ is being conservative) power levels. If you're not planning on humping a big shot of spray through it, I-beams are more than enough.

Whether you have it balanced internally or externally is up to you and your builder. Mine is externally balanced - there really is no significant advantage either way.

The block will need to be bored (of course), clearanced for the stroker crank and, depending on your rod choice, you may need to run a (small) base circle cam or have the rods clearanced. Again, something to talk to your builder about, BEFORE you go buying parts. If you've never done it before, DEFINITELY have your builder take care of the bottom end. Something you must do is ask your shop if they are familiar with LT1s. If they are not, you MUST inform them about the differences between a normal SBC and an LT1. If you're lucky enough to have a decent shop, you can stop in now and then during the process and learn a thing or two. In the meantime, definitely read, read read! The more you know, the better.

Additional info sent via PM.

 

Can you please explain a base circle cam, not sure exactly what that means?

 

The base circle is the diameter of the camshaft itself, not including the parts of the lobe with valve events.

 

Seeing as the guy who posted right above you has a mediocre built 4L60E holding MORE power than that I would say yes you are in need of correction.

The OP has to consider "information" like your's and stop and wonder just how much other "information" he is basing his build on that is just really really poor.

The plan is a poor one and the budget insufficient.

 

Please explain dwayne, the reason for the post is to get info and input from others. Since you like to trash others ideas, can you please give me some tips then on my future build?