Too help thing out a little bit I acutally have both these motors built. THe 383 motor is in my '69 Camaro and the 396 is in my 94 Camaro. Both these motors are built with all the forged goodies.
I would have to say this from experience, the 383 would be slightly cheaper since there are more of these kits out there but there pretty much close. The bottom end is not going to make you the power but will handle it. Once you add heads, that's really going to be the cost and power factor. Just because I have 13 more cubes on my 396 doesn't mean i'm going to make more power. My 383 is making more power. It all depends on the cam selection, compression heads etc. My 396 is no slouch though, since it pumped out close to 550 horse on the dyno
Some people might say 396 becase it's also different and not too many people have done that. Usually most people have done 383's. The only reason I did it, is because it's different.

 

I'm 40 over on my 396. Motor before this was a 383. Both were/are great motors. I only went with the 396 this time to see how much power I could make. The more cubes the better in most cases. Of course this time I'm running different heads and a Solid cam. If you have the money, go for the 396, if not, 383. You wont be disapointed. Just remember, Heads and Cam are what make hp, so don't be cheap there. If you can swing it, through some ported AFR 210's on there ported by who ever you choose.

 

You kinda touched on it earlier. Increasing the cu.in. also increases the DCR. Rich used to hound that and it kinda sunk in me. Anyways, depending on your head / cam combo, the 396 may be too much or just right. But, don't do it just to do it. A typical off the shelf cam may not be your best interest for either a 383 or 396. Just watch your DCR.

 

You need to learn your engines a little better. The 400 was an entirely different block than the 350. There's no way you could bore the 350 to the 400 bore size.

 

I think what Cantonracer was trying to get accros was that the early 400 SBCs were known thin walled and they were safetly bored that. I myself have seen a 305 from the mid 80s , known to be weak bored 60 over and still running today 10 years later. The point is only a sonic testing will tell you for sure how safe it will be to bore a block , there are alot of considerations, like core shift.

 

this engine will be NA. so should i go cast or forged? it will not see spray or a blower. and i will probably not ever take it above 6800 or so. im not one of those people who go buy a 4000 dollar computer becuase there stock pcm wont work any more. its just a weekend warrior kinda thing.


i thank you all for the suggstions. now could yall start telling me some places that sell kits combonation motrorsorts sells one for 1200$. but heres a link to there engine kits. and im looking at one of the first three. they come with all bearings, rings and balanced with that price. so which one would you think would be for me. and if you know any other palce thats sells good kits like the ones above please let me know.


any more suggestions is appreciated.

 

Cast crank is good up to 500 hp. You'll be fine with hypers too. You can still use hypers and get N2O for a burst later.

But, since you're getting up there, you may want to consider to use studs for your mains. Cheap insurance. You don't want any spun bearings.

 

scat9000 sereies crank are rated to 600 hp and 7500rpm. but I can gurentee they can take alot more the 700-750hp is more there max I believe. but thats just my opinion.

 

True, Scats are very good. I was referring to the stock crank. Which has been reported to 500 hp. You can probably push it more. In any case, you will be able to handle NA no problem.