Ok I need some input can any one give me the ups or downs on booth of these build ups a 383 or 396. I'm trying to decide wich way to go and am looking for input on these. Also input on short blocks from Golen. I was kicking around the idea of building or ordering a new engine.

 

The only difference is a little bigger stroke for the 396 but unless you are going all out race and plan to run single plain intake and what not you really wont see any difference between the 2. Unless you just want to say i have a 396. A 396 will also cost more to build due to clearance more issues then a 393

 

There are often problems in assembling a 396 that are non-existent or less severe with a 383. Rod to cam clearance and the possibility of entering the water jacket (and ruining the block) are all much more an issue with the extra 0.125" stroke. Stick with the 383.

Rich

 

There are several LT engine builders (Golen for example) that are “very proficient” at building a 396 short-block with 3.875” stroke. Their 396 engines are build correctly (all the correct parts and machining), will make over 500 HP and provide very reliable service.

When it comes to high performance and cubic inches, bigger is always better! I have a Golen 396 stroker short-block and I’m very happy I went with the 396 (11.30s @ over 120 MPH)!

WD

 

Arent those traps speed pretty consistant with LE heads/cam cars?. Im not knocking your setup or anything but when i see people like Javier and others trapping in the 120 range on the regular. You have to ask is it worth it?

 

This has been discussed before, but from my experience what you get with a properly built 383 is nice power/torque curves at lower rpms than 355 counterparts...While the 355s are, no doubt, bad *** they typically need more converter and gear to help achieve the higher rpms needed to make the power...In my case I run 11.30s at 120 while only spinning the thing to 6300 rpm using ported stock LT1 castings and a 226/234 cam. This may be why my shortblock has been together for 12 years with no issues...

--Alan

 

I though the question was about a 383 or 396 build? Not to a race build 355 comparison…..

I like both the consistency and durability of my 396 stroker. And, if I wanted to make my car a complete race car (some weight reduction, Etc.), four tenths quicker would make it a consistent 10.90 car.

So yes, the 396 is worth it!

WD

 

13CID probably won't win ya many races.
The grinding in the block for clearance is subject to hit water also.

There are just more headaches to contend with and not that much HP difference if any.

 

I would agree with LR. Go with a 383. The added headaches/clearancing required with a 396 isn't worth few extra cubes.

 

If you're buying a professionally built 396 short-block from Golen, you won't be doing any grinding, or clearancing! Therefore, no headaches or aspirin required.

All you’ll need with the Golen short-block are some great performing heads and a top-of-the-line hydraulic roller cam.

WD

 

It might be more difficult to get a 396 with pistons with a proper size dish/valve reliefs to get dynamic compression where it's supposed to be. I would rather take a 383 where all the specs are right on vs a 396 with compromises.

Other than that, dealing with an assembled 396 shortblock is not a bigger deal than a 383.

 

True, if he's buying a complete shortblock with oil pan from Golen there shouldn't be any issues. His initial post mentioned that he may be looking to have the motor built, which is where my advice was coming from in which case I'd go with a 383. If he's considering dropping $4500 for a Golen 396 or $4300 for a 383, I'd go with the 396 since you will have a full warranty. However, there's always potential for unforseen issues like the pan not being clearanced enough in the correct spots - you run that risk with a 383 as well, but the stuff obviously needs to be clearanced more with a 396 and stuff expands when the motor gets up to operating temps, which can decrease your clearance tolerances. With that said, I've never heard a bad thing about Golen so I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of their 396 shortblocks.

 

Just because someone has more CID doesn't mean it's automatically going to run in the low 10's for Christ sakes.
How many LE LT1 heads/cam/stock block combos are running 120mph?

 

Like I said I'm not sure if i will build it my self or order one from golen. I understand what clearences need to be on a cold engine this wouldn't be my first stroker build up, just haven't heard that much about the 396. Just wondered if anyone has had any common problems with the 396. But i'm starting to lean towards buying a golen compared to building. The warranty really sells the whole idea of buying rather than building.

 

I would never recommend building something to that caliber for the first time. Just think if your bearing clearances weren't right or the main caps weren't machined correctly or the line bore was off, so on and so forth.. you'd have to tote it to a shop to have it worked on and that can be a real PITA. There's way too much involved with building an engine like that out of a garage. Most times things do not go right and do not just bolt on or fit precisely.
You want to mess around with building a bottom end then I'd suggest getting some sort of short block that you don't care about and knock yourself out.
When building an engine you are investing a bit of money into you want to build a relationship with your machinist and you want your machinist to build a relationship with your engine. If those two things can co-exist then everything else is gravy.