LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

383 or 355?

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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:28 AM
  #31  
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Sounds like your gonna have a pretty sweet ride when your done mike. What kind of numbers do you think you will put down?
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:47 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jperran
Money put into a 10 bolt is money put into the trash, and that's the bottom line. I don't care what some thread in the drivetrain section says.
The thread in the drivetrain section not only "says" what I am telling it, its been proven.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...up+the+10+bolt

Maybe you should read it.
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #33  
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Some people are tryin to blow this **** out of proportion. If you read my first post I said BUY A NEW REAREND OR ATLEAST BEEF UP THE STOCK ONE. I never said it was the best way to go, it's jus a cheap and most definitely more effective than a straight stock rearend. As you can see I suggested buying a new rearend first.
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by stantheman601
Some people are tryin to blow this **** out of proportion. If you read my first post I said BUY A NEW REAREND OR ATLEAST BEEF UP THE STOCK ONE. I never said it was the best way to go, it's jus a cheap and most definitely more effective than a straight stock rearend. As you can see I suggested buying a new rearend first.
Some people on this thread have heard a few things from friends or know somebody who has a fast car and then think they know everything about anything, so don't take offense to it. They're not being mean, they're just extremely ignorant. It's no secret that a 12-Bolt of 9" is the way to go when you're making serious power. But it's also no secret that those can run you about $2500. Just because this kid says that 10-Bolts can't hold anything doesn't make it true. It's a well known fact that countless stock 10-Bolt rearends have and still are running 10 second quarter miles. While they're far from being what I would call "strong", with a few cheap tweaks they can handle 10's for quite some time.
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 08:06 PM
  #35  
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Check out www.cpengines.com for the best engines and prices around!

Jake 317-697-6061 Feel free to call
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 08:29 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by bkpliskin
Some people on this thread have heard a few things from friends or know somebody who has a fast car and then think they know everything about anything, so don't take offense to it. They're not being mean, they're just extremely ignorant. It's no secret that a 12-Bolt of 9" is the way to go when you're making serious power. But it's also no secret that those can run you about $2500. Just because this kid says that 10-Bolts can't hold anything doesn't make it true. It's a well known fact that countless stock 10-Bolt rearends have and still are running 10 second quarter miles. While they're far from being what I would call "strong", with a few cheap tweaks they can handle 10's for quite some time.
What you said (more or less). 12 bolt or bigger is ideal, but there are other ways.
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 09:39 PM
  #37  
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Thank you. Some people just think that everyone want a straight up drag car. Not everyone has the money for that. I just put the options on the table and the thread maker can choose
Old Oct 24, 2009 | 12:12 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by stantheman601
Sounds like your gonna have a pretty sweet ride when your done mike. What kind of numbers do you think you will put down?
Me Mike ?
Old Oct 24, 2009 | 12:59 AM
  #39  
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I want some of what you two are smoking. If he has the money for a built engine, he has the money for a real rear end. There is no option for the 10 bolt, it's a piece of **** and for every 10 bolts you find that some dude ran a 10 on, you will find 10 that slower cars broke. The 10 bolt CAN NOT be upgraded in any meaningful way, plain and simple. Putting in a real rear end doesn't make it an all out drag car. You want to lay out options for the OP?

Ok, here they are,

Option 1 is to break 10 bolts

Option 2 is to not break a 12 bolt, 9", or S60

There, he now has all his options.
Old Oct 24, 2009 | 10:58 AM
  #40  
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I'm just speechless. It's impossible to get some **** through ignorant peoples heads. The thread maker asked about saving monEy, I gave him options on the rearends several times, your the only ignorant person that can't seem to understand that I never said... F it, I'm tired of repeating myself. And yeah mike I was asking about your car. Seems like you went all out. Jus curious as to what numbers you will put down. Good luck with the build.
Old Oct 24, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by jperran
I want some of what you two are smoking. If he has the money for a built engine, he has the money for a real rear end. There is no option for the 10 bolt, it's a piece of **** and for every 10 bolts you find that some dude ran a 10 on, you will find 10 that slower cars broke. The 10 bolt CAN NOT be upgraded in any meaningful way, plain and simple. Putting in a real rear end doesn't make it an all out drag car. You want to lay out options for the OP?

Ok, here they are,

Option 1 is to break 10 bolts

Option 2 is to not break a 12 bolt, 9", or S60

There, he now has all his options.
So explain to me how having the money for a built engine = having the money for a $2500 rear end. I sure wish when I was done building my engine that my straight pipes pooped out $2500. If someone has saved and saved for quite some time to build a car, chances are they are on a budget. If someone has a $5000 budget they are probably going to take car of the engine and the transmission first. And yes there are ways to strengthen a 10-Bolt, the links have been posted for you. If you choose to refute what has already been proven over and over again, you will continue to make yourself look stupid. I'm running a 10-Bolt. Look at my mods. My rear end has never broken. I have also not done anything to beaf it up. Bone stock 13 year old 10 bolt. SUCK IT!
Old Oct 24, 2009 | 11:30 AM
  #42  
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Also, there are downsides to using for example a 9" over a 10 bolt. If someone is building a weekend street car or doing a lot of highway driving, the 9" will reduce your RWHP by about 15-20. FIFTEEN TO TWENTY RWHP. Most people aren't pulling hole shots 24/7 with sub 1.5 60' times. Most people build their cars to cruise around on the streets and in their case a 9" is going to make their care feel noticably slower on the street.
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 12:31 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by stantheman601
yeah mike I was asking about your car. Seems like you went all out. Jus curious as to what numbers you will put down. Good luck with the build.
I'm just hopping it runs when i get all back together. . .

I'm shooting for a strong high torque 406 engine, I'd like to see 415hp-435hp & 450-480tq for power numbers and it be stable enough i could daily drive it all summer long or at least on the weekends. . .

Mike
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 12:38 PM
  #44  
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Man I love high tq engines! There's nothing better than feeling that power as soon as you hit the gas. Haha I was worried after my rebuild as well. I don't think I have ever been as nervous as when I first tried to start it up!
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 12:57 PM
  #45  
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I always loved the off line rapid acceleration. . .

I'm am hopping with my high torque numbers and the 3.73's it'll launch Hard n quick, and i'm hopping with my Horse power numbers and the stage 3 4L60E i can get it up to 120-135mph or so for top end.

My main goal tho is a lightning quick 0-75mph !

Mike



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