Cool ZR

Hello,

I have a 95 Z28 that currently has a 4L60E falling out of it. I picked up a M6 from a car that caught fire on the top end.. guy didn't use the proper fuel pressure clamp... It basically just burned up the injectors and wiring. They practically gave me the motor with almost new BBK shorties on it.

Since I now have this core and I am tearing my car apart anyways for the trans, I am considering doing a rebuild. The motor in the car has 165 km's on it now. The car is to be street driven with some parking lot road coarse. I have no plans of n20, of s/c or going to the track with the car. The car also must pass an emmission test here in Ontario, Canada.

With all that being said, I am looking at using a LE1 package to ensure I can past the sniffer. Do I really need forged pieces for the bottom end? Can I not simply just use the stock bottom end pieces and have them balanced and cleaned up?

What do I honestly need for this rebuild? I don't mind spending the extra money provided it has a valuable use. I've done some research and the 355's I read up on all seem to want a power adder at some point and no consideration of emissions.

Thanks

TheNuge876

getting a new cast steel crank from summit is like 189 USD its a bit stronger than the iron one, reuse the pistons if you really want them and get some new rods, not that expensive also do a new gasket set and a rering. If you still want to keep it relatively inexpensive. That might be somewhere to start.

Cool ZR

I read one thread that suggested using the stock crank, but balancing it. Any thoughts on that?

I am not against buying pieces provided they have a valuable use. Putting pieces in to bench race is a waste of money. I just don't want to throw money at it, I want to do it logically and not go overboard and overkill.

If putting in stock pieces proves reliable, great; otherwise a new set of pistons doesn't bug me. I am really only looking for a boost in performance and making the car 100% reliable again. It will get a new opti, etc, etc as well. The car won't leak any oil and look nice and neat under the hood again.

FastZinTennessee

If you're wanting to put an LE1 setup on the motor, I would just have the stock internals reworked. Meaning- have a competent machine shop inspect your crank, rods and pistons and re-use as much of the stock pieces as you can. You'll obviously have to replace the bearings, piston rings, oil pump and gaskets at the bare minimum, and at most you'll have to buy new oversized pistons if your block needs a bore, and get the crank turned in addition to the basics.

The stock internals will be fine for what you want to do, I would not bother upgrading them.

Cool ZR

FastZ,

I was thinking that would be the way to go, but wanted to hear that from someone else who had done that or had experience with it. It's too bad I have to E-test her every 2 years.... that LE2 package isn't that much more $$$ really.

Oh well. I am hoping someone with experience in building higher HP motor and still making it pass smog will have some more input for me on what I can and can't do.

Thanks for the replies so far guys

Cool ZR

Has anyone else done a mild motor build up that had to meet emission regulatoins? If so I would love to hear from you.

Thanks

95Bird

Your stock crank will be fine..it works for me.

Cool ZR

95Bird,

Is your car emissions tested? If so I would love to hear some more about your setup and where you got them from.

95Bird

there is no way on Gods green earth that my car could pass emissions. sorry but its just not possible with my setup. Big solid roller kills any chances. Sorry.

I just posted in the thread to show that a stock crank can handle anything that you can throw at it. Mine has been together for about 4 years and turning 7000+ rpms. Its a stock crank with a blueprinted/balanced bottem end.

blkchevyz

i would do stock crank and rods, then get some hyper. pistons with a little more compression.

Cool ZR

95Bird,

Sorry man, didn't even notice your sig! *L* It would be nice if you could hit 475HP and still pass emissions!

FastZinTennessee

My last setup was homeported heads with bigger valves, a HOTcam and a full set of bolt-ons. It also had a PCMforless mail order tune. SLP headers into a random tech 3" high flow cat and flowmaster exhaust. It passed the Tennessee emmissions test, with only about half the allowable emmissions. This would be considered about as mild a heads/cam setup as you can get.

Cool ZR

In case this information is of any help.... The last time I had the car checked, it went through a 2 speed idle tailpipe inspection. The numbers were as follows:

2500 RPM
HO PPM 24 out of 200
CO% 0.03 out of 1
RPM 2392
Dilution 15.23

Idle
HO PPM 22 out of 200
CO% 0.00 out of 1
RPM 648
Dilution 15.30

It looks like they checked for the Cat, and I got a pass on the gas cap and fuel filter integrity check

I also just noticed that in big letters that this vehicle is still subject to onroad enforcement.

Steve0

I asked this same question yesterday and it appears most people suggest that using the stock internals is fine as long as you dont plan on spraying or runnign forced induction. I am still contemplating running forged rods/pistons just incase I do want to spray the car one day...

I was also contemplating the LE2 package.. or possibly an AI package since they are somewhat local to me. My question to you is, if you are worried about emmissions, why not just run a LE1 cam with LE2 heads? That ought to be a good compromise... or you could size a similar cam from Comp or Crane if youre trying to save a few bucks.

Jeremy95TA

He's doing a 355. I don't think that you can use the stock pistons after that. I don't think they will fit properly...