Bring it on down when the weather warms up(summer). There are a couple down here that would take that bet.(383's that is and one ? large) 6.20-6.30 in the 1/8 mile on motor and DR's.

 

It's going to Washington Larry.... and it's a Road Race motor so unless the tires on the front of that thing as big as the rears its not going to be much of a race. Either way 1500's for the bobweight and some healthy heads should make it a screamer.

Get you 383 done already so these guys see what a real one does.

Either way I thought you southern boys liked the winter then you can get those low DA's and run those unobtainable times.

Bret

 

This is a pretty good topic. I personally wasn't worried about the reliability of the 383, but Bret was the one that commented about reliability. I want to shift somewhere between 6600-6800 rpms. Any other comments?

 

I see both sides of the coin. I just got my 383 on the road with initial dyno numbers at Thunder Racing in my sig below. The car is making great power and is a blast to drive. We're currently changing the intake, going to speed density tune, and a few other things, and looking for 500rwhp N/A. On the other hand, a good friend of mine, 95Bird on the board here has a 355 that makes around 470rwhp and that car is also nasty and runs hard. I think if you'd ask him if he'd take the extra cubic inches on his motor, he'd do it in a heartbeat.

So, the question is: Is it worth it? Well, it IS worth it when the additional cost of a nicely built 383 bottom end does not require you to go cheaper or lesser quality on the top end parts including heads, cam, and valvetrain. I'd take a LE2 headed 383 with the proper cam over an LE2 headed 355 with a proper cam anyday.

 

I totally agree with Bret on this. 383 will take ALOT more money to do it right, just the plain and simple fact of it(been there, done that). I also went the 355 route, although I could have done a stroker. Sure if ya have the money to go all out with a 383, then do it. On the street, anybody with a 355 with a H/C setup will tell you that you dont really need more torque. Over 350RWHP and kick it down in auto or downshift in a M6 and you will break the tires loose easily at a 40mph roll. I actually prefer a quick revving engine over a torquey one, but hey thats me. As for the downshifting at 40mph statment, i believe thats what the proper gear selection and rear gear choice is for. With the right gears to compliment mods with stock hp you wouldn't need to downshift while passing? And lastly, who says that being able to pussyfoot around and leave the car in 6th to pass a car is fun cuz ya got alittle more torque? Me swatting the shifter @55mph on the highway and getting squirly was plenty of fun for me...

 

Me personally I would do a 383. Come on down I will build ya one. Max effort will be in the $20,000 range. One that will put out 680-720FWHP on pump gas.Then ya will have to get some REAL tires.
Bret can do it too. When he speeks of average he is talking what most people build and thats a 400-425RWHP verson that most on the board will build or have built.

 

But if both were going to be all forged, how much difference is there in the price of the bottom end? Not much. I mean, if you're going forged (as the original poster stated) you're buying a crank, rods and pistons anyway. Small difference, even including the machining on the block.

So the extra $$$ is in the top end. Intake and heads, to be specific, since cam cost is the same. Maybe a little more $$$ for the injectors too.

Maybe some numbers about the $$$ difference specifics would help out the people trying to decide. I don't think it's that much more expensive, given the cost of a "done right" bottom end being close to the same either way, but "expensive" is a relative term.

 

Well he could always make a pass and turn left and come back the other way,shifting 'bout 10,500!!!!
DA is one thing,cold is another. They are still running on Fri night and Sun afternoon. When it get's to a high of 40* with a 20MPH "breeze",overcast and 90% humidity, I stay my old a** by the fire.

Working my *** off on it.Doing the exhaust now 3-1/2 Y into a 4" out the back and NOTHING can be bought it has to be MADE and I ain't gonna pay somebody to do what I can do and probably neater.Muflex hangs out the bottom too much and the ride height is Loooooo. Only want to do it once and not redo every weekend of being on the street and getting drug off.

 

Your right, the bottom end costs are relatively similar. There are a few things that can take the average 383 to cost a bit more than a 355 but thats it. The air requirements for a 7000 RPM 383 are just not fulfillable with stock castings as far as I can tell. Also from what i have seen personally and from some other very good sources theres is much to be gained on even a 355 with a single plane conversion, more cubes just elevates this. So if ya add the cost of an aftermarket head (TFS, AFR, Converted Gen 1, etc) plus the additional work needed, and valvetrain parts, then the single plane conversion which is around $1500, but can be even more expensive from vertain sources. Thats a pretty easily calculated $3000+ on the very conservative side.

 

To do one "right" ya gonna have 1,000-1,200 in machine shop work. I don't want to hear all the" I got mine done for 500". If ya did ya didn't do it right. 355 will cost almost that much if done "right".

 

There is one down here that runs 10.3's with stock castings 2.0I/1.56E@3400lbs and a Holley SR.

 

1racerdude brings up a good point in the post above about nothing can be bought off the shelf, it has to be made. If anything, that is the one thing that frustrates me to no end...whenever I need a part for my motor, I can't just call up a vendor and have it shipped the next day. When you build a 400rwhp or lower motor, you can get your valvesprings, pushrods, guideplates, gaskets, spark plugs that day.

 

If it is built right and all forged With GOOD heads and intake ya could shift at 8,500 no problem.

 

Turbo6
I was speaking about this @##@@%%^^^& exhaust. Bend or couple together bends to put the 4" over the axle and out the back with a sump in the tank. Them foreign cars ain't got nothing on this exhaust. It's damn near as big as a coffee can. Gonna look like a diesel school bus hanging out the back. Heeee Heeee
Ya are right all of the stuff for the shop car had to be built,remade to fit,or otherwise special. Somethings ya have to make the car fit them too.

 

Definately not the norm thats for sure, i think you would agree with me on that. For what its worth, from my experiences there are alot of dissappointing times with 383's compared to 355's. I do think thats mostly due
to people just assuming that a 383 is better, and not talking into consideration the extra cost. This leads them to short change the topend IMO. My first personal experience with my 383 was a real eye opener as far as costs go, especially when i thought for so long that the price of a 355 and a 383 were virtually the same...i definately shifted my thoughts about a 383 being a "budget Build". For the 355 build i went with, it was actually the most budget oriented motor i have had built thus far....and personally I wouldn't want anything less.

Like I said before my vote goes for a 355 unless you have some real high goals, and a large pocketbook.