355 stroker
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,985
From: In a house by the bay
Sorry, but this isn't a forum for people trying to learn the basics of engines.... hence the title, "Advanced Tech".
Do some reading online. Use Google to search for "Stroker engines" and "calculating engine displacement". I think you'll learn a good deal from your findings.
Good luck.
-Mindgame
Do some reading online. Use Google to search for "Stroker engines" and "calculating engine displacement". I think you'll learn a good deal from your findings.
Good luck.
-Mindgame
is correct. 
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 4,950
From: San Diego, CA
The term "stroker" means that you've increased the stroke of the pistons. To do this you need to change crankshafts and have the block clearanced so that the rotating assembly doesn't hit anything. This increase in stroke translates into increased displacement of your engine as the cubic inches are dteremined by how moch volume your pistons move. So a stroked 350 can become a 383 or a 396 depending on which crankshaft you choose.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 389
From: Palmetto FL/Tallahassee FL
A 350 cubic inch motor is turned into a 355 c.i. motor by enlarging the bore on the cylinders.. not by stroking. That's why some of the guys are razzing you 
Contrary to popular belief stroking does not mean "increasing displacement" stroking means "increasing the distance the piston travels up and down in the cylinder" the obvious result of course is an increase in displacement.
I don't know how much you know so I don't want to talk down to you or anything.. I'd suggest you do some searching on here and on the internet (google) and figure out what track times you want and what hp and tq you will need to get there. Then figure out how you're gonna get those figures (naturally aspirated, blower/turbo, or nitrous). Then figure out what engine configuration will work best with that setup. I hate to oversimplify but.. forced induction and n2o setups usually run best with the bullet proof 350/355 (forged internals). 396's have more extreme angles and clearances and so most (but certainly not all) run them N/A. Honestly, I think a 355 + blower is the way to go.. but that's just me. Really, a good heads and cam car with all the bolt-ons (and traction) will go fast enough to turn heads at the local track.. Unless you're building a track car or you blew your engine I don't think you need to go any deeper than the valve train.
Contrary to popular belief stroking does not mean "increasing displacement" stroking means "increasing the distance the piston travels up and down in the cylinder" the obvious result of course is an increase in displacement. I don't know how much you know so I don't want to talk down to you or anything.. I'd suggest you do some searching on here and on the internet (google) and figure out what track times you want and what hp and tq you will need to get there. Then figure out how you're gonna get those figures (naturally aspirated, blower/turbo, or nitrous). Then figure out what engine configuration will work best with that setup. I hate to oversimplify but.. forced induction and n2o setups usually run best with the bullet proof 350/355 (forged internals). 396's have more extreme angles and clearances and so most (but certainly not all) run them N/A. Honestly, I think a 355 + blower is the way to go.. but that's just me. Really, a good heads and cam car with all the bolt-ons (and traction) will go fast enough to turn heads at the local track.. Unless you're building a track car or you blew your engine I don't think you need to go any deeper than the valve train.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RUENUF
Cars For Sale
6
Mar 13, 2016 03:37 PM