355 stroker
#2
Sorry, but this isn't a forum for people trying to learn the basics of engines.... hence the title, "Advanced Tech".
Do some reading online. Use Google to search for "Stroker engines" and "calculating engine displacement". I think you'll learn a good deal from your findings.
Good luck.
-Mindgame
Do some reading online. Use Google to search for "Stroker engines" and "calculating engine displacement". I think you'll learn a good deal from your findings.
Good luck.
-Mindgame
#4
The term "stroker" means that you've increased the stroke of the pistons. To do this you need to change crankshafts and have the block clearanced so that the rotating assembly doesn't hit anything. This increase in stroke translates into increased displacement of your engine as the cubic inches are dteremined by how moch volume your pistons move. So a stroked 350 can become a 383 or a 396 depending on which crankshaft you choose.
#6
A 350 cubic inch motor is turned into a 355 c.i. motor by enlarging the bore on the cylinders.. not by stroking. That's why some of the guys are razzing you Contrary to popular belief stroking does not mean "increasing displacement" stroking means "increasing the distance the piston travels up and down in the cylinder" the obvious result of course is an increase in displacement.
I don't know how much you know so I don't want to talk down to you or anything.. I'd suggest you do some searching on here and on the internet (google) and figure out what track times you want and what hp and tq you will need to get there. Then figure out how you're gonna get those figures (naturally aspirated, blower/turbo, or nitrous). Then figure out what engine configuration will work best with that setup. I hate to oversimplify but.. forced induction and n2o setups usually run best with the bullet proof 350/355 (forged internals). 396's have more extreme angles and clearances and so most (but certainly not all) run them N/A. Honestly, I think a 355 + blower is the way to go.. but that's just me. Really, a good heads and cam car with all the bolt-ons (and traction) will go fast enough to turn heads at the local track.. Unless you're building a track car or you blew your engine I don't think you need to go any deeper than the valve train.
I don't know how much you know so I don't want to talk down to you or anything.. I'd suggest you do some searching on here and on the internet (google) and figure out what track times you want and what hp and tq you will need to get there. Then figure out how you're gonna get those figures (naturally aspirated, blower/turbo, or nitrous). Then figure out what engine configuration will work best with that setup. I hate to oversimplify but.. forced induction and n2o setups usually run best with the bullet proof 350/355 (forged internals). 396's have more extreme angles and clearances and so most (but certainly not all) run them N/A. Honestly, I think a 355 + blower is the way to go.. but that's just me. Really, a good heads and cam car with all the bolt-ons (and traction) will go fast enough to turn heads at the local track.. Unless you're building a track car or you blew your engine I don't think you need to go any deeper than the valve train.
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