Hey guys, I'm getting ready to build a 355 and need some major help. I don't know what components will work in my LT1 and I'm on a very tight budget. I've had my Z for a couple of years, but it's been sitting with a blown engine for almost a year now. I was driving a Honda Prelude (for gas mileage purposes) but my girlfriend totaled it a couple nights ago with only liability insurance on it. I was planning on selling the Prelude when summer came to pay for the engine build...but now I'm limited to approx $2000-$3000 for the build. Anyway, I've been messing with DesktopDyno and came up with an engine package that will make approx 400 hp and ft. lbs. of torque at the flywheel, and that's fine with me.

Last summer, I blew a head gasket and rebuilt the top of the motor. The cylinder walls looked fine so I elected to only put head gaskets, water pump, opti and tune-up in it. Ran fine for 2 days and then spun a rod bearing.

Anyway, I've checked with a local machine shop and here are the prices they gave me if I decide to use my old crank and rods:
Bore Block - $130
Install Cam Bearings - $35
Install Freeze Plugs - $20
Turn Crank - $82
Turn Rods - $120
Pistons - Speed Pro H597P30 - $254
Rings - Sealed Power E530K30 - $160
Install Pistons on Rods - $64

Total $616 for rotating assembly related parts/service not including pressing the pistons onto the rods. I forgot to ask about putting the rings on the pistons, but I might go ahead and do that myself.

Anyway, I found this on eBay for $559 with free shipping (neutral balance crank)

New SCAT nodular iron crankshaft. 9-10526 - 1-pc rear main (2-pc available)
New SCAT I-beam press fit 4130 chrome moly connecting rods 3-ICR5700P
Speed Pro hypereutectic flat top pistons H345NCP coated - +.030" overbore. other sizes available
Moly Federal Mogul rings +.030" - other sizes available
Clevite 77 rod bearings - P series
Clevite 77 main bearings - P series

I'm not sure that this is the right kit for the LT1 because the piston part number is different than the one the machine shop quoted me for.

I'd like to put a Comp Cams 07-304-08 cam, 1.6 Roller Tip Rockers, BBK Long Tube headers, and a 58mm throttle body on it while I have it out and also have my stock heads pocket ported and have the gasket surfaces matched(I had them pressure checked when I did the top-end). The car already has a Hooker Super Competition cat-back and the cat has a pipe driven through the middle of it. I'm also going to go ahead and gasket match and polish my intake and make the provisions for the 58mm throttle body while I have it off. I will more than likely wait until sometime down the road to add a new ignition system.

Anyway, if any of you guys could give me some friendly advice I would definitely appreciate it. I'm a little confused on which pistons will work, which cranks will work, and where would be the best place to buy the parts I need and not break my budget. The car ran great when I drove it, but I always wanted just a little more out of it. I'm not looking for a 12 second car...just need something dependable and faster than stock. I doubt I'll ever add nitrous or blower to it in the future. Thanks ahead of time.

Paul

 

I did a fully forged 355.

Eagle Lw crank= 600 bux (summit)
Eagle Lw rods and wiesco pistons w/ rings= 700 bux (off board)
Machine labor= 920 bux
.030 bore/hone
bearings/freeze plugs
balancing
assembly

Hope that helped.

 

Hey 94Z thanks for the reply. Ya know, I think I've decided not to build an engine at the moment. I called AutoZone and priced a long block...$1695.98 including tax and gaskets for putting my parts on the engine...and 18 month warranty. I'm going to buy a cam, headers, and 1.6 aluminum roller rockers for now (because I really need this car, as my other car is totaled and I have no vehicle) and build an engine over the next year or so. I know the aftermarket parts will void the warranty, but I'll just swap the other parts back in if anything goes wrong with it in the next couple miles. Total price of engine and the accessories is $2294.77 so that's right in my current price range, until I can allot a little more money for the build. At least I won't have buy headers, cam, and rocker arms when I do build the next engine.

When the time comes, I may buy a 383 short block from nu-tek motorsports, or I might build one myself just for the satisfaction of it. I do have a couple more questions, though. The engine I'm thinking of ordering from AutoZone is already a 355...by adding a cam, rockers, and headers, will I need to have the PCM tuned? My friend has a SnapOn scanner (one of the expensive ones) and I was wondering if it's possible to tune parameters with it? Would I be able to use a PowerProgrammer to tune it? Thanks again and thanks ahead of time for any other replies