LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

355 forged bottom end, what parts to get...

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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 09:15 AM
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355 forged bottom end, what parts to get...

I am contemplating go the fully forged 355 route. Now I am not going to say, "Money is not a problem." I don't mind spending some good coin for some good parts, but I am not going for the absolute most expensive pieces.

So lets say, I want to run a heads/cam fully forged (yes crank also) 355 with say a 200 - 250 shot on it.

What would be a good set of pistons? I am probably shooting for high compression since that won't affect the nitrous at all.

What size and brand of rods should I go with?

What is a GOOD crank? I know these can get expensive, but what is a good forged crank.

ALso, what all is definately needed while building a 355, machining whise? Obviously the cylinders will be bored .030 over, so what else should I do at the same time. Is balancing and blueprinting necessary?

How much is a setup up like this going to net rwhp wise? Probably looking at something along the lines of the CC306 cam size with some NICE heads. Thanks guys.
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 09:22 AM
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You may want to try posting this in the Nitrous forum. As far as pistons go I would recommend going with either JE, Diamond or Ross.

Crank: Cola, Lunati, Callies

Rods: Eagle, Lunati, Oliver
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 12:30 PM
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Okay, I posted this in the N20 forum.
Who sells these parts individually?
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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Originally posted by texasTA
Okay, I posted this in the N20 forum.
Who sells these parts individually?
I would highly recommend Combination Motorsports.
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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Thanks man, I will check them out now.

Oh, and a fully forged 355 heads/cam motor should easily handle 200-250 shot, right?
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 01:18 PM
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I have a 355,parts i used in my bottom end are.
1.callies magmun plus crank
2.oliver billet rods
3.je pistons

my compression is right about 12.1,its plumbed for the bottle,havent sprayed it yet,i have only put about 3000 miles right now.
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 01:23 PM
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I'm about to do the same set up, only I'm not going ALL forged. I just want something that'll handle 150-175 shot with no problem...I checked out the Summit rebuild kit. I believe it comes with forged pistons (can't remember the name of them) and everything else you'd need, minus rods and crank I believe. $530 isn't a bad price at all...

I'm just going to have my stock crank prepped and ground if it needs it and have the block decked...
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 02:33 PM
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Originally posted by JEREMYHERMAN
I have a 355,parts i used in my bottom end are.
1.callies magmun plus crank
2.oliver billet rods
3.je pistons

my compression is right about 12.1,its plumbed for the bottle,havent sprayed it yet,i have only put about 3000 miles right now.
Is there anyway you can give me a detailed list on what parts you used. Like exactly which type of JE pistons. I was shooting for about the same amount of compression that you were going for. What length and size rods are the olivers.
thanks
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:08 PM
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Just for the record



Running high compression and N20 = NOT SAFE.

When you want to run a big shot like that you're supposed to lower compression.
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:16 PM
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If you don't get too crazy with the power, a Dragonslayer crank should do you just fine.
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:22 PM
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Call Callies. They can sell you a complete rotating assy. and help you select parts. They are quite helpful and the prices are reasonable.

Rich Krause
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:29 PM
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hey richz28 thats a common misconseption my 9 second buick regal runs 12.5 ratio with a 250 and its fine, in fact most of the guys at my local track run upwards of 14 points off compression and run in the sevens with foggers.
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:31 PM
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Maybe on a Buick. It's not the smartest thing to do on an LT1...

High compression + too much N20 = trouble!

Other engines were made differently and can handle it...
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:37 PM
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I guess it is some type of misconception. I was also under the impression that you want low compression on ALL FI. But I heard from the majority here (injuneer) included that you can definately run a little high (like 12.0:1) compression without ANY problems. Maybe more will chime in here and set everything straight.
Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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With proper tuning high CR and nitrous are quite compatible. However, if you are building purpose built nitrous motor to run a HUGE nitrous shot, then some moderation of the CR is in order. By HUGE I mean in the 400+hp range.

Rich Krause



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