PaNaRaMuH

So, the old LT1 finally called it quits about a week ago. I've been wanting to do a 355 build for awhile now set up for NOS down the road and I've got a few questions....

Is it completely neccessary to rebalance the stock crank if I reused it and the rods because of different pistons?

What are a good set of pistons that aren't overpriced that would handle a 100-150 shot every now and then and last for quite some time?
I'm still debating a compression ratio to go after, but I'd like it to be a little more then stock.

How does NOS react with low vs higher compression?
At first look I came across these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pb...commendedparts
Has anyone had good luck with these?

Anything else recommended for the build?

This will be my first ever 355 build, so insight is much appreciated. Thanks.

RamAir95TA

With ANY performance build the rotating assembly MUST be balanced. You wouldn't buy new wheels and tires and put them on your car without balancing them, would you?

For such a mild shot of nitrous (100-150 is nothing and has been sprayed on STOCK engines) you won't need a special type or specific piston. A good forged piston is really all you need. I have JEs in my 383 and they work just fine.

Nitrous LOVES higher compression. It's the exact opposite of boost.

I have no experience with Probes but from what I understand they are a bottom of the barrel budget piston, but work fine.

Have you talked to a builder about what you're looking to do?

PaNaRaMuH

Well, its not really a performance build. I just want a reliable motor that will last up to DD abuse and handle a little abuse. I realize its always better to have a balanced rotating assembly vs not balanced I was just curious. I don't really want to run cheap cheap pistons. What pistons do you guys recommend and compression ratio? I called my local machine shop and they are going to charge me $350 for a block boil, bored .030 over, new cam bearings and freeze plugs. I'd like to do the assembly myself and use it as a learning experience, though. Anything else I should have the shop do while they have the block?

RamAir95TA

You're looking at 400+whp and you don't think it's a performance build? Hmm...gonna have to disagree with you on that one buddy.

For compression I would target at least 11.5:1 and 12.0:1 max. Don't be afraid to push the compression - a very common mistake done by many SBC-based engine shops nowadays.

I would also ask for an align-hone and have the shop check the deck for squareness and mill if necessary. It seems like reliability is of the utmost importance so you'll only want to do this once.

PaNaRaMuH

Hey Ram Air! Yeah, I have come to agree with you. I don't believe reliability is much of a want now as I just picked up a 2005 Ninja 636 so I will be using that mostly throughout summer. Will worry about winter when the time comes. But, I was searching around locally for already built 355's to see if anything good was out there and came across this...I need to know if it's a good deal or not. I personally think it is. This is what he emailed me about the motor..

Built 383 Stroker with PCM - $2,500
Compression: 8.5:1
It has a eagle forged rotating assembly. It has 4 bolt splayed main caps, msd optispark,56lb injectors,original LT4 intake off of a 96 grand sport,it has AFR 210cc heads with a full port and polish,1.6 rollertip rockers,comp cams custom grind cam w matching comp rollertip rockers,a 7 quart oil pan w kickouts,adjustable fuel pressure regulator,msd 8.8 plug wires.

After searching around for the specs for the cam I found them.

Cam specs are: adv dur 292 305
Dur @ .050: 242-254
Love sep: 114.0
Valve lift 549 580

Any input on what numbers this could run on the dyno would be appreciated. He was running the car with a Procharger D1 twin intercooler supercharger, but I only have plans on running it NA for now.

Thanks.

RamAir95TA

I personally HATE the idea of used shortblocks. The fact that you're relying on someone else's workmanship on the bottom end would drive me nuts. I prefer the approach of working with the builder on parts selection, assembly, and in addition, you have the option of returning to the builder with any problem - i.e. a warranty. You get none of that with a used shortblock.

Having said all of that I think that shortblock is a poor choice. The incredibly low compression coupled with that cam choice is not very N/A friendly. If I had to guess MAYBE 350-360whp N/A. Were you able to put some boost to it I'm sure it will make tremendous power but IMO it's not the engine for you.

For N/A there isn't much to smile about here.

PaNaRaMuH

Thanks for such the quick reply. He didn't build the block himself, he has receipts from the builder and the block has less then 1k miles on it. And yeah, I agree with the poor choice for NA. But, I was worried about reliability issues with boost. But since reliability isn't much of an issue now, I would be looking into doing a procharger later down the road. I just want the car to be a project, not trying to get it all done at once. Do you think the price is good for what's done to the block?

RamAir95TA

Receipts only tell you who built it - not HOW it was built. The mileage is something you have to take his word for but keep in mind 1,000 miles with boost is comparable to 5,000 miles N/A.

The price does seem good but again to get what you want you're going to have to invest more money into that engine which IMO would be better spent building a block closely with a reputable builder.

PaNaRaMuH

Thanks, yeah I understand what you mean. I guess I'm just thinking about everything that's done to the block as far as AFR heads and all. If I built a block I wouldn't have the finances to even consider doing heads. Guess I need to consider my options a little more.

bw_hunter

I guess you could look at the receipts and then call the builder. A builder with a good reputation isn't going to build a bad engine....at least not on purpose. Talk to him, see what all was done and then make your decision...

ACE1252

I think that compression is really going to be a problem unless you put a supercharger on it. Heck, stock is 10.4:1.

How did the engine call it quits? What is wrong with it?

PaNaRaMuH

Yeah, I could do that but he says it's got a blown head gasket and I figured it's just too much trouble for what it's worth.

Yeah, I agree with you on the compression part..I'd want something atleast 11.5:1 but I'd have to buy new pistons and blah. And who knows if anything else is wrong with it internally, he said he blew a head gasket so. My old LT1 spun rod bearing after I installed my CC503.

I'm currently looking at 2 complete wrecked vehicles for cheap. 1 is a 1995 z28 with 98,xxx miles on it that hit a tree. Drivetrain is good. T56 6-speed car. The other is also a 1995 z28, Newer LT1 with a Paxton Supercharger, Jegs 700R4. He says he rode the wall at the strip, and I believe it. Body looks roughhhh.

RamAir95TA

Not sure what kind of hurry you are in but judging by the fact that you're continuing to look at used stuff you seem to be in haste mode.

Have you tried calling a builder and seeing what they recommend? A good builder can build you a shortblock in a week or two - far shorter than it would take for you to straighten out someone else's mistakes.

Also, where are you located?

RUDEDOG

Where is this 383 for sale located? That has to be a typo. The heads are worth that.

KW Baraka

Something ain't right. $2500 for a forged longblock that's topped with 210cc AFR heads?

Hell....the heads by themselves are about $2500.

Just sayin......but my guess is that the engine doesn't exist as advertised......or the build is all f'ed up.

KW