LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

355 build ????

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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 10:55 PM
  #1  
mycarisfasterthanyours's Avatar
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From: Prescott Valley, AZ
355 build ????

I took the engine apart and rod #3 bearing was spun like crazy. I have to replace the crank, but my buddy has the stock one he took out of his car for his 383 so that is not a problem. I plan on using the stock crank, scat forged I beams, and some KB hyperuetectics. I will be shooting for a CR of about 11.5. My questions are:

1. Should I use a 6" rod, what are benefits and disavantages.
2. What should be done to be able to spin it to 6600 or so without worrying too much.

Keep in mind I am a college student, so exotic parts aren't an option, just looking for the stoutest bottom end possible on a budget.
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 05:30 AM
  #2  
94F1Z28's Avatar
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From: Gordonsville,New Brunswick,Canada
Well the 6" rod will offer a little broader power curve but if you are on a budget i wouldn't spend the money there i would get a set of forged pistons instead of the hyperuetectic pistons,and i would use ARP main studs and if 6600rpm is all you want then i would stick with the stock rods if you have not already purchased the scat rods and get a really good balance job and use a fluiddamper.Also get a very high quality oil pump.
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 02:43 PM
  #3  
mycarisfasterthanyours's Avatar
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From: Prescott Valley, AZ
I would use the stock rods, but with the way the bearing and crank look, I am sure the rod is stretched quite a bit. I know they can be recondioned, but I believe it is like $90 and all I would have are stock rods (only slightly weaker do to the reconditioning). I plan on using a good oil pump and having everything balanced. I don't plan on using nitrous anytime soon, so I think forged pistons might be an overkill, but that is what I asked for. More opinions please.
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 03:18 PM
  #4  
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The cheapest way out, on an N/A engine is the stock crank radiused and polished, stock rods and a set of hyper pistons. Those components will all hold up to 500HP with no problem. You only need a forged piston in a power adder motor, IMHO. The stock rods won't break until 600-650HP. I would have the rods all checked for condition, and if you have one that is stretched or damaged, a used one should cost next to nothing... I think I still have my stock rods in the garage. You could argue all day whether the 6" rod is better than the 5.7" rod (do a "search" on Advanced Tech for some interesting discussions), but in the end, you will not see the difference, again IMHO.

Stock oil pump is also fine... get it "blueprinted".... e.g. polish the burrs off, check the clearances. Then tack weld the pickup on. If you are looking at RPM above 6K, put the "white" spring in it.

Put your money into heads and cam... that will produce more power than 6" rods....
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