OPies57

i have another post and it sais what happened to my engine and now im forced to do a 383 or a 355 i want high hp and torque but wouldnt mind revving to 7500 and making the same power its gonna be forged and proffessionally built i have the valvetrain from my previous (in my sig) and im gonna have the heads ported i wanna use the same cam if its not bent or screw up (cc306) what power can i look to get with ported heads the cam ported manifold 58mm tb and 36 lbs injectors and anyother supporting mods people think i need money isnt really a big deal but dont wanna spend like retared amounts and the bottom end im not worried about going mostly eagle 4340 stuff. i wanna get around 450whp that feasible?

coolraptor

Price wise a 383 wont cost hardly anymore than a 355 as far as parts are concerned. You will also get a little extra torque out of the bigger displacement.
If you dont do the clearancing work yourself you will have some money in paying a shop to do it for you.
The Eagle stuff is pretty decent, and not as expensive as some. I run a forged eagle crank, h-beam rods, etc etc.
450hp to the wheels might be easier to get with aftermarket ported heads like trickflow, afr, and the like but i know several people on here have achieved it with stock castings iam sure.
You may want to consider getting 4bolt mains installed on your block if you plan on revving it that high. Keep in mind the stock pcm wont handle over 7200rpms if i remember right-so you would need an aftermarket engine management deal...which would raise the dollar figure quite a bit.

For 450hp at the wheels, i'd just guess and say you'd need 383cui, ported aftermarket heads, bigger cam or maybe a solid roller setup, GOOD TUNE, perhaps bigger injectors (i run 42lb/hr). Iam sure im missing some stuff but thats just a rough guess. Iam by no means an expert on engine building here

Also dont forget the tranny rebuild if your running an auto, better clutch if a manual, and a replacement for that 10bolt your going to destroy

Goodluck! Maybe some other people will post back with some more ideas for ya

WS6T3RROR

If you're buying a forged rotating assembly anyways do 383 every time you will in no way regret it.

If I had it to do over again I would have done a 383. I went 355 because I got cut the deal of the century on the parts I needed to do it. Even with that if i had to make that choice again it would have been a 383 even with the greater expense.

tomcowle

I would normally say 383, however since your using a factory head go with the 355 utilizing a more custom cam, some ported cylinder heads and a lighter rotating assembly. There are a ton of flying 355" in here versus the amount of 383's that seem to not run up to potential.

my humble opinion

OPies57

everything is gonna be more or less discounted i work at a speed shop so all the machining and parts and labor will be cheaper i cant do aftermarket heads right now and i dont plan on revving past 7200 unless you guys think its necessary i didnt think you could rev a 383 that high maybe 7 grand would be cool and will 36lb injectors be good enough?

slomarao

Reving a 383 to 7 grand will produce the power you want. But a 383 at 7k rpms is going to need lots of airflow.
If your not going to send out your heads again I would stick to a 355. Like stated, a 355 with factory castings will run and will run well.

If you can fork up the cash for some tfs's the 383 will be more in order. I think your going to need aftermarket heads and a 383 cubic inch bottom end to hit 450/450 rwm tho.
AI's 200 cc heads may do it, along with LE3's. BUt i wouldnt count on it. A safer bet would be tfs's or AFR's, a good ported intake, and a monoblade or 58mm tb.

WS6T3RROR

Build the larger engine. Most of the people on here couldnt build a fast car from front to back if thier life depended on it. There are just as many 355's that perform like **** as there are 383's. You will be happier with the larger short block, heads and cams can be changed from now on. Spend the money on a crank rods and pistons one time, change everything else after that to your liking. A ported factory head will feed a 383 to 7k with the right parts and porter. It just takes 10-15* more cam than most people run. Its apparent on a 383 because guys stick with popular cams which are good for a stock cube motor in that range, and for whatever reason they expect similar revs out of a much larger engine.

For a 383 in that rev range i'd be looking in the 240-245* range for intake.

This is a totally different speech on cams than I give if you tell me its your only transportation and you drive 300 miles a week instead of I want 450hp. The engine size logic stays the same.

slomarao

How much money do you plan on spending this project? I know that you say in the first three sentences that its not a big deal but it will be shortly after you start to add things up.

I was just looking at doing the same thing: Forged 383/385
Shortblock. 3k (machine costs, piston, rods, crank,)
Topend. 4k (le3's, shaftmount rockers, lifters, monoblade,pushrods, etc)
Fuel/ Misc.1k (32lb injectors, Fpr, 255 intank, mallory ign., scanmaster)
Rearend/trans. 3k (12/9 bolt, t56 rebuild, mcloed single disk clutch,)

I already have bolton's and basic suspension stuff. But the list adds up quick.

OPies57

full engine is costing me 4500 fully forged and balanced 383 with ported heads manifold 58mm tb 36lbs injectors dual roller timing chain and a custom grind cam

MEAN LT1

Agreed, I see more impressive 355's running around here than I do strokers. Its sad but true, the next motor going in my car will be a 355SR.

OPies57

ok i have a question now all the cast stuff sais good to 500 hp but if people are running heads/cam/intake making over 400whp on the stock bottom end and spraying their motors on top of that. doesnt that make over 500 hp, and if i dont go forged will i still be able to run heads cam and nitrous and not have an issue like alot of other lt1 cars? money wasnt really an issue till i put it into perspective

WS6T3RROR

You'll want more from it, we always do. With any thought of nitrous I would build it with splayed 4 bolt main and forged everything because I know I cant help but be greedy just like everybody else.

Build something you can beat on for the next dozen years. Do the job one time, correctly. If you have a part of the rotating assembly fail, you risk every part in the engine, think of it as insurance.

OPies57

i know im going to want more from it naturally but i was putting things into perspective and with time right now i have a 4bolt main lt1 and ill do a stock rebuild with nice bearings and a cam and ported heads and a nice fuel system and injectors and on the side ill build up a nice 383 forged stroker motor that i wont have to dish out all the money at once also ill be able to put afrs on it or another nice aftermarket head i think right now im making the right choice not exactly the choice i want to make but i think in time ill have the motor i want and *** rape everything till then i liked the way my old motor ran revving to 6500 and kicking pretty much everythings *** thats not a race car.

oh and you didnt really answer the question lol

slomarao

if your going to hit it with juice make sure you get a quality piston. One with the rings gapped for n2o. Otherwise your new motor will be either limited to a 150 shot or you ll pop a piston.

OPies57

yea i wasnt planning on hitting it with over a 150 shot i know getting the rings filled for n2o would help but do i need it i dont plan on spraying over 150 only cause im looking at a cast 383 long block just for now