96LT1TX

ok, I got the car running, the radiator may still require a little more air bled out of the system... but when I drove it home it got above 210.... I dont think it should be running that hot should it? the fans are installed I thought... could it be the spilled coolant burning off the engine bay? I just dont like seeing steam out my hood...

any advice helpful! and a 160 deg t-stat should be here today, but wont do me any good w/out a reprogram... where can I get that done? anywhere around town?

ZDriver96

bleed it more...

did u install the headers at the same time?

does it only get up to 210 in traffic or on the highway?

you'll have to get a hypertech or someone with tunercat and the right cable to do it for u. or just install an SLP manula fan switch

96LT1TX

only things installed this time were new timing chain set (sprockets, chain), the cam (xe 230/236 112 lsa), comp r lifters, and everything else was pre-installed... Im sure its just the damn radiator needing more bleeding... damn thing is annoying. it gets to 210 in traffic, on the way home (only time ive driven it around).

Larnach

It should not be running that hot under any condition. I didn't even bleed my cooling system and I have never had the needle go past the first mark after I did my heads and cam.

Check your water pump and cooling line routing.

96LT1TX

could not installing the air duct under the car that pushes air onto the radiator cause it to run hot? I am still trying to figure it out... drove it home again, and it was sitting at 210 in traffic again. I keep topping off the radiator fluid, but I thought it topped out... guess not? Ill check the tubing tomorrow make sure we did it right... pretty sure it is though

MentalCaseOne

When I change my coolant I alway make a point to open the bleeder screws as I am filling up with new coolant. The first time I did it I foung out my car took another gallon of additional coolant... then I heat cycle it it once and bleed again...

I did it two days ago and it did work fine. For some reason if I dont open the bleeeder screws when I am filling the radiator up it only takes about 3/4 gallon of coolant... can you imagine how many heat/cold cycles I had to go each time to fill her up completely??


The iar dam creates a high air pressure infront of the radiator and a low (suction?) air presure behind the radiator... thats how the air flows accross the radiator (gets sucked in)

I am positive if I remove my air dam my car will stay hot most of the time (till the fans kick in).


Marvin

llafro

If you mean the black plastic/rubber thing that hangs down below the radiator support and scrapes on everything whe driving, YES. The air dam as it's called is what makes air flow over the radiator.

If your computer has not been reprogrammed, the fans will come on at a fairly high temperature (about 215 or so). Leave the car idling and see where the temps go. Keep a close eye on it, though.

Be sure to check the bleeding of the coolant. Sometimes it can be a pain to get the air out of the system.

Another thing to check is valve lash. If you have the rockers set too tight, the car will run hot. I had a car like that.

BRAD

gb95zconv

The engine will run hot without the airdamn....put it back on.

cef97ws6

If you still have stock tuning your stop and go temp will most likely be around 210, totally normal unless AC is on then it might be slightly cooler because the fans operate on low. But once you are on the highway you should see a drop to around 190-195 until you add a 160stat.