1995 Z28 special edition??????
1995 Z28 special edition??????
theres a wrecked z28 with a good running LT1 in it. The owner says its all forged and a special edition LT1 from the dealer. Now the cars that 3color charmealon(sp) color. He also stated with headers, CAI and a lil programing he tears up stock LS1's....
Sooooo is he full of it... Or did they put beafed up motors in these Z28'S?????
Sooooo is he full of it... Or did they put beafed up motors in these Z28'S?????
So thats the only reason I thought he might be right.. he is the 2nd owner of the car... so im just hoping someone can give me a definite answer....
The motor could very well have forged internals, but it didn't roll out of the factory that way. There are multiple versions of the LT motor. LT1s could be had with 2 and 4 bolt mains, but i think that was the main differences. After that you get into the LT4 w/ different heads intake and cam and mainfolds, and the LT5 with DOHC and a new intake. Never heard of forged internals in an LT1 and am pretty confident that neither of the others had them either.
Only cars I that I know of with factory forged internals off the top of my head are the TT Supras, and 03/04 Cobras. Not saying there aren't more though, but those cars are known for having forged internals, I think if there was such an LT motor it would be known.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong here.
Only cars I that I know of with factory forged internals off the top of my head are the TT Supras, and 03/04 Cobras. Not saying there aren't more though, but those cars are known for having forged internals, I think if there was such an LT motor it would be known.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong here.
The motor could very well have forged internals, but it didn't roll out of the factory that way. There are multiple versions of the LT motor. LT1s could be had with 2 and 4 bolt mains, but i think that was the main differences. After that you get into the LT4 w/ different heads intake and cam and mainfolds, and the LT5 with DOHC and a new intake. Never heard of forged internals in an LT1 and am pretty confident that neither of the others had them either.
Only cars I that I know of with factory forged internals off the top of my head are the TT Supras, and 03/04 Cobras. Not saying there aren't more though, but those cars are known for having forged internals, I think if there was such an LT motor it would be known.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong here.
Only cars I that I know of with factory forged internals off the top of my head are the TT Supras, and 03/04 Cobras. Not saying there aren't more though, but those cars are known for having forged internals, I think if there was such an LT motor it would be known.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong here.
The whole forged mentioning kinda threw up a red flag when he said. I was couldnt call him a liar because I wasnt 100% myself. I asked if there were any internal mods and he told me that. One last thing.... He might not know if its been rebuilt by the previous owner. Is there any "tell" that I could look for to see if its been apart? I dont wanna ask to rip it apart, and I dont want to buy it if its stock...so I kinda in a weird situation...
I guess you could take a close look at the motor in the daylight. Look for things like new gaskets, the condition of the bolts, if the block looks cleanish, etc. Things that would be common in a tear-down/rebuild.
I think the only "special edition" Camaro in '95 was a Paxton one. But it was supercharged. I don't know much about it...
Dupont Chromalusion/Chrome Illusion paint was never a factory color though if that is what it is. If it is Mystic Teal and just looks blue or blue-green, then that is a factory color.
Dupont Chromalusion/Chrome Illusion paint was never a factory color though if that is what it is. If it is Mystic Teal and just looks blue or blue-green, then that is a factory color.
Yeah i called him and told him to find/show me was was all done to the motor; and to find the papers saying that it has forged internals... Well after finding the dealer papers he couldnt find anything regarding the motor other than it saying 350 LT1 5.7 liter...... I guess he thought i had no clue about motors and thought he could feed me BS to buy the motor... Now i wanta see those LS1's he was "tearing up" with a stock LT1 w/ headers and a CAI
well actually i 4got to ask him if those LS1's were towing anything...
well actually i 4got to ask him if those LS1's were towing anything...
That deal doesn't sound right. Nothing to back up the forged claim.
Still, you raise a good question. How can you check for a forged crank without looking inside the motor? That is an interesting challenge. I wonder if the hardness of a forged crank is enough different from factory cast iron that you could pull the balancer, do a hardness test (scratch test with the right materials?) on the end of the snout, and tell that way? If that won't work, I'm pretty sure you could polish a spot on the snout end, etch it, and use a pocket microscope to look at the grain pattern of the metal. Pretty far out, I know, but it would be a handy trick.
I know there are some metallurgists on this site, maybe one of them will come across this and enlighten us. I only know enough to be dangerous, but I do remember that the grain of nodular iron is visibly different from forged steel. If it is a really sweet deal and you really want to know, I bet there is a way to find out if you can get the balancer and hub off. FWIW.
Still, you raise a good question. How can you check for a forged crank without looking inside the motor? That is an interesting challenge. I wonder if the hardness of a forged crank is enough different from factory cast iron that you could pull the balancer, do a hardness test (scratch test with the right materials?) on the end of the snout, and tell that way? If that won't work, I'm pretty sure you could polish a spot on the snout end, etch it, and use a pocket microscope to look at the grain pattern of the metal. Pretty far out, I know, but it would be a handy trick.
I know there are some metallurgists on this site, maybe one of them will come across this and enlighten us. I only know enough to be dangerous, but I do remember that the grain of nodular iron is visibly different from forged steel. If it is a really sweet deal and you really want to know, I bet there is a way to find out if you can get the balancer and hub off. FWIW.
Last edited by JP95ZM6; Jan 18, 2007 at 12:14 AM. Reason: Added hub removal, too.
That deal doesn't sound right. Nothing to back up the forged claim.
Still, you raise a good question. How can you check for a forged crank without looking inside the motor? That is an interesting challenge. I wonder if the hardness of a forged crank is enough different from factory cast iron that you could pull the balancer, do a hardness test (scratch test with the right materials?) on the end of the snout, and tell that way? If that won't work, I'm pretty sure you could polish a spot on the snout end, etch it, and use a pocket microscope to look at the grain pattern of the metal. Pretty far out, I know, but it would be a handy trick.
I know there are some metallurgists on this site, maybe one of them will come across this and enlighten us. I only know enough to be dangerous, but I do remember that the grain of nodular iron is visibly different from forged steel. If it is a really sweet deal and you really want to know, I bet there is a way to find out if you can get the balancer and hub off. FWIW.
Still, you raise a good question. How can you check for a forged crank without looking inside the motor? That is an interesting challenge. I wonder if the hardness of a forged crank is enough different from factory cast iron that you could pull the balancer, do a hardness test (scratch test with the right materials?) on the end of the snout, and tell that way? If that won't work, I'm pretty sure you could polish a spot on the snout end, etch it, and use a pocket microscope to look at the grain pattern of the metal. Pretty far out, I know, but it would be a handy trick.
I know there are some metallurgists on this site, maybe one of them will come across this and enlighten us. I only know enough to be dangerous, but I do remember that the grain of nodular iron is visibly different from forged steel. If it is a really sweet deal and you really want to know, I bet there is a way to find out if you can get the balancer and hub off. FWIW.
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