Scan tool suppliers like Autoxray have a special cable used with their OBD-I scanner to solve the situation. You can also adapt a regular 12 pin scanner cable like this and it will work.

 

The question is, was your car originally sold as new in California? The RPO code will tell you if it came with the California or Federal emissions package from the factory. Another possibility is that the system was modified by a previous owner (if you are not).

RPO
NA5=Federal
NB6=California

 

Excellent!!! You ROCK!

Shall do tomorrow evening after work.

 

wheres the RPO code, I'll take a look. Thanks, this is useful information.

 

On a 1995, you should find a sticker inside the glove box.

 

My $4.99 'Scanner' appears to have only the 'A' and 'B' terminal, making it basically a paperclip with a really big handle. Thus, I can't match the pins as shown in the picture.

I'm going to look around and see if I can find an OBDI scanner that I can order off the net that comes with the right adapter. Holy Cripes the car's going to sit a week before I even order parts!!! I'll probably go ahead and order the Opti and Water Pump. And I suppose there's no Trouble Code for the Clutch or the Brakes being down to the Rivets either... I guess I may as well get all those items on the way...

Now I'm starting to think it's hiding some deep dark secret though... Geez, for $150, the scanner I just bought should plug into my **** and read MY trouble codes!!!

Paul 'X'

 

Autoxray has the OBDI scan tool and the proper cable. Check their site for info. Or check Ebay for scan tools.

 

I went to Autoxray's site but didn't see anything for OBDI for less than $150!!! I know you won't get an OBDII scanner for less than $150, but since when does an OBDI tool cost more than $50? Am I missing something?

For $200 I can buy a laptop and software!!!

Haven't checked ebay yet...

Paul 'X'

 

As you found out, the $4.99 thing won't work and you have to pay real money if you want to be able to read codes and monitor sensors on your engine. That's just the way it is.

 

All I really want are the codes. I don't need to monitor sensors (yet) and could get by at least for now with just the codes. I was always able to diagnose problems with the TPI motors with just the codes and the accompanying code explanations and troubleshooting diagrams in the service manual.

However, since next summer I'll be doing some major power upgrades, probably a mixture of minor head and cam plus a Vortec Supercharger, I should probably go ahead and invest in a laptop and appropriate tuning software if it's not more than say double what the useful scanner would cost. I can get a good used laptop very cheap from a buddy who buys them and repairs them on the side. Don't know what software will do everything I need... LT1 Edit comes to mind?

Thanks for all the help!

 

OK, I dropped $225 for an Autoxray OBDI scanner and expedited shipping. I ordered my opti from Jason today, and will probably get my water pump from Autozone tomorrow. Plugs and Wires sometime before the weekend too. Should have some mysteries solved by the weekend.

Next week I'll be ordering PowerSlot Rotors and Hawk Pads, and the week after that McLeod Dual Friction clutch. If the paycheck pans out, also SLP Headers and Cat-Back.

The dust is collecting on it.

 

Got my scanner tonight. Appears to be a high quality unit. Should get some answers tomorrow. Also have to drag the car down to the lower level of the drive so I can work on it on the asphalt (and mow the lawn)... Got the Opti and Water Pump ordered, as well as plugs and wires on the way.

Chose my favorite pads and rotors and almost ordered them, then took the dog to the vet and spent $700 for some surgery that we had been putting off, so brakes have to wait till payday... Ol' Baxter has probably saved my life more times than I would ever admit, so it's money well spent...

Probably be a month before I get the brakes and clutch in it, but at least I'll have it running soon, unless the codes show me that I have more problems than I am currently aware of!!!

 

I got out the scanner today, read the instructions, hooked it up, scanned the PCM, and get this: No Codes!!! I know this can't possibly be true, because since I've owned the car, tbe battery has never been dead, has never been disconnected, and has never been to a shop for service. (I do my own...) I also know that my SES light has been on several times for an intermittent code.

I tend to drive pretty aggressively, and rarely maintain one speed for any amount of time. However, on the rare occasion that I do, after about 2 or 3 minutes the SES light will come on. If I then realize what I'm doing and give it hell like usual, the light goes out. I have always taken this to mean that the car disapproves of lackluster driving habits, but it never ran poorly while the SES light was on, and the light always went out... But the moral of the story is... There should be at least ONE code in there...

Paul 'X'

 

Here's the low down:

A4 California-emissions '95s had dual cats.

M6 California-emissions '95s had single cat.

I have one of these M6 California-emissions '95s, originally built and sold for use in California, with a single cat. All '95 M6's I've run into in this state are single cat, and all '95 A4s I've run into in this state are dual cat. Just interesting trivia

However, I've never seen an OBD II '95 LT1 car.

 

So you are saying that you have RPO NB6, single cat M6, yes? Info to file in the data banks. Guess I have not seen the question asked in such a way to segregate A4s from M6s.