1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
#31
#32
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
Sounds like you bought a $30 scanner that's supposed to flash the codes on the SES light. That only works on 1993, which can also be done with a paperclip.
Need a real OBD-1 scanner, a combo OBD-1/OBD-2 scanner (Equus and Innova brands have a corrupt data base for the LT1), or free Scan9495 software + buy a cable for the 16-pin connector on your 95.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/
Need a real OBD-1 scanner, a combo OBD-1/OBD-2 scanner (Equus and Innova brands have a corrupt data base for the LT1), or free Scan9495 software + buy a cable for the 16-pin connector on your 95.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/
#33
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
Suppose I do. Will look into a proper code reader. It's booked in to my trusted shop on the 13th. If I resolve the issue before then, armed with a new scanner; I'll update. If it gets to the shop first; I'll update.
Thanks
Thanks
#34
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
Excited I found this thread, as I am now working on all the vacuum, heater, etc. lines. This thread and shoebox's pictures have been very helpful but I still have some questions.
But first, how can I donate some money to this site? I'm happy to send some money to keep this going as it has saved me hours of time and trouble. I saw a donate button on shoebox's site. Is that the best thing to do?
So here's my questions. I know I need a Tee from the throttle body to the return line of the radiator hose. Anyone know the sizes I need?
My steam line comes up from the back of the block and ends right by a similar size fitting on the throttle body. See picture. Does the steam line feed into the TB with a rubber Tee?
Coming from my evaporator solenoid I need to go to my charcoal canister which I have mounted behind the left front fender. I have a steel line going back to the tank, and I made that connection with a rubber fuel line. I assume I can just run a section of vacuum line from the solenoid all the way to the canister, but the charcoal canister pictures I've seen don't really tell me exactly what to hook up. Is it the purge line that goes to the solenoid? Then it looks like a Tee goes from the top of the control valve back into the line that comes from the tank to the canister, correct? I have all the parts but I can't find anything that looks like a Tee that would fit there.
Here's a few pictures of hoses I don't know where they go. Any help would be appreciated.
rubber hose with 4 connections
hose with metal end
long curved section and long el
32 inch vacuum line with rubber connections at each end
steam line that ends near similar fitting on throttle body
But first, how can I donate some money to this site? I'm happy to send some money to keep this going as it has saved me hours of time and trouble. I saw a donate button on shoebox's site. Is that the best thing to do?
So here's my questions. I know I need a Tee from the throttle body to the return line of the radiator hose. Anyone know the sizes I need?
My steam line comes up from the back of the block and ends right by a similar size fitting on the throttle body. See picture. Does the steam line feed into the TB with a rubber Tee?
Coming from my evaporator solenoid I need to go to my charcoal canister which I have mounted behind the left front fender. I have a steel line going back to the tank, and I made that connection with a rubber fuel line. I assume I can just run a section of vacuum line from the solenoid all the way to the canister, but the charcoal canister pictures I've seen don't really tell me exactly what to hook up. Is it the purge line that goes to the solenoid? Then it looks like a Tee goes from the top of the control valve back into the line that comes from the tank to the canister, correct? I have all the parts but I can't find anything that looks like a Tee that would fit there.
Here's a few pictures of hoses I don't know where they go. Any help would be appreciated.
rubber hose with 4 connections
hose with metal end
long curved section and long el
32 inch vacuum line with rubber connections at each end
steam line that ends near similar fitting on throttle body
#35
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
The site is owned by a large commercial entity, Internet Brands. They own a multitude of automotive forums. They get enough from the advertising, they don’t need your contribution. The are generous enough to send the Administrator an Amazon gift card at Christmas. Unfortunately people supposedly have drifted off the Facebook as an alternative. But some of the Facebook stuff I've looked at is rife with bad info. YouTube isn’t much better.
Support (Rob) Shoebox, assuming the button still works.
The problem with this site developed back in 2010 when the 5th Gen Camaro reestablished Camaro production. It was privately owned at that time, and the owners never put serious development into attracting 5th (and later 6th) Gen owners. I pushed to restructure the forums to provide a site that would attract new Camaro owners, but it was sort of like pi$$ing into the wind. There were also some hot heads in “The Lounge” who didn’t like the site’s PG13 rules. They went over to LS1tech. com, and siphoned off a lot of our members.
I do this because I enjoy sharing my knowledge and solving problems. I'm a retired Licensed Professional (Mechanical) Engineer. I also do it at a site called Firebird Nation, and at ltxtech. Firebird Nation is still very active, because of the huge interest in restoration - my first Firebird was a1968, bought new for my (now-ex) wife, at the time I had a 1966 GTO 389 Tri-Power.
Support (Rob) Shoebox, assuming the button still works.
The problem with this site developed back in 2010 when the 5th Gen Camaro reestablished Camaro production. It was privately owned at that time, and the owners never put serious development into attracting 5th (and later 6th) Gen owners. I pushed to restructure the forums to provide a site that would attract new Camaro owners, but it was sort of like pi$$ing into the wind. There were also some hot heads in “The Lounge” who didn’t like the site’s PG13 rules. They went over to LS1tech. com, and siphoned off a lot of our members.
I do this because I enjoy sharing my knowledge and solving problems. I'm a retired Licensed Professional (Mechanical) Engineer. I also do it at a site called Firebird Nation, and at ltxtech. Firebird Nation is still very active, because of the huge interest in restoration - my first Firebird was a1968, bought new for my (now-ex) wife, at the time I had a 1966 GTO 389 Tri-Power.
#36
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
The diagram near the top of this thread is for 93/94. Shoebox also has 95-97 that shows the steam pipe connection (albeit not very clearly) to the bottom plate of the throttle body.
http://shbox.com/1/95-97_hoses.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg
I'll try to follow up on some of the other items tomorrow. There should be a vacuum line (at least those related to emissions) diagram on the radiator top cover panel.
http://shbox.com/1/95-97_hoses.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg
I'll try to follow up on some of the other items tomorrow. There should be a vacuum line (at least those related to emissions) diagram on the radiator top cover panel.
#37
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
Bought the Tee from site Shoebox recommended. Going to run the steam line output from TB to the return hose of radiator. Looks to me like I just use a very short EL to connect steam line to other side of throttle body. The connectors are about an inch apart.
It's always something with a custom build. My AC unit has a vacuum-controlled valve that goes in the return line, which on LT1 is 3/4". My valve is 5/8 so I ordered some adapters. I figure I don't need the stock flow restrictor since the valve will be shut when heater isn't on plus it is being reduced to 5/8.
My goal of getting it started by end of month is slipping a little, but still might make it.
Thanks for the explanation of your involvement on the site. Your help is very appreciated. I just made a donation to Rob's site.
Walt
It's always something with a custom build. My AC unit has a vacuum-controlled valve that goes in the return line, which on LT1 is 3/4". My valve is 5/8 so I ordered some adapters. I figure I don't need the stock flow restrictor since the valve will be shut when heater isn't on plus it is being reduced to 5/8.
My goal of getting it started by end of month is slipping a little, but still might make it.
Thanks for the explanation of your involvement on the site. Your help is very appreciated. I just made a donation to Rob's site.
Walt
#38
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
If you run the steam line into the return line with a “tee”, you are done with the steam line. You don’t have to hook anything up to the BOTTOM PLATE on the throttle body. Just put vacuum caps on the two connection to give it a finished look, and keep critters out. The coolant is connected through the bottom of the throttle body to prevent “icing” of the blades. That doesn’t seem to be a problem unless you live north of the Arctic Circle. Everybody “bypasses” the coolant, and ends up picking up about 6 HP. Dyno proven:
Modifications #8
This the throttle body that was installed on my 94. While the throttle body itself is aftermarket (Holley), the BOTTOM PLATE is transferred from my stock 94 throttle body:
https://www.camaroz28.com/g/picture/13793478
Modifications #8
This the throttle body that was installed on my 94. While the throttle body itself is aftermarket (Holley), the BOTTOM PLATE is transferred from my stock 94 throttle body:
https://www.camaroz28.com/g/picture/13793478
#39
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
Bought the Tee from site Shoebox recommended. Going to run the steam line output from TB to the return hose of radiator. Looks to me like I just use a very short EL to connect steam line to other side of throttle body. The connectors are about an inch apart.
It's always something with a custom build. My AC unit has a vacuum-controlled valve that goes in the return line, which on LT1 is 3/4". My valve is 5/8 so I ordered some adapters. I figure I don't need the stock flow restrictor since the valve will be shut when heater isn't on plus it is being reduced to 5/8.
My goal of getting it started by end of month is slipping a little, but still might make it.
Thanks for the explanation of your involvement on the site. Your help is very appreciated. I just made a donation to Rob's site.
Walt
It's always something with a custom build. My AC unit has a vacuum-controlled valve that goes in the return line, which on LT1 is 3/4". My valve is 5/8 so I ordered some adapters. I figure I don't need the stock flow restrictor since the valve will be shut when heater isn't on plus it is being reduced to 5/8.
My goal of getting it started by end of month is slipping a little, but still might make it.
Thanks for the explanation of your involvement on the site. Your help is very appreciated. I just made a donation to Rob's site.
Walt
#42
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
Any idea what this connector is for? I labeled it "Distributor" but I see no place to put this. The service manual has been no help. It's the one connecter I can't find a home for on the engine harness. Other than that I have all the vacuum, fuel, wires etc. hoses and lines connected.
#43
Re: 1995 LT1 engine cooling line routing?
That’s the Opti (distributor) connector.
Did your new Opti come with a permanently attached harness? Or a new “short” harness? If so, it plugged directly into the gray connector on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold. The original factory Opti did not have a permanently attached harness. So the “short” harness filled the gap between the gray connector and the body of the Opti.
The factory manual wouldn’t cover the permanently attached aftermarket design.
Did your new Opti come with a permanently attached harness? Or a new “short” harness? If so, it plugged directly into the gray connector on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold. The original factory Opti did not have a permanently attached harness. So the “short” harness filled the gap between the gray connector and the body of the Opti.
The factory manual wouldn’t cover the permanently attached aftermarket design.
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