You may find it hard to believe but I have a lot of witnesses and a time slip that say so. I was at a gathering from another board, www.easternfbody.com @ MIR (Maryland Internation Raceway) I ran cosistantly through the bracket races that day in the 13.5 range (while hotlapping) @ 103 mph the first run after a long cool down was the 13.3, weather was cool and great for racing, I think someone mentioned being right at sealevel. There are a lot of respected guys on this board that know me and saw it, they were as surprised as you are! I took as much weight out as I could and still drove it to the track, most of the interior was stripped, everything behinde the front seats was out of it.

 

You really cannot have that as a proof unless you ripped all the interior out of the car right after your first run, you ran the SAME day under SAME conditions especially since your 60' time was different! You could have ran your first day when it was 95 degrees with the engine Entirely hot, then the second time you could have run at 65 degrees on a barely warm engine. That alone would make your car run faster. Just remember your cars times could swing a few tenths over the racing season if youre a good driver! I am not saying that the weight didnt help, but i mean 3 tenths? What was left on the car?

anyways Headers,gears,!cat,computer tune, and a nice set of tires and i wouldnt see why not unless there are underlying problems to the car.

 

The general rule is usually about a tenth per 100 lbs of weight removal.

 

I have a 95' Z A4 T-top fully loaded w/leather. With 3000rpm Vig. stall, 3.42 rear out of a 6spd, K&N CAI,!cat,FM catback. About 2 months ago I was running 13.3-13.5 on street tires with a crappy 60ft and a dying fuel pump. That's all the way down to the spare and jack. I've now swapped in a Walbro 255lph pump. I'm fairly certain that with our current cool weather and my new found fuel pressure I could almost hit 12's. I have Jet Hot LT's that have been sitting next to me for half a year that I have yet to install. Once that happens if I'm not touching 12.8's(or better) with DR's I'm selling the car .

 

I ran a 12.5 with shorty headers, cut-out, msd ignition & wires, et streets, hypertech, and a zex100 shot with timing retard 2 degrees, and that is with a stock 2.73 gear didn't cost me much money at all

 

theres a easy fix for that. and i never found a car it didnt work on. i had a buddy get a 4500 stall and it was a great daily driver and great at the track

 

Just did it this year with all the stuff in my sig. No fancy headers, no fancy converter,and drivability is like stock. A set of Motive 3.42's and upped the shift points to 6000 did it (along with removal of back seats/spare/jack).

 

one word gents...........gearing