http://bellsouthpwp.net/x/x/xxsaint69x/DS2.JPG
http://bellsouthpwp.net/x/x/xxsaint69x/DS.JPG


What do you guys think?
Thanks
Marcin

 

Moser 12 bolt right? Did you shorten the driveshaft at all? I was told that aslong as it doesnt bottom out on the output shaft of the tranny it should be ok.

How did the stock steel fit?

 

here is what i did.



I had a aluminum and steel shafts, there were both same lenght.

http://bellsouthpwp.net/x/x/xxsaint69x/stocks.JPG


as u can see the steel ds is longer, but the yoke is shorter so it ends up being same lenght as the ls1 shaft.

well i had the Steel DS shortend 1inch, but i had a problem with it vibrating.

Right now i am running a stock LS1 shaft with the #447 ujoint.
I cant get the yoke to bottom out by just bouncing the back.
What i think i might do is put the LT1 yoke on the LS1 shaft so it wont bottom out on the tranny. Will that work? Or maybe can i just cut off 1inch of the ls1 yoke?

 

How does the stock steel compare to the LS1 now that its cut an inch?

 

ttt

 

You can't measure DS clearance by looking at a picture. You need to have the car sitting with the rear wheels loaded and the body in its normal position. Then pull the straps off the rear u-joint. slide the DS forward until it bottoms out on the tranny... could be the front of the slip tube hitting the seal, or could be the other end of the tube bottoming out on the end of the output shaft. Measure how far the rear u-joint moved forward from where it normally sits in the pinion yoke. That is the available clearance. At least 1/2" required, preferably more as HP goes up.

 

here is another question...am i better of using a longer YOKe or the shorter one?
http://bellsouthpwp.net/x/x/xxsaint69x/stocks.JPG

 

The aluminum ds yoke would have less of a chance to hit the back of the transmission tailshaft casing, but there would be no change in whether the snout of it would bottom against anything inside the tranny.

(this is stock steel vs. stock aluminum)

 

I thought it would be other way around, the shoter(steel ds yoke) would have less chance of hiting the tailhousing casing, but it would hit the output shaft before the ls1 yoke.

 

With the longer snout, it will not bottom out aginst the yoke cause obviously the snout is longer, therefore providing more room between the tailshaft and the yolk. It still would not change the inside depth of the shaft because it is still the same legnth. Like Injuneer said, push the shaft in till it bottoms out in the tranny, get a measurment, then post up telling us the legnth. 1/2" is acceptable, but more won't hurt.

 

I had to get a new DS made with my 12 bolt

 

I really don't understand why everyone keeps having to get new or shortened drive shafts for there 12 bolts. I understand the concept, but mine fit fine with a factory aluminum driveshaft, and never had any problems. I can't imagine they vary that much from car to car, but I guess they could.

 

Did you check the clearance when you did the 12-bolt install? Did you install a Strange or a Moser? Did you get a standard or a heavy duty pinion yoke? All of those can affect whether you need a different driveshaft length. Not all 12-bolts are the same.

 

Moser rear with 1350 HD yoke. I guess I haven't really checked the clearence with a ruler, but it was more than a 1/2".

 

And that was with a stock steel? Interesting...