Your basic combination is a good one. The times and mph you have posted are not unexpected for the first time out on a new combo. Like was said above get rid of the miss and do the fine tuning. Improve your driving skills and your MPH and times will increase accordingly. You are on the right track.

 

Where are you located and what is the elevation of the track?

 

Did you really dyno 400 rwhp or is that a guess?

 

The track is about 662' above sea level, in Morocco Indiana. Tracks name is US41.

Um, not guessing the rwhp figures. The car dynoed 400 to the wheels. Does anyone else need an explanation of what that means or is that pretty clear? 400rwhp.

Edit* The weather was about 75 degrees, no wind, and sunny.

 

Oh that's cute. I only asked because 400 hp at the wheels usually nets 115-116 trap speeds. I trapped 121 with 420 RWHP. I guess that miss is costing you about 80 hp.

 

I think your definitely missing some MPH like everyone says (4 or 5 mph at least). You state that your tach is off by 500 rpms and shifting at 6800 is actually 6300. That might be part of your problem right there ! I would move my shift point up another 200 to 300 rpm's on the LE2 cam and I bet you pickup some ET and MPH just from that. Hell, I turn my stock heads & stock cam full bolt on car to 6100/6200 and it likes it ! 12.61 @ 109 mph

So, get the bugs worked out and a nice 12 bolt or 9 inch with slick and go get a 11 sec timeslip at 117/118

 

well with my nirtous and a bad opti i was trapping 109. once the opti was fixed i trapped 115. with that said i picked up 6 mph from fixing a miss that i had, hopefully u have similar results!

i guess the only reason people are questioning the 400RW is, did it actually put down 400 or 399 or 401, lol.
GL and i hope u get it figured out soon

 

Should be more than that, but give the dude a break... we all didn't do what our cars were capable of first time out at the track w/ a new setup. Let him get his **** figured out...

 

Thanks for the input guys.

Sorry for getting a little agressive up there, but I dont have anything to hide. Thats what it ran with a miss.

Mods for the winter...

-QA1 front and rear shocks/springs instead of the Eibach lowering springs on stock shocks
-9" with 4.10 gears
-some sort of slicks

The three points that I have made above I have no clue as to what direction I should I go in. Guess Ill be using the search feature alot. LOL

I also need time behind the wheel ON the track. I couldnt do that with the 10 bolt. I was getting more and more comfortable until the rear end went kaboom.

If it makes a difference at all, my previous best was a 14.0 with all the same mods except for the LE2 setup. The 14.0 was made with the lowering springs, 4.10 gears, LCA's, and thats pretty much it. With this setup, I was shifting into 5th just before I crossed the line. With the LE2 setup, Im at 6700 to 6800 in 4th as Im crossing, so thats a good thing.

I am buying a rear end from a freind, 3.72's in it, just to slap it on and try to figure out my miss before I invest in the 9". I want to get the miss figured out within the next week or two, so I can go back to the track. I just hope its not one of those phantom misses that no one can pin point and becomes a lost cause.

Getting new plugs and wires, and a new fuel filter. What are the chances that the fuel pump cannot keep up? I first noticed the miss after I had over 1000 miles on the setup, and I took the car above 5500 rpms many times before without it missing a beat, so why would it just magically appear? How do I check if the car is not getting enough fuel? <-- Would I go back to the person who tuned my car?

Thanks for all of your help guys!

 

To test fuel delivery there are a few tests you can perform. If you still have the stock 10-year old fuel pump in there that could be a problem. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the schraeder valve at the back of the intake manifold and tape it to your windshield. when you prime up the fuel pump it should jump to about 40-45 psi. Now start the car and go for some WOT runs. At WOT the FP should hold or increase to 45-47 psi I believe.

Also do you have the stock fuel injectors? I forgot the formula, but at 400 RWHP I think there is a good chance you're maxing out the stock injectors (if they are stock). If you have access to a laptop you can log some runs on datamaster to check your injector duty cycle, it should be around 80% (not higher) ideally at WOT. I don't think this would be holding you down on power but somehting to think about. Also if you logged some datamaster runs it would give you alot more info about how the car was running.

Changing the plugs and wires is a good first step. I once developped a high-RPM miss at the track, the car just wouldn't rev past 5800 RPM like it was hitting the limiter. Got home and checked the wires, the #7 had gotten pinched in between the block and that metal rail that holds it, it came out in 2 seperate pieces. Chaged the wires and all was well again. Hope yours is as easy to fix.

BTW, I think those are some good times first time out on a new setup. I'm still trying to work some bugs out of mine and to make things worse I keep breaking things Good luck I'm sure everything will turn out fine.

 

How is your oil psi? I would think something is seriously wrong with the car unless you were granny shifting.

 

I have 37lb injectors as recommended by Lloyd.

The fuel pump is stock, along with the fuel filter.

The oil PSI is fine.

 

Not bad...like everyone else said, the miss is definitely costing you the mph. Get it worked out and she'll be moving.

Just for reference with my Z with M6 3.73's I ran a 12.5 @ 114mph w/2.0' 60' on a mailorder tune (368rwhp/336rwtq) with LE heads and 230/236 cam. On the dyno I got it to put out 383whp/353rwtq by leaning it out.

 

Quick clip of the rear end going...



Ill have the 12.64 run up sometime tonight or tomorrow.

 

What is meant by full bolt-ons? What suspension changes will net mid 12's? Just curious, I see this mentioned all the time.