After 11 years of ownership I've decided to try and make the Z get into the 11 sec 1/4mile. I would like to get everyone's input on the best way to do this without breaking the checkbook. I realize there are numerous options out there but I would like to stay away from nitrous, turbo and superchargers. Prefer to stay with NA.

As you can see in my signature the car has a few bolt-ons but nothing major. I do plan on installing 4.10 gears put in the rear since I have a 6 speed and not concerned about doing 140+mph.

Is it possible to get into the 11's with heads, cam, tuning and gears? Or do I need to look at stroking the engine?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill

 

A well-planned, well-built cam-only setup with all of the proper bolt-ons, tuning, a good driver, and the proper suspension can easily bust into the 11s. It really depends on your budget.

 

Well budget is always a concern but I'm also at 93k on the odometer. I'm concerned of putting 3-4k in the engine without a rebuild. Would I be taking a chance with the engine with a cam, roller rockers, heads, and tuning? What about the LT4 kit? is it worth it or can I see the same gains or even better gains with different heads, cam, intake combo?

If I was to rebuild the engine, should I consider stroking it? I've always wanted a 383 in the car but never really understood what all was involved.

 

Better gains from different combos from what i hear. Ik you've prolly heard this before but a good shot of Nos with some dr's or slicks and the right driver will hit 11's

 

Some people have safely ran 2 stages 200+100 on stock motors

 

I have read many threads about putting heads and a cam on the car only to end up with a rebuild very soon down the road. I think they are a great way to upgrade, but dangerous on a higher mileage stock bottom end. Getting 11's will be easy, but it will cost and should be done right. I did all the upgrades like exhaust, gears, suspension & supercharger, so I can go bigger and better when the time comes.

 

I would freshen up the shortblock, possibly add a set of forged pistons and some good i beam rods, performance bearings after the crank gets checked out, have the block bored to the new pistons,have the deck checked............ Add a set of TFS 21° heads have them done by LE or AI and use one of their matching cams not sure of your mods now but you need all of them plus larger injectors. Get a nice clutch and a real rear end w/ 3.73s or 4.10s..... you will spend some coin on this project but 11s will be cake..

 

Maybe you should ask someone who has done it..I know there is a guy here pushing a B-body into the mid 11's on a stock shortblock..

 

Therese a lot of great threads about this already too. Might want to try a search if you haven't. What ever route you go make sure you don't cheap out and buy quality parts.

 

You have to be careful, you will get a lot of mediocre to poor info on forums like this.

If I were you I would look at www.AdvancedInduction.com heads and cam, yes you could do it cam only if you drove well and got everything else just right. Doing heads and cam though will give you the power to do it with a softer launch, or if your shifting skills are less than wonderful.

Once concern you should keep in the back of your mind though is the 7.5" axle combined with an M6 can be a little fragile.
IMO by aiming for HP to overcome a soft launch you can probably get by with it though, but keep it in the back of your mind and have a plan should something bad happen.

My car is NOT a dialed in racecar, another guy(Pat Gish) with a 96 Impala SS has his setup to race, more gear, more stall lightened to 3800lbs with driver and with the same heads/cam setup I have has managed 10.9 and the launch still isn't perfect. Few could match his ability to wring everything out of a setup. I mention it because a lot of people who buy cheaper parts have dismissed my car as a dialed in racer, it isn't. Not when Pat goes just over half a second faster with the same topend. Mine is a street car, AC,ABS, power everything, driven to and from the track, still get high teens for mileage.

Your goal should be easily in reach.

I hesitate to do shortblock work unless it is VERY basic like rebuilding stock rods and putting new ring and bearings in or at the complete other end of the spectrum with $600 pistons, $300 rods etc. IMO the cheap builds are not much if any upgrade.

 

I hear 4.10 gears are rough on a 10 bolt through a m6. Im looking too chnge my rear out too a ford 8.8 with 3.55's but im also using an a4. 4.10's with sticky tires and a m6 equals grenaded ten bolt imo. There are several good options as far as heads/cam goes. U can have your stock heads ported with a decent cam and supporting mods and easily hit 11's. Ai heads will run you some coin,same with afr's. Most of the guys making big power run those two. Your not greedy either by looking for 11's so i would say. Lloyd elliots heads would be a good starting point. Also too forewarn you 11's wont keep you satisfied for long, maybe just build it too the hilt the first time. You'll always want more power lol.

 

Advanced Induction is not that expensive and when you buy the whole valvetrain and gasket package from them the pricing becomes quite competitive.

 

Pull the m6 out and use a built 4l60e with a yank ss 3600 stall; that alone should put you into the 12s, and with a decent heads and cam set up along with traction you should make it into the 11s.

 

For what he's looking for the difference between le3's and ai 200 cc gm castings is the price of a billet cam. 1600 for the le3's 1800 for the ai's. He gets heads and cam for 1900 as opposed too ai's for 2100. Why not go all out and spend 2400 on afr heads? Truth is he could have his stock heads ported by a well known machine shop for 1/3 of the price of either set of heads and reach his goal for 1000 less

 

There are two guys in this thread with "faster than they should be" cars. We are also the only two backing up our choices with results.

I guess how you proceed from here says a lot about your reasoning skills and should tell you a lot about other people's.

Far as AFR you aren't going to find anyone knowledgeable telling you to use those on a stock displacement inside the pcm's limits build. Just simply more proof of how much bad info you will get from folks who blindly defend their choice WITHOUT results to back it up.