11s N/A for under 3.5K
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 219
From: Madison, WI
11s N/A for under 3.5K
I was wondering who here hit the 11s with no power adders (no nitrous) and spent less than $3500?? If anybody...
I want to know how easy it is to hit the elevens naturally aspirated.
I want to know how easy it is to hit the elevens naturally aspirated.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 132
From: Jacksonville, FL
It would be easier with an auto... assuming the tranny and rear hold together I would do it this way...
160 thermo 20
CAI 150
3000-3500 stall 500
ET streets 350
3.73 150
Rear-end Girdle 150
Longtube headers 500
cutout 25
Port stock heads 500
cc306 cam 250
1.6RR 200
valve springs 50
30lbs SVO's 200
58mm TB 300
Tuning 150
That's about 3.5k and should land you in the area of 400rwhp which should easily be enough for 11's with a 1.5-1.8 60'
Keep in mind that you can find most of that stuff cheaper on ebay
160 thermo 20
CAI 150
3000-3500 stall 500
ET streets 350
3.73 150
Rear-end Girdle 150
Longtube headers 500
cutout 25
Port stock heads 500
cc306 cam 250
1.6RR 200
valve springs 50
30lbs SVO's 200
58mm TB 300
Tuning 150
That's about 3.5k and should land you in the area of 400rwhp which should easily be enough for 11's with a 1.5-1.8 60'
Keep in mind that you can find most of that stuff cheaper on ebay
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 528
From: Ford City Pennsylvania
Gut your car!!!!! Take everything that doesn't need to be in there for that straight shot OUT!!! Don't drink so much beer, for a month or two. and do a couple bolt ons and cam and such like slayn said. No problem!! Good luck. 
Banned
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,029
From: NJ
Originally posted by Slayn
It would be easier with an auto... assuming the tranny and rear hold together I would do it this way...
160 thermo 20
CAI 150
3000-3500 stall 500
ET streets 350
3.73 150
Rear-end Girdle 150
Longtube headers 500
cutout 25
Port stock heads 500
cc306 cam 250
1.6RR 200
valve springs 50
30lbs SVO's 200
58mm TB 300
Tuning 150
That's about 3.5k and should land you in the area of 400rwhp which should easily be enough for 11's with a 1.5-1.8 60'
Keep in mind that you can find most of that stuff cheaper on ebay
It would be easier with an auto... assuming the tranny and rear hold together I would do it this way...
160 thermo 20
CAI 150
3000-3500 stall 500
ET streets 350
3.73 150
Rear-end Girdle 150
Longtube headers 500
cutout 25
Port stock heads 500
cc306 cam 250
1.6RR 200
valve springs 50
30lbs SVO's 200
58mm TB 300
Tuning 150
That's about 3.5k and should land you in the area of 400rwhp which should easily be enough for 11's with a 1.5-1.8 60'
Keep in mind that you can find most of that stuff cheaper on ebay
You must be getting a deal on P&P heads for $500. Either that or they flow like crap
Banned
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,505
From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Cmotorsports cam package- $600 after little stuff
LLoyds heads- $630
Valves- $180
Headers- $500
Converter $800
BFG Drag radials- $300
theres some room for shippin and stuff. installation costs will rape you
LLoyds heads- $630
Valves- $180
Headers- $500
Converter $800
BFG Drag radials- $300
theres some room for shippin and stuff. installation costs will rape you
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,123
I think Trey had apost awhile ago about this.....
You will NEED some suspension if you're gonna get it. With all that power yours 60' will be awful with stock suspension. You gotta throw in an extra $600 or so just to suspension (SFCs, STB. PHB. LCAs, etc)
With my set up I plan on hitting around 12.5....if I had gears and tires I think I could cut it down to like 12.2.....throw in a better suspension and some LTs with an ORP insteadof what I got and 11s should be made. Or you can go my route and throw in a 100 shot
You will NEED some suspension if you're gonna get it. With all that power yours 60' will be awful with stock suspension. You gotta throw in an extra $600 or so just to suspension (SFCs, STB. PHB. LCAs, etc)
With my set up I plan on hitting around 12.5....if I had gears and tires I think I could cut it down to like 12.2.....throw in a better suspension and some LTs with an ORP insteadof what I got and 11s should be made. Or you can go my route and throw in a 100 shot
Banned
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,505
From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Originally posted by 95TA8280
I think Trey had apost awhile ago about this.....
You will NEED some suspension if you're gonna get it. With all that power yours 60' will be awful with stock suspension. You gotta throw in an extra $600 or so just to suspension (SFCs, STB. PHB. LCAs, etc)
With my set up I plan on hitting around 12.5....if I had gears and tires I think I could cut it down to like 12.2.....throw in a better suspension and some LTs with an ORP insteadof what I got and 11s should be made. Or you can go my route and throw in a 100 shot
I think Trey had apost awhile ago about this.....
You will NEED some suspension if you're gonna get it. With all that power yours 60' will be awful with stock suspension. You gotta throw in an extra $600 or so just to suspension (SFCs, STB. PHB. LCAs, etc)
With my set up I plan on hitting around 12.5....if I had gears and tires I think I could cut it down to like 12.2.....throw in a better suspension and some LTs with an ORP insteadof what I got and 11s should be made. Or you can go my route and throw in a 100 shot
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,054
From: Six Mile, SC, USA
Originally posted by 95TA8280
You will NEED some suspension if you're gonna get it. With all that power yours 60' will be awful with stock suspension. You gotta throw in an extra $600 or so just to suspension (SFCs, STB. PHB. LCAs, etc)
You will NEED some suspension if you're gonna get it. With all that power yours 60' will be awful with stock suspension. You gotta throw in an extra $600 or so just to suspension (SFCs, STB. PHB. LCAs, etc)
Alot of the quotes given up top do not include alot of stuff....and it is cheaper to buy tools and do it yourself!!!
Good luck, with the right luck anything is possible....like me, I got lucky and run pretty good with just 355 cubes compared to some 383+ motors....
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 361
From: Mt Laurel, NJ USA
Originally posted by Shon Herron
The only thing that MIGHT be needed is LCAs and relocation brackets. The stock TA/PHR are fine and SFCs is a personal choice. SFCs are heavy. Think about loosing the weight and then worry about other stuff.
The only thing that MIGHT be needed is LCAs and relocation brackets. The stock TA/PHR are fine and SFCs is a personal choice. SFCs are heavy. Think about loosing the weight and then worry about other stuff.
As far as suspension goes, I would go with a Spohn torque arm from Spohn with spherical rod ends, Wolfe racecraft spherical rod end adjustable lower control arms, and a set of subframe connectors from slotcarracing.com and that'll be all that you would need. Don't buy a strut tower brace, it's useless at the drag strip.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,054
From: Six Mile, SC, USA
Originally posted by zmanlt1
Are you insane, SFC's are a must unless you want a twisted chassis. If you get the ones from slotcarracing.com, they cost about $85 and are all you will need. Oh and they pretty light compared to those overpriced heavy double diamond junks that SLP sells.
As far as suspension goes, I would go with a Spohn torque arm from Spohn with spherical rod ends, Wolfe racecraft spherical rod end adjustable lower control arms, and a set of subframe connectors from slotcarracing.com and that'll be all that you would need. Don't buy a strut tower brace, it's useless at the drag strip.
Are you insane, SFC's are a must unless you want a twisted chassis. If you get the ones from slotcarracing.com, they cost about $85 and are all you will need. Oh and they pretty light compared to those overpriced heavy double diamond junks that SLP sells.
As far as suspension goes, I would go with a Spohn torque arm from Spohn with spherical rod ends, Wolfe racecraft spherical rod end adjustable lower control arms, and a set of subframe connectors from slotcarracing.com and that'll be all that you would need. Don't buy a strut tower brace, it's useless at the drag strip.
) He has also pulled 1.5s on the spray with no SFCs....I have them, would not have them knowing what I know now...Aftermarket TAs are just too heavy. Go to an NHRA event when the stockers are there, you tell me what aftermarket parts they have in the suspension....running 10s...
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 187
From: Norcross, GA
If you don't install it urself or get someone to do it for free, ur gonna have trouble. In an lt1 car ur gonna need to make a whole lotta pwr. And this will require a cam that is gonnna make a daily driver a SOB.
with a good cam and decent heads/intake you should reach your goal with sticky's in an auto.
BTW My heads on my car flow real well, but i need more lift. I make 381 at the wheels. Just to give u an idea of what kinda pwr ur gonna need to make...of course auto and sticky's mean lower et's but this gives u an idea.
good luck
with a good cam and decent heads/intake you should reach your goal with sticky's in an auto.
BTW My heads on my car flow real well, but i need more lift. I make 381 at the wheels. Just to give u an idea of what kinda pwr ur gonna need to make...of course auto and sticky's mean lower et's but this gives u an idea.
good luck
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,054
From: Six Mile, SC, USA
Originally posted by JohnsSS
In an lt1 car ur gonna need to make a whole lotta pwr.
good luck
In an lt1 car ur gonna need to make a whole lotta pwr.
good luck