1.6 Stamped rockers
1.6 Stamped rockers
Im looking to get rid of the roller rockers because it seems everytime I turn around I am readjusting them and the studs keep coming loose from the head. Gonna switch back to regular rocker arms to get over this problem. Before everyone starts the big RR are the best type of deal, I need honest opnions Im looking at summit stamped 1.6 rockers 59.99 or summit roller tip 1.6 rockers. Im not worried about losing the 4 hp from switching them over. I can turn the boost up and make up for it. Any reason either of these wouldnt work on my setup?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku
The cam is a comp 224/236 114LSA
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku
The cam is a comp 224/236 114LSA
Well, firstly - Stamped rockers almost never reach their advertised ratio. A 1.5 stamped rocker usually ends up in the 1.4x range, and a 1.6 stamped rocker usually ends up in the 1.5x range. You'll lose lift.
Secondly, it all depends on what cam you're running. If you have a high-lift aggressive lobe cam and higher than stock RPMs the stamped rockers will most likely gall at the ball and will cause a lot higher rate of guide wear.
If your studs keep unscrewing from the heads, you need to pull them all off, clean everything with brake cleaner or something like it, including the holes in the heads. It must all be bone dry. Then apply locktite to the threads and a drop of oil under the shoulder of the stud, and reinstall them, torquing them to the proper numbers. If your heads are ported and the top of the port intersects the rocker stud hole, you'll have to substitute Permatex sealer for the locktite. But those studs must be installed with a torque wrench, to the proper torque.
Secondly, it all depends on what cam you're running. If you have a high-lift aggressive lobe cam and higher than stock RPMs the stamped rockers will most likely gall at the ball and will cause a lot higher rate of guide wear.
If your studs keep unscrewing from the heads, you need to pull them all off, clean everything with brake cleaner or something like it, including the holes in the heads. It must all be bone dry. Then apply locktite to the threads and a drop of oil under the shoulder of the stud, and reinstall them, torquing them to the proper numbers. If your heads are ported and the top of the port intersects the rocker stud hole, you'll have to substitute Permatex sealer for the locktite. But those studs must be installed with a torque wrench, to the proper torque.
Comp Cams "Extreme" LT1 Camshaft, 224 / 236, .502 / .520 114 LSA, Very aggressive camshaft for street/strip blower applications. That is the cam I dont think the lift is to extreme. The heads are stock unported and I was told to use the permatex on them so Thats what I ended up doing.
Last edited by c0rey; Mar 24, 2008 at 10:02 AM.
The opening rate of that cam and the high spring pressures will destroy stamped rockers in short order, as well as wearing the guides very fast.
Are you currently using rockers and guide plates? If so, did you get new studs with longer threads to accommodate the guide plates?
Are you currently using rockers and guide plates? If so, did you get new studs with longer threads to accommodate the guide plates?
Im looking for some longer studs to use with the guide plates. I think thats my problem. I just measured the rocker studs and they only have 1/2 inch showing through so pry 1/4 inch after the gm plates! Gonna reinstall with arp bolts and trickflow plates. and loctite. Anyone got a part number for 3/8 arp number?
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