My pcmforless mail order tune is pretty decent considering the size and LSA of the LE3, but it needs a dyno tune session realistically. Part throttle is OK but has a good bit of cam surge at a certain range, and in the morning I have to pretty much keep my foot on the gas to keep the car alive for the first minute or so of operation.

I may check with Bryan to see what he can go over in the meantime.

 

>carb clean works too
http://www.shop.com/op/aprod-p239151...er?sourceid=13

 

hmm ill deff try the carb cleaner today after work.... so say i do this and the car does not rev up on its own at all what else can it be from

yea javier i know i think if i sent my data log to bryan he can get me a lot better tune but it just seems like someone has to be physically here to help me with this one, i mean the car is drivable but it gets annoying when you have a car infront of you and you either have two options... floor it if your the first one at the light or ease into it if someone is in front of you and i mean really easy into it until i pass 2000 then the cars in back of me think im doing it on purpose and honkin at me, but when i pass 2000 later......

 

Well i had ordered a maill order tune from PCMforless it was a good baseline tune with the tune from them i did 350RWHP.Adding a cutout and a dyno tune i picked up 37.5 RWHP.

 

ok hmm well i sprayed all around the intake manifold and the car did not rev up on its own at all

 

Nothing can replace a dyno session with a professional tuner. As previously stated most of them chanrge by the hour, so it takes what it takes. That aside, back firing through the intake is most likely a timing issue.

 

then a dyno tune it is because i seriously doubt its a vacuum leak i mean wouldnt the car run like a** and everything is new heres some pics
http://hometown.aol.com/playa7970/Camaro383.html

 

Your car is pulling less than 6" of Hg at idle. The car builds some vacuum off idle (greatest I saw in that log was ~ 12" of Hg). You may be able to fix this with some timing at idle. You could use about 6 more degrees at idle, but it's already retarding 3* because of knock. Do your brakes work? Do you have an LT4 KM?

Do you have tuning software? I could add some timing in for you and see if your MAP gets more into the "norm".

 

thanks for the reply i dont have any tuning software and even if i did, i have no clue how to read it or tune it lol if you can do that for id appriciate it, as for the brakes at idle there not what they use to be lol harder to stop but when im moving its all good as for the KM thats one of the first things i bought was the LT4 KM any ideas?

 

You're cam is not "big" enough to cause a loss of brakes. Like I said, mine is larger and my brakes work fine. I can't add any timing for you because you'd have to pull your tune out and email it to me.

How do your plugs look? Maybe you're loosing some vacuum on the inside of the intake. If so, I would believe that you'd have oil on your plugs or your car would smoke. Do you know why are getting spark retard? I saw up to 5* just from you slightly revving the car. That should be absent and it is unlikely a dyno tune will help that.

 

ok well i pulled one of my spark plugs out and theres not a drop of oil on them and the color is whitish light brown to them, also i pulled my cold air intake off and looked inside the throttle body and its somewhat black (from the backfire i believe) and if i stick my finger inside the throttle body port theres somewhat of oil is this normal? its crazy i dunnno where else to begin to look

 

Maybe make another post or do some searching about the vacuum. Also, I still don't understand why it would pull 3* of timing at idle. I can understand the 5* with slightly revving the car because it is seeing the MAP sensor reading as if the car was under a huge load and it is going to add a bunch of timing. Is your exhaust extremely loud? Any reasons you can think of for the knock retard? Are you running premium gas?

All in all, do some serious searching and figure out why the car has so little vacuum and why it is retarding timing at idle. Make another post like "Low Vacuum and Spark Retard, Log inside" or something like that. That would attract others and maybe someone could give you a clearer answer. Make sure you post what you've tried so they don't repeat what's been said in this thread.

 

hmmm i might do that as far as my exhaust im running only a muffler and its pretty loud, i always run premium gas, i don tknow if compression has anything to do with it but its set at 12.1

 

Compression plays a big part in spark knock. If you wanted to rule out the possibility that the car is spark knocking for sure, then get some 100 octane, or whatever you can get (unleaded) and put it in the car and test it again. I'm not sure about how much you'd have to add though. If you bought a few gallons and added it to a small amount of gas, you would notice a decrease in the knock retard at idle and even off idle. If this doesn't help, then you know that it is false knock and you need to address that. Just a loud muffler shouldn't cause false knock. I was talking about open long tubes or something.

 

Get a mechanical vaccume gauge (test). Verify that the map sensor is even functioning properly.

It is possible that it could be miss adjusted valves, or worse maby the cam is a tooth off. It could even be an injector/ fuel supply (filter) issue .

Start with the basic vaccume test, and see where you are from there. Remembet to diagnose by the K.I.S.S. method (Keep It Simple Sucka ) and I am sure you will figure it out. Most importantly, I would NOT change another thing on the car untill the problem is found and fixed.

NOTE: A professional tuner would be able to pinpoint the exact problem.
Good luck