I checked Kelly Blue Book and it ranges from 3500-5000. I'll give him the 20 questions on the history. I'm not as skeptical since its my friends brother, but i'm not an idiot either. I used to go to dealer car auctions and i've witnessed the shadiness. So i know what to look for...

 

Just remember my post above, if for some reason you guys don't reach a deal, or if it has a few things wrong that you don't want to mess with, let me know, I want to check it out

 

Here is the verdict on the test drive:

It ran strong, but i noticed a "sputter" almost like it had some kind of exhaust leak. All power accessories worked. Body was free of dings, dents... The paint was a little sketchy, particulary on the hood. It had been involved in a front end collision of some sort with the previous owner. That's why it had a cowl hood. The little panel behind the passenger side tire looked like it had a little body work done as the paint didn't match.

He had a $600 repair to the "intake manifold" 2 years ago. However, he had not replaced the Opti. He bought the car with 91,000 miles, so its possible the previous owner replaced it.

The car shifted smoothly under hard acceleration and downshifted fine. However, it wouldnt engage overdrive. I floored it until about 75 and i did notice a little bit of engine hesitation, but it was minor. At 60-70, it was running about 2500 rpm with minor throttle input. I've driven these cars before, and usually theyll drop down to between 1500 and 2000 rpm, right? Another trans problem i noted was that at 40 i moved the shifter into "2" and nothing happened. At about 20 it was in second gear and i tried puling it into first, nothing. At 70-75, 3rd and "D" were the same. Shifting between both wouldnt induce a change.

The ABS light, Hand brake light, and low coolant lights were on. It has a slow coolant leak. However the coolant level was fine but im not sure why the light was on.

Whats your take?

 

he might have different gearing in the car, that could explain the RPM at 70 issue.

The sputter, sounds like a symtom alot of people seem to get.
but for 1800, I would buy it. worst thing is you cna just sell it for 4k.

 

The car is completely stock. He doesnt know a damn thing about cars. I asked him about the Optispark, he had / has no clue.

 

Anyone know the reason for what the transmission is doing? I know very little about automatics. Right now, this is about all thats keeping me from buy it. HELP!

 

Why don't you tell me where its located, and I'll check it out for you. Most likely your not going to want it though.

J/k of course, damn what I wouldn't give to be in your shoes. I need a D.D.

Let me know if you opt not to get it and where its located.

 

Just buy the damn car , Even if you have to tow it home I would pay 2K in a heartbeat.

 

Buy it if the motor runs good.....you could sell it for parts and make your money back probably

 

i think the tranny shifts up automatically.....get a trans go if you want to hold r's.

When you stomp it at 70 there is a little hesitation anyway. I do know for a fact that at low speeds going from D to OD does nothing for r's, cause i always drop it in drive in town

Does it have the 1st gear selector......that would mean he has at least the 3.23's maybe even 3.42's

 

For $2K, I'd buy it.

 

I just got your PM. I would have went with you if I got it earlier.
The low coolant light is no problem. The sensor gets a build up on it and thinks its low. You can unplug it and the light goes out, or replace the sensor (fairly cheap). The ABS light is probably a loose or dirty connection at the wheel sensor, but it also could be something more expensive to fix, I wouldn't worry about it. The hand brake light almost has to be an easy fix. The hesitation could be anything. It could be as easy as new plugs and wires or it could be something expensive. If it is minor, I wouldn't let that keep me from buying the car.

The only thing that would worry me is that the tranny will not go into OD. I don't think there is going to be a cheap fix for that. I think $2000 is a very good price for the car, but I would expect to have to spend some more money on it fairly soon after buying it. It really depends on what you want (and how mechanically inclined you are). I wouldn't buy it if you are going to need to pay someone to fix things anytime it breaks. If you want a car that is going to take some work, I would go for it.

I paid $2000 for my car and it wasn't running. But, I was looking for a project. If you end up buying the car, let me know and I can help you out with a lot of the stuff. If you decide to pass, let me know. I would like to take a look at the car. I might decide I need another project.

Dustin

 

Honestly man, just buy the car. $2000 is a freakin steal. You're days away from owning your own LT1, and you said that's been something you've wanted since High School. GO FOR IT!!

 

i say if you can afford it, BUY IT.
i live about 30 minutes south of indy. if you buy it and decide you don't want it......i've got a 97 gsx-r600 for sale in the for sale section i'll trade ya.

 

for 2 grand ill buy the damn thing right now!! LOL and 4th gen that runs is worth atleast 2grand! if you dont buy it let one of us know, cuz id like to trade my beater 6 in for another lt1 car. so if i were you, buy it!!