That would be nice. Or even if they had drilled and slotted

 

Drilled and slotted is an appearance thing. I'd rather have larger solid rotors.

 

they do look good,but they have a function.. it cuts down on hot gases ..

Drilling can cause cracking if the rotor is not oversized..oversized rotors also make up for the reduced surface area...somwhere between 5%-10%

Do you work for Spike TV?

 

Well IIRC, the slots are to dispel the gasses that build up, and the holes are for cooling. Ive found the slots are plenty useful on a daily driver, but I got them drilled too because I wanted the look.

 

They look pretty sick when you have some nice chrome rims to go along with it.

 

It is called "OUT GASSING" and it is a gimick to get people to spend extra cash on cut up rotors that they don't need. With modern pad compounds, outgassing is not a factor. You need to see what the pad manufacturers who aren't selling x-drilled rotors have to say about this.

Drilling can cause cracking on "oversized" rotors also. Why? If you run agressive enough pads and brake hard enough to heat oversized rotors up to the same extent as stock rotors then they are just as prone to cracking. Actually, I have also seen slotted rotors crack from the end of the slot the edge of the rotor.

Most people complain about fade and attribute this to "out gassing." Basicly what you are experiencing is either your fluid boiling or the pads getting hotter than their working temp. You can cure this by changing to a better fluid (if that is the prob) or pads that can take more heat, or rotors with more mass. A rotor is basicly a heat sink. More mass = more energey/friction it takes to heat them up to a given temp. So in short you can brake harder, longer or more often before they heat to the point where the pads will fail.

X-drilling/slotted doesn't help with cooling either. Only directional veined rotors create airflow through them and our and most other production rotors aren't. There are only 3 way to cool a rotor. That is by more mass (remember heat sink), directional veins and airducts.

Now that we have the heat sink principle, and the fact that outgassing isn't an issue, and the knowlege of methods that really cool rotors in place how does making holes in your rotors beneficial to performance when you are not only decreasing the surface area but decreasing the mass?

No, I don't work for Spike, but I do know plenty of people who road race and have learned enough from them not to buy into the x-drilled/slotted propaganda. Your pad choice and some good fresh fluid will do more for your braking than putting some holes or grooves in a set of otherwise perfectly good rotors.

I have slotted for looks on my DD, but the braking isn't any better because of them. It is due to the more agressive pad compound that I chose and the new fluid I put in. Plus we shouldn't ignore the role tires play in better braking too.

 

I was wondering if someone could write out a whole list of what it would take to get to the "SS". Everything from engine to SS badges. I am hopefully soon to be a proud owner of a 00 Z28, and I want to covert it to an SS. Thanks a ton!

 

Badges, wheels, hood, wing, exhaust tips. But it will still be a Z28, and like we have discussed in here, its mostly a looks thing, hardly any performance difference, track times are the same.

 

Ok, yeah I really like the looks of the SS.

Isn't there exhaust, suspension and a different intake?

 

The catback made the 5-10 or whatever horsepower difference, and your right, the Ram Air did nothing at lower speeds, but it is supposed to start helping at 80 mph. It will help with gas mileage on the highway. I dont know how a hp increase could be measeured since on a dyno there is no wind flowing...

 

The opening on the SS hood sets too far back, in an low pressure area. It works well as a CAI, but not so much as "ram air".

 

In your opinion what do you think is better for LS1's, Ram Air or Cold Air Intake?

 

IMO, ram air was a marketing ploy. Cars in general don't go fast enough (especially in drag races) to create the positive manifold pressure that ram air implies so all the "ram air" set ups are truly CAI's.

80mph isn't fast enough to create true ram air.

 

I know for a fact that the SSRA can improve 1/4 mile performance by 0.100 sec. and 1 mph.
And what LS1 only goes 80mph in the 1/4?

 

It improves performance from cold air not because of ram air.

80mph came from someone saying that is where "ram air" becomes effective. I doubt many cars see the speeds needed for true ram air to occur.