WS6 Cold air induction
01-16-2003, 11:29 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 606
Neither.
The WS6 already has cold air induction. That's what the nostrils at the front do. (ram air is just a "better-sounding" name for cold air)
WS6's come stock w/ cold air, so there's no point in blowing another $100+ on an aftermarket system.
The WS6 already has cold air induction. That's what the nostrils at the front do. (ram air is just a "better-sounding" name for cold air)
WS6's come stock w/ cold air, so there's no point in blowing another $100+ on an aftermarket system.
01-17-2003, 02:54 PM
#3
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Memphis, TN, USA
Posts: 1,122
Well, here's some info on the WS6 ram-air intake
(A) The airbox is not sealed to the hood scoops. If you look, there is a 2 inch gap. You ain't pushing much air into the box unless you seal that gap.
(B) The ram-air scoops have a pair of internal baffles (I think they are rain deflectors) which need to be removed. Otherwise, you're not getting a straight shot of air through the "nostrils"
(C) The hood has holes in the bottom of the opening, which are there to allow rain to escape (so I've been told). These are letting all the air escape, along with the frikkin' 2" gap between the hood and the box
(D) Supposedly the nostrils are in a "dead air" zone where there is little airflow. Personally, I don't see how this is possible, but if someone can show me a wind tunnel test with a smoke stream, I'll be willing to change my mind.
OK ... so there are some problems with the OEM "ram air" ... but they can be fixed!
Remove the rain deflectors from inside the hood opening. Easy fix.
Seal the gap between the box and the hood by placing 2" foam weatherstrip on the hood opening. This will allow the hood opening to mate nicely with the air box opening.
Seal the bottom of the hood intake (duct tape, gaffer tape, rubber plugs, grommets, ... whatever)
Now, assuming that the nostrils are not in a dead air zone, they should make for a better ram air intake than the 3rd party ones that suck from under the radiator. Why? Air temp!
Driving along (especially during the hot summer months), the air just above the pavement is hot and humid and "sticky" since it's been sitting there soaking in the sun all day, and it holds this heat well into the night (at least it does here in Memphis). Is this the air that you want to suck into your motor? NO! You want to suck air from at least a foot above the pavement, where it is cooler.
But you say that the air above the hood is hot because of engine heat soaking into the hood. Nope! The WS6 hood is fiberglass. It doesn't get very hot. Think I'm wrong? Fiberglass doesn't suffer from heat soak nearly as bad as metal does.
Go drive your metal hood vehicle for 20 minutes and then park it and feel the hood. OUCH! (now go treat your burned hand)
Ok, now go drive your WS6 for 20 minutes and park it. Using your non-bandaged hand, feel your hood. It's warm, but not hot. Besides, the air flowing through the airbox wouldn't be there long enough to soak up the heat, even on a metal hood.
So ... which do you want? hot sticky air from inches above the pavement, or regular outside air from a bit further off the ground?
If you seal the airbox, and remove the baffles, then the OEM ram-air becomes fully functional and should perform equal to (or better than) a 3rd party intake.
(A) The airbox is not sealed to the hood scoops. If you look, there is a 2 inch gap. You ain't pushing much air into the box unless you seal that gap.
(B) The ram-air scoops have a pair of internal baffles (I think they are rain deflectors) which need to be removed. Otherwise, you're not getting a straight shot of air through the "nostrils"
(C) The hood has holes in the bottom of the opening, which are there to allow rain to escape (so I've been told). These are letting all the air escape, along with the frikkin' 2" gap between the hood and the box
(D) Supposedly the nostrils are in a "dead air" zone where there is little airflow. Personally, I don't see how this is possible, but if someone can show me a wind tunnel test with a smoke stream, I'll be willing to change my mind.
OK ... so there are some problems with the OEM "ram air" ... but they can be fixed!
Remove the rain deflectors from inside the hood opening. Easy fix.
Seal the gap between the box and the hood by placing 2" foam weatherstrip on the hood opening. This will allow the hood opening to mate nicely with the air box opening.
Seal the bottom of the hood intake (duct tape, gaffer tape, rubber plugs, grommets, ... whatever)
Now, assuming that the nostrils are not in a dead air zone, they should make for a better ram air intake than the 3rd party ones that suck from under the radiator. Why? Air temp!
Driving along (especially during the hot summer months), the air just above the pavement is hot and humid and "sticky" since it's been sitting there soaking in the sun all day, and it holds this heat well into the night (at least it does here in Memphis). Is this the air that you want to suck into your motor? NO! You want to suck air from at least a foot above the pavement, where it is cooler.
But you say that the air above the hood is hot because of engine heat soaking into the hood. Nope! The WS6 hood is fiberglass. It doesn't get very hot. Think I'm wrong? Fiberglass doesn't suffer from heat soak nearly as bad as metal does.
Go drive your metal hood vehicle for 20 minutes and then park it and feel the hood. OUCH! (now go treat your burned hand)
Ok, now go drive your WS6 for 20 minutes and park it. Using your non-bandaged hand, feel your hood. It's warm, but not hot. Besides, the air flowing through the airbox wouldn't be there long enough to soak up the heat, even on a metal hood.
So ... which do you want? hot sticky air from inches above the pavement, or regular outside air from a bit further off the ground?
If you seal the airbox, and remove the baffles, then the OEM ram-air becomes fully functional and should perform equal to (or better than) a 3rd party intake.
Last edited by rncotton; 01-17-2003 at 02:57 PM.
01-17-2003, 04:53 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: fort bliss, tx
Posts: 82
I agree with the above except for one thing; the rain baffles also provide the air flow with pressurization! As the air moves below the first and above the second baffle, it gets compressed ever so slightly, creating a vacuum inside the intakd scoop. Now, sealing that 2" gap between the hood and the intake is right on!
That allows the rain guards to create the compression of the incoming air charge. That's how the hood's supposed to work! I found a link a long time ago showing a vid of our WS6's in a wind tunnel, I'll try to find it again. The nostrils sit inside a "negative pressure zone", so you see the smoke driving right into the nostrils, it's cool!! Good luck with it...
That allows the rain guards to create the compression of the incoming air charge. That's how the hood's supposed to work! I found a link a long time ago showing a vid of our WS6's in a wind tunnel, I'll try to find it again. The nostrils sit inside a "negative pressure zone", so you see the smoke driving right into the nostrils, it's cool!! Good luck with it...
01-18-2003, 09:26 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Memphis, TN, USA
Posts: 1,122
BGRA is too expensive for what it is (In my opinion)
Also, since on his web site he says to make sure you don't drop it or it will break .. .well that tells me that it isn't well constructed. I mean ... geez ... you should be able to drop any plastic part and it NOT break. What's so flimsy/fragile about his?
Seal the gap, remove the baffles, seal the holes in the bottom of the hood and be done with it. Lots less $$$.
Also, since on his web site he says to make sure you don't drop it or it will break .. .well that tells me that it isn't well constructed. I mean ... geez ... you should be able to drop any plastic part and it NOT break. What's so flimsy/fragile about his?
Seal the gap, remove the baffles, seal the holes in the bottom of the hood and be done with it. Lots less $$$.
01-19-2003, 11:54 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Downey, CA
Posts: 255
Originally posted by rncotton
BGRA is too expensive for what it is (In my opinion)
Also, since on his web site he says to make sure you don't drop it or it will break .. .well that tells me that it isn't well constructed. I mean ... geez ... you should be able to drop any plastic part and it NOT break. What's so flimsy/fragile about his?
Seal the gap, remove the baffles, seal the holes in the bottom of the hood and be done with it. Lots less $$$.
BGRA is too expensive for what it is (In my opinion)
Also, since on his web site he says to make sure you don't drop it or it will break .. .well that tells me that it isn't well constructed. I mean ... geez ... you should be able to drop any plastic part and it NOT break. What's so flimsy/fragile about his?
Seal the gap, remove the baffles, seal the holes in the bottom of the hood and be done with it. Lots less $$$.
1) If I removethe baffles how will I keep water from getting in my engine
2) I did the FRA a while ago will I have to seal that now?
3) Do u know where I can get step by step instructions on this?
4) After I do this do u think I should get Stealth Air box or just keep the lid I have now?
Thanks again..
01-19-2003, 04:15 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 36
Driving along (especially during the hot summer months), the air just above the pavement is hot and humid and "sticky" since it's been sitting there soaking in the sun all day, and it holds this heat well into the night (at least it does here in Memphis). Is this the air that you want to suck into your motor? NO! You want to suck air from at least a foot above the pavement, where it is cooler.
What "cold air induction" means is relative to underhood temps. If it's 110 degrees a couple of feet off the road it is probably 180 degrees under the hood. If air coming into the engine is taken in at 1 foot or 3 feet off the ground it is still much colder than air being sucked in from inside the engine bay. Even though the SS hood is worse than the WS6 hood for taking in outside air, the SS hood is still better than the Z28 hood due to it pulling in outside air.
01-21-2003, 08:13 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Memphis, TN, USA
Posts: 1,122
Originally posted by ZIPPERR
1) If I removethe baffles how will I keep water from getting in my engine
Don't drive through water deeper than your hood.
Seriously though, it shouldn't be a problem as long as your have your filter in place. The small amount of water that gets sucked in will get stopped by the filter
2) I did the FRA a while ago will I have to seal that now?
Yes, otherwise you don't have a sealed airbox. Either buy a new plastic shroud to replace the one you cut, or seal a piece of black plastic in the bottom of your airbox.
3) Do u know where I can get step by step instructions on this?
Nope. I can't find anything online anywhere, and I've been looking for info on this since July 2002. If you find something, please share it with us
4) After I do this do u think I should get Stealth Air box or just keep the lid I have now?
Personally, I'd keep the aftermarket lid you've got. $300 for a stealth air box? It better roll over and kiss me in the morning.
===========
Booradley -- nope, I've never taken air temp samples. However, working for the fire department, I can tell you that in a fire environment, there can be 200 degrees difference in heat just by going up or down 12 inches. So I have no reason to doubt that air coming off the pavement would be different (not that extreme, however) Even if it's just 10 degrees, that's 10 degrees cooler than what's right on the pavement.
With the typical cold-air setup that scoops air from under the bumper cover, you're not even a foot off the ground. You're pulling that air from mere inches above the sticky asphalt. (I know, you're going to say that NASCAR does it and it works for them, but they're also travelling at a much higher rate of speed)
If anyone has the means to measure actual air intake temps by pulling air at different heights above the pavement, I'd love to see the results. My info is based on something I read a couple of years ago, but it seems logical enough for me.
1) If I removethe baffles how will I keep water from getting in my engine
Don't drive through water deeper than your hood.
Seriously though, it shouldn't be a problem as long as your have your filter in place. The small amount of water that gets sucked in will get stopped by the filter2) I did the FRA a while ago will I have to seal that now?
Yes, otherwise you don't have a sealed airbox. Either buy a new plastic shroud to replace the one you cut, or seal a piece of black plastic in the bottom of your airbox.
3) Do u know where I can get step by step instructions on this?
Nope. I can't find anything online anywhere, and I've been looking for info on this since July 2002. If you find something, please share it with us
4) After I do this do u think I should get Stealth Air box or just keep the lid I have now?
Personally, I'd keep the aftermarket lid you've got. $300 for a stealth air box? It better roll over and kiss me in the morning.
===========
Booradley -- nope, I've never taken air temp samples. However, working for the fire department, I can tell you that in a fire environment, there can be 200 degrees difference in heat just by going up or down 12 inches. So I have no reason to doubt that air coming off the pavement would be different (not that extreme, however) Even if it's just 10 degrees, that's 10 degrees cooler than what's right on the pavement.
With the typical cold-air setup that scoops air from under the bumper cover, you're not even a foot off the ground. You're pulling that air from mere inches above the sticky asphalt. (I know, you're going to say that NASCAR does it and it works for them, but they're also travelling at a much higher rate of speed)
If anyone has the means to measure actual air intake temps by pulling air at different heights above the pavement, I'd love to see the results. My info is based on something I read a couple of years ago, but it seems logical enough for me.
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