Where/what is a good 383 kit?
Where/what is a good 383 kit?
My motor crapped out on me with a connecting rod knocking. Since its almost cheaper to buy a new engine than to rebuild to original, I want to cough up the extra money and go bigger. Can anyone give me advice on the best bang for the buck and good, proven brands/parts? I'm looking to spend around $2500 on parts.
If I were you, I wouldn't go the 383 LS1 route because it makes the motor undersquared.
When you look at blockwork and everything else, it's basically the same price to put together a 402 LS2 or 408 LQ9 motor. You'll need new pistons (.005" over), rods, and crank for the 383....a full bottom end...just like the 402 or 408.
The only real difference is buying an LQ9 or LS2 block, but if you sell your stock LS1 stuff, you can make up the difference easily enough. Also, you don't need a bore or hone with the 4.00" bore stuff like you do with the .005" over LS1 block, so you save money on machine work there as well if you want to cut costs.
Anyway, you aren't going to find an LS1 forged reciprocating assembly for that price. Maybe an LT1, but the LS1 stuff starts at around $3000 for forged internals.
The Eagle bottom-end costs around $2900 for everything balanced. Then you add another $800 or so for the block work, then another $800 to build the motor, plus whatever it costs to R&R it ($700+), etc unless you're doing the work yourself (please don't do it again.
)
Mike
When you look at blockwork and everything else, it's basically the same price to put together a 402 LS2 or 408 LQ9 motor. You'll need new pistons (.005" over), rods, and crank for the 383....a full bottom end...just like the 402 or 408.
The only real difference is buying an LQ9 or LS2 block, but if you sell your stock LS1 stuff, you can make up the difference easily enough. Also, you don't need a bore or hone with the 4.00" bore stuff like you do with the .005" over LS1 block, so you save money on machine work there as well if you want to cut costs.
Anyway, you aren't going to find an LS1 forged reciprocating assembly for that price. Maybe an LT1, but the LS1 stuff starts at around $3000 for forged internals.
The Eagle bottom-end costs around $2900 for everything balanced. Then you add another $800 or so for the block work, then another $800 to build the motor, plus whatever it costs to R&R it ($700+), etc unless you're doing the work yourself (please don't do it again.
)Mike
No I'm NOT doing this myself, at least not the rebuild, I am currently pulling the engine myself, they wanted around 1800 in labor alone for that. The machine shop wants 1100 for the rebuild (estimated with machine work) and it'll cost me 2900 for a bottom end so I'm thinking when its all done around $5000?So an Eagle rotating assembly is probably the way to go?
For the cost you just quoted on the rebuild and bottom end you could buy a 408 short block from TSP and have $500 left over to cover shipping.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=46&catid=28
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=46&catid=28
No I'm NOT doing this myself, at least not the rebuild, I am currently pulling the engine myself, they wanted around 1800 in labor alone for that. The machine shop wants 1100 for the rebuild (estimated with machine work) and it'll cost me 2900 for a bottom end so I'm thinking when its all done around $5000?So an Eagle rotating assembly is probably the way to go?
$1800 for an R&R is absolutely ridiculous. You're looking at $1000 max from an LS1-oriented shop.
Mike
For the cost you just quoted on the rebuild and bottom end you could buy a 408 short block from TSP and have $500 left over to cover shipping.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=46&catid=28
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=46&catid=28
The texas speed 408 sounds like the best deal considering thats not much more than a stock LS1. Do you think I can get a discount for ordering extras and being a CZ28 member?
And what else will I have to buy with this, new head bolts/studs and head gaskets? I'd saearch more but I dont have a computer at home anymore, and up at work they trip the **** out when they catch someone browsing..
And what else will I have to buy with this, new head bolts/studs and head gaskets? I'd saearch more but I dont have a computer at home anymore, and up at work they trip the **** out when they catch someone browsing..
But if you buy multiple items, and expensive ones at that, they may work with you on the pricing - they did for me
The texas speed 408 sounds like the best deal considering thats not much more than a stock LS1. Do you think I can get a discount for ordering extras and being a CZ28 member?
And what else will I have to buy with this, new head bolts/studs and head gaskets? I'd saearch more but I dont have a computer at home anymore, and up at work they trip the **** out when they catch someone browsing..
And what else will I have to buy with this, new head bolts/studs and head gaskets? I'd saearch more but I dont have a computer at home anymore, and up at work they trip the **** out when they catch someone browsing..

Mike
TSP 408 is the best way to go...Don't have to wait for a machine shop or anything like that, plus it'll probably end up being cheaper...Of course, you won't want to just bolt back on your LS1 heads to that, so might as well get yourself some good ported heads, and a Fast intake...I see you have some heads, but not quite sure which ones...
Also, i've seen many dealings in the past with TSP taking forever to get a shortblock to you, so make sure they have it in stock ready to go
Also, i've seen many dealings in the past with TSP taking forever to get a shortblock to you, so make sure they have it in stock ready to go
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



