Some people say that a clutch will just break and some say they start "slipping", then break. Honestly, the car has never "slipped" (I think that means it tachs up but doesn't speed up) but the clutch peddle sometimes stays close to the floor with a lot of slack. Anyways, I'm worried about it. There are no weird sounds or smells yet. The fluid is pretty close to the top, it's kind of a weird reservoir to me because once you put that black piece of rubber in, THEN it rises. The car's got 42,000 on the clock. Any advice?

 

What's happening to you sounds like a combination of bad hydraulics, and you glazing your clutch, or the clutch just plain sticking.

First off, the hydraulics in these cars sucks, especially the slave and master cylinders. But your car already has the "updated" slave, or at least it should. But your master on the other hand, it's junk. It's a huge restriction in the hydraulic system.

Second, it sounds like your clutch is sticking. Lemme guess, the only time this happens is either after a hrd launch, or after some hard shifts, right? If so, your clutch is glazing. What that means is, it's more or less getting itself hot enough to melt to iteself momentarily, therefor keeping your pedal stuck to the floor unitl it releases. Sucks, huh? lol

That little balck thing that goes into your clutch fluid reservoir, underneath the cap, is there for a reason. Like you said, when you put it in, the fluid rises. Well, it's supposed to do that to keep an airtight seal. Air in your hydraulic system is a bad think!!

In my opinion, if you're going to do ANY serious driving whatsoeever, that you go ahead and upgrade your whole cutch set-up, slave cylinder, and master cylinder to an adjustable version that has had the drill mod done to it.

 

Appreciate the reply! I agree, I'm gonna have to get another one sooner or later. Sucky, 'cuz I'm all kinds of broke right now. Oh well.

what kind of clutch would be recommended for a normal daily driver car (not a track car)?

 

If it's just gonna be a daily driver, then you can't beat the ZO6 clutch kit for the price, but, it won't stand up to very much abuse at all.

You could always go with a RAM 402 pressure plate, and one of their 3 series clutch discs, which are just a lil more agressive than stock, and just have your stock flywheel resurfaced. It shouldn't be too costly.

Here's the pressure plate: here

And the disc I would recommend for everyday drivng, light performance: here

But I would get the 310M, which they don't have a picture of. You could get all that for $300, then have your flywheel resurfaced by a reputable machine shop for around $20.

Next, you'll need an adjustable master, and they range anywhere from $100-$200. With the stock modified versions being cheaper, and the Mcleod all new beefier billet version being $200.

That would be my budget upgrade route.

 

Here's a little quick test you can do to see if you're clutch is slipping.

Drive about 30mph...shift into 6th gear and floor the accelerator. Your car should seriously bog. Your car should gradually increase in speed. If your rpms shoot up then your clutch is bad...replace it as soon as you can.

 

Yep, If I lug mine at about 45-55 in 4th or so, the rpms just shoot right up...I am replacing mine with an SLP Pressure Plate, and Spec Stage 3 disc....

 

Brian, you mentioned simply buying the Z06 clutch kit. What (approximately) do those run?

Ya see, my problem is that I know VERY little about clutches so I would be shaky buying various parts separately. (As much as I'd like to)

The route I'll probably end up taking is just a new Z06 clutch assembly...

I really appreciate the info guys.

 

i have the spec stage 3 ceramic clutch...its sweet youll be happy

 

No problem Mark, here ya go: ZO6 clutch kit

That's everything you'll need right there. Cheap too!

 

get them at my sponsor he has a great deal on ceramic clutch star spec stage 3.......


tell him i(henry) sent u

 

Thanks, both of you guys for the links to the deals! They're both bookmarked.

Brian, exactly what else would I need to buy along with that Z06 assembly. Slave cylinder? Master cylinder?

I'm an idiot.

 

If you're going to go with the ZO6 clutch kit, then you won't need anything, as your car already has the newer model slave in it, and you really don't need an adj. master on a stock-style clutch. So you should be just fine with the kit alone.

 

Awesome. This might not cost as much as I thought it would. What, $250 for labor? Excellent info guys, this thread has been extremely informative to me.