I really believe in these kerosene based engine flusdh treatments, you know the ones you put in your oil just before a change, drive around for 15 minutes or so, change your oil and it's suppoese to clean out all the sludge and clean the valves and all. I use Gunk's Valve Medic today, the oil had only 2,000 miles on it and was transparent but it was 5 months old, but after I did the flush it was black as crude! I really believe in these things, if the engine is cleaner it will run smoother and cooler and the oil will flow better.

Just putting new oil in the motor makes it run much smoother at high rpm's.

I like using Lucas oil additive but it is so expensive now but it is really good stuff and probably worth it, definitly in the winter.

i used to use Marvels mystersy oil in the fuel for a while but I think it fouls the O2 sensors and throws codes. So now I just use it in the bike.

I've been riding the bike all summer so the car gets very little miles.

What kind of stuff do you all use??

 

Seafoam 3 way treatment every 50k miles or so.

As far as additives none. I use good synthetic motor oil and name brand fuel.

 

Motor

Royal purple 5W-30
Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer

Fuel

Gasoline
Lucas fuel injector cleaner every oil change

Trans (T56)

Lucas ATF


Rear differential

Royal purple synthetic gear oil




I don't use engine oil cleaners for this simple fact... I use synthetic oils. They have a lot of detergents in them that makes engine oil flushing cause more harm then good. When I replaced my Jeep's leaking valve cover gasket I saw how nice the valve train looked even after 130,000 miles. I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic and the PO used Pennzoil synthetic and Mobil 1 synthetic.


The only reason I have added Lucas to the engine oil is simple... the oil stabilizer seems to help hot oil to remain on parts after regular oil would fling off. The same concept as bar and chain oil for your chainsaw keeps the whole chain lubricated where regular oil will fling off. I know for a fact Lucas will permanently ruin wet clutch plates in a bike. They become permanently lubricated no matter how much you wash them in parts cleaner... A customer found that out the hard way. His intentions where good but it resulted in a bike that could not even climb a hill. I have seen a lot of gimmicky things (*cough* Zmax *cough* *cough*)... but this is the only one I can actually do a test at home and see some results.

 

that's cool. i've never taken a car engine apart before, but I did work for volvo powertrain in Disel engines for 3 years, and now that I think about it, the test engines were always very clean when we took them apart after testing.

Mechanics tell me that you can sub a quart of motor oil for ATF to get your engine really clean because it has much more detergent than oil.

But i did notice some burnt oil build up under my oil cap which made me wonder if that was on the inside of the engine too.

when I take down the trans pan to change the filter everything is very clean in there, cleaner than new.

I'm realizing that all this nonsense on TV about oil sluge and build-up is a sales tatic, but advertising does work because like Adolf HItler and Edward Bernays said, if you repeat a lie enough times people will begin to belive it, that is how advertising and government work.

 

well there is such a thing as sludge build up and it could cause a problem... however with modern oils having modern detergents it isn't all that common. Maybe if you use lawnmower oil or .79 cents/qt oil or something.