warped rotors
#2
Depends on ow bad they are.
Lightly warped = a surge at slow speeds, like right when you are coming to a complete stop.
Heavy = try braking at 65 & watch your steering wheel shake !
Pretty much a given on the LS1 F's - dunno about prior ('97 & earlier) cars.
I bought some drilled & slotted rotors from a local speed shop for $ 89.00 each - great so far.
I have also heard of good luck w/ the Auto Zone rotors.
Britt
Heavy = try braking at 65 & watch your steering wheel shake !
Pretty much a given on the LS1 F's - dunno about prior ('97 & earlier) cars.
I bought some drilled & slotted rotors from a local speed shop for $ 89.00 each - great so far.
I have also heard of good luck w/ the Auto Zone rotors.
Britt
#3
I had the same problem, warrenty replaced them 2 times, and turned each set one time. But on the 4th (with only 13000 miles on the clock) time they gave me a bunch of crap about bad driving habits and said they would not cover another set. so when they warped for a 5th time i replaced them with a set of auto zones. I have only had them on for about 300 miles, but so far so good. If i had the money i would get some powerslots or something.
and yes. what NEWBIE T/A described is exactly what warped rotors feel like.
and yes. what NEWBIE T/A described is exactly what warped rotors feel like.
#4
Napa makes a good stock replacement rotor too. I've heard from guys that go back after wheels are bolted up and check the torque of the lugs say they never had a problem, but thats too much work. For the price of these vehicles and the performance they produce, I expect better. I never had to retorque my lugs of my 70 SS and in over 11 years of owning and racing it have never had warped rotors.
#5
Torquing the lugs to proper specification is absolutely essential in preventing rotor warpage. Cars made in the early '70's have components made with much greater mass, so proper lug nut torque was not nearly as critical as on the newer vehicles.
#7
Welcome to the brakeing world of GM. Mine warped soon after purchace. Had them turned and they gave me the same excuse as discussed above. Replaced with a set of after market blanks with no problems but am now running a set of KVR slotted rotors. No worries now.
#8
What you guys are feeling is not the rotors fault.
It's amazing that almost nobody knows this, but it's the pads fault. What is happening is that the pads are getting hot and imbedding material into the rotors. Actually it's changing the compostion of the rotors. Cementite forms in the rotors and that's what it causing your problem.
Read this:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Then go to autozone, pick up two new front rotors. Then pick out a set of high quality pads like EBC Greenstuff, or Hawk HPS or even Performance Friction Pads. Drop that stuff on your car and beat the snot out of it.
Within about 2000 miles my SS started the "warped rotor" syndrome. Now I have AutoZone Rotors on the front, Hawk HPS pads all the way around and it's @ 40,000 miles with no problems. I can and have done 10-20 stops from 120mph to 0 got back on it and did it again. Barely any fade and it never caused the the problem again.
If you have a problem and it keeps coming back, you didn't fix it you just started over. Better pads is the solution. I'm still amazed that GM put such ****ty pads on the F-bodies, but if you haven't screwed up the rotors yet, then all you have to do is put some new (better) pads on.
Bret
It's amazing that almost nobody knows this, but it's the pads fault. What is happening is that the pads are getting hot and imbedding material into the rotors. Actually it's changing the compostion of the rotors. Cementite forms in the rotors and that's what it causing your problem.
Read this:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Then go to autozone, pick up two new front rotors. Then pick out a set of high quality pads like EBC Greenstuff, or Hawk HPS or even Performance Friction Pads. Drop that stuff on your car and beat the snot out of it.
Within about 2000 miles my SS started the "warped rotor" syndrome. Now I have AutoZone Rotors on the front, Hawk HPS pads all the way around and it's @ 40,000 miles with no problems. I can and have done 10-20 stops from 120mph to 0 got back on it and did it again. Barely any fade and it never caused the the problem again.
If you have a problem and it keeps coming back, you didn't fix it you just started over. Better pads is the solution. I'm still amazed that GM put such ****ty pads on the F-bodies, but if you haven't screwed up the rotors yet, then all you have to do is put some new (better) pads on.
Bret
#9
The pad theory sounds good, expect I have been running stock pads on my LG Motorsports G-Stop brakes for the past 20K miles with no signs of "warpage". But if I did not upgrade to the LG brakes, I would be running AutoZone rotors (which I did on my '98). For $39 each, they are a steal and are very durable.
#12
Originally posted by Greed4Speed
Troll....
Troll....
#13
Thats funny, since the OEM stuff is whats warping under the same driving conditions. Since you can get rid of the stock crap and not have the problem anymore, logically that means its the OEM stuff that is the problem, and it isn't just f-bodies. Apparently logic isn't your strong point.
You don't know me, you don't know how I drive so you can NOT assume I break "like a retard." I have a CDL and I transport hazardous materials, still want to talk about knowing how to drive? I've been driving and racing for over 16 years, thats drag and dirt track racing. I had been driving a 12.90 to 13.36 ET car since '91 that NEVER had any warping issues. Actually I got it when I was 19 so it saw far worse breaking conditions that my newer SS.
Who are you that you can decide who is a good driver and who isn't based on warped rotors?
You don't know me, you don't know how I drive so you can NOT assume I break "like a retard." I have a CDL and I transport hazardous materials, still want to talk about knowing how to drive? I've been driving and racing for over 16 years, thats drag and dirt track racing. I had been driving a 12.90 to 13.36 ET car since '91 that NEVER had any warping issues. Actually I got it when I was 19 so it saw far worse breaking conditions that my newer SS.
Who are you that you can decide who is a good driver and who isn't based on warped rotors?
Last edited by Greed4Speed; 10-31-2003 at 12:30 PM.
#14
ur cdl has nothing to do with it...i dont care how you drive, or how long u have been driving.
i've never had a problem with brakes or with my rotors warping. all i use is OEM equip. guess u got bad luck with the junk you buy, or its the way u drive. end of story.
i've never had a problem with brakes or with my rotors warping. all i use is OEM equip. guess u got bad luck with the junk you buy, or its the way u drive. end of story.
#15
That's a pretty ignorant comment.
Originally posted by whoa guy
ur cdl has nothing to do with it...i dont care how you drive, or how long u have been driving.
i've never had a problem with brakes or with my rotors warping. all i use is OEM equip. guess u got bad luck with the junk you buy, or its the way u drive. end of story.
ur cdl has nothing to do with it...i dont care how you drive, or how long u have been driving.
i've never had a problem with brakes or with my rotors warping. all i use is OEM equip. guess u got bad luck with the junk you buy, or its the way u drive. end of story.
Period. End of Story.
My '99 T/A got to 16K before it happened - I fared well, except that I had to argue to get them turned under warranty as brake components are a "wear" item only covered 'til 12K ...
My 2nd Gen T/A's & Camaros never had this problem, nor any of the umpteen other cars I have owned, so I believe I can speak for most of us on this section of the board when I refute your prior comments.
Britt