tranny rebuild time, please read...
tranny rebuild time, please read...
Hey, what tranny do you guys think I should run? My TC burned up my tranny, and I am thinking of getting my 4L60E built. Good move or bad one? Supposedly there is a guy in town that can rebuild it. What do I need to know assuming I know NOTHING about trannies? Right now, my car won't shift passed 2nd. Threw a code about some kind of shifter solenoid messed up or something. My tranny fluid is DARK red, and was just changed last week, so I think it's burned up. Anyone know how much hp/tq a built 4L60E can handle and how much it SHOULD cost me? I need to get it done pretty soon, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Well from what I have heard, that a Built 4L60 and 4L60E, if they are built up w/ more clutches in the Clutch packs can handle up too 1500 HP (these numbers are from a Tranny Rebuilder in My area).. The last tranny he did was for a friend of mine but it was 700r4 (4L60) and it ran him $ 1500 for the rebuild.. I hope you just blew your 3 - 4 clutch pack because if a solenoid in the valve body is blown be prepared for a high bill... Last I heard (which was about 1 year ago) that the solenoids run from anywhere $ 100 - 500 a piece but not too sure about that... Otherwise you can get a new tranny from GM for around $ 1800 - 2000... but you have to give them your old tranny for core... Last Auto Tranny I priced from Local Dealer was for a 4L80E (basically a TH400 w/ Overdrive) and it was $ 1800 plus $ 750 for Core Charge...
Charlie
Charlie
I'm planning on spending about $1800, but I want it to get built up right, so I won't have to rebuild after my SC, heads and cam. That's all I'm asking is if it would be stupid to get my 4L60E rebuilt, because there is a guy in town that can do it pretty good supposedly. Thanks.
Originally posted by Michael Ozorowsky
I'm planning on spending about $1800, but I want it to get built up right, so I won't have to rebuild after my SC, heads and cam. That's all I'm asking is if it would be stupid to get my 4L60E rebuilt, because there is a guy in town that can do it pretty good supposedly. Thanks.
I'm planning on spending about $1800, but I want it to get built up right, so I won't have to rebuild after my SC, heads and cam. That's all I'm asking is if it would be stupid to get my 4L60E rebuilt, because there is a guy in town that can do it pretty good supposedly. Thanks.
Charlie
Originally posted by Michael Ozorowsky
I just put in a brand new Yank PY3600E verter. That is a $1000 verter, and you want me to replace it again?
I just put in a brand new Yank PY3600E verter. That is a $1000 verter, and you want me to replace it again?
I agree w/ AL SS590 M6, if there is metal shavings/chunks in your tranny fluid, then send the converter back and have Yank cut it apart, clean and inspect the inside of the converter and weld it back up..
Well usually a lot of tranny rebuilders will say replace it but since you just bought it and there is metal in the fluid and tranny pan, then it is worth spending a couple of hundred to get your TC cleaned because you don't want to install a TC that has metal inside because it will cause your tranny to blow again quickly.. Trust me, a shop I used to work at, the owner had one of his employees rebuild a 700r4 for his 85 K5 Blazer, and the owner did not buy a new TC, well 2 days later, the tranny had to be rebuilt again and the owner decided to buy a new TC afterall.... so 2 rebuilds and 1 new converter, when he could have just spent the extra money in the first place and buy a new TC and not have to rebuild the tranny a 2nd time...
Charlie
Well usually a lot of tranny rebuilders will say replace it but since you just bought it and there is metal in the fluid and tranny pan, then it is worth spending a couple of hundred to get your TC cleaned because you don't want to install a TC that has metal inside because it will cause your tranny to blow again quickly.. Trust me, a shop I used to work at, the owner had one of his employees rebuild a 700r4 for his 85 K5 Blazer, and the owner did not buy a new TC, well 2 days later, the tranny had to be rebuilt again and the owner decided to buy a new TC afterall.... so 2 rebuilds and 1 new converter, when he could have just spent the extra money in the first place and buy a new TC and not have to rebuild the tranny a 2nd time...
Charlie
Well, THERE'S some good news. Fluid smells like regular tranny fluid. Also, haven't gotten around to dropping pan yet. Maybe I'll do it this Sun. Check the pan for metal shavings. So you guys are saying that if there's not metal shavings, I'm golden, right? Also, where can I pick up the shifter solenoids? And finally, do you think a tranny rebuild is something I could grab a book and do myself, or should I without a doubt have someone do it? Let me know, thanks.
Originally you said to assume that you know nothing about trannys-----well, I'll assume you know SOMETHING about trannys and tell you to forget about trying to rebuild your own (hidden springs, bearings,plungers, etc.) Be careful about the term "shavings"-----you're always going to have a little bit of metallic material in used fluid. What you want to make sure you don't have is granuals that feel like sand in the fluid, or larger particals, obviously. After you drop the pan, you should have plenty of fluid left in it. Just kinda drag your fingers along the bottom of the pan, especially around the pan magnet to feel for the grit. Ideally you shouldn't feel any thing but fluid---even if you can see metal glimmering in the sunlight. And since I just now read that you had the fluid changed a week or so ago, I'd tell you to expect a nice leisurely tranny date on Sun. and not worry about too much; you got the shift solenoid code?....replace 'em BOTH and fuggetabottit. If you had the tranny fluid done by someone else, then I'd think they'd say something about any problems in this area. But, what's 10-12 bucks for new fluid when you're saving so much more to do your own solenoids, right?
Solenoids are held in place with 1 snap clip per sol. They are located in the valve body at the rear of the valve body, they are interchangeable, and you need to be careful when pulling the wire harness off because you don't want to break off the lock tabs. Lastly, one of the solenoids is spring loaded, so hold both of them securely while removing them-----AND-----make sure you replace them one at a time so you can keep stuff simple. Have fun, it's a cakewalk.
Solenoids are held in place with 1 snap clip per sol. They are located in the valve body at the rear of the valve body, they are interchangeable, and you need to be careful when pulling the wire harness off because you don't want to break off the lock tabs. Lastly, one of the solenoids is spring loaded, so hold both of them securely while removing them-----AND-----make sure you replace them one at a time so you can keep stuff simple. Have fun, it's a cakewalk.
Hey Siggy. That is only if there are metal shavings in there. I'm gonna drop my car off at my mom's soon and see if there is metal there. It threw a code about a shifter solenoid, so I'm gonna replace those to see if that fixes my prob. Why not try and start with the simple idea, right? 2 questions from here: 1) Where can I pick up the shifter solenoids? Pep Boys? Auto Zone? and 2) anyone know of a write-up online on how to replace these, possibly with pictures? Thanks.
Originally posted by amood
You must be thinking of something other than shift solenoids---just did mine 1 1/2 weeks ago. Both solenoids came to about $40, and cost about an extra 10 min. to install during tranny fluid check and drain.
You must be thinking of something other than shift solenoids---just did mine 1 1/2 weeks ago. Both solenoids came to about $40, and cost about an extra 10 min. to install during tranny fluid check and drain.
And when I was talking about chunks of metal I was talking about pretty good size chunks and sandy film inside... Now when a TH400 Blew on me, it had chunks of the Clutchpacks laying inside the pan and the about 1 - 2" of thick black residue, plus with that Tranny, I changed the Oil and Filter every 9 - 12K Miles...
Burnt Tranny Fluid Smells pretty nasty worse then Fresh Gear Oil but not as bad as Burnt Gear Oil (75w140)...
Just as long as the fluid is clean smelling and the pan does not have any Metal Chunks (large) or any thing that feels like Sand, then do amood says...
Charlie
ok guys dropped the tranny pan today, and found no metal chunks. There was some black stuff on the bottom, but fluid wasn't really burnt/didn't smell too bad. Do you think it is worth trying to replace the shifter solenoids? I am guessing it COULD be those, but want some second opinions. Let me know, thanks.
Originally posted by Michael Ozorowsky
ok guys dropped the tranny pan today, and found no metal chunks. There was some black stuff on the bottom, but fluid wasn't really burnt/didn't smell too bad. Do you think it is worth trying to replace the shifter solenoids? I am guessing it COULD be those, but want some second opinions. Let me know, thanks.
ok guys dropped the tranny pan today, and found no metal chunks. There was some black stuff on the bottom, but fluid wasn't really burnt/didn't smell too bad. Do you think it is worth trying to replace the shifter solenoids? I am guessing it COULD be those, but want some second opinions. Let me know, thanks.
Charlie


