Track times with TCI 3200 converter
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12
From: Tulsa, OK
Track times with TCI 3200 converter
12.88 @ 104.91 with a 1.84, but then...
12.82 @105.11 with a 1.83 60
Pretty pleased with that for now. That is without stalling it up on the launch. Anytime I stalled it up to 1500 I'd roast the poor 245 Nittos. The tires were plenty warm and set at 18lbs too, I boiled 'em in my burnouts (car being as low as it is doesn't help things). I think with some BFG's or ET streets I could stall it up to 2000 and pull a 1.7 60 to a 12.7 or maybe better. Need to lose some weight too, running with my heavy *** ZR1's up front and no weight reduction minus spare/jack.
Not bad for a small converter, that's around .6-.7 better than what I was running without it a couple weeks ago. The weather was great, but it's gonna get even cooler. Now time for headers/ORY.
12.82 @105.11 with a 1.83 60
Pretty pleased with that for now. That is without stalling it up on the launch. Anytime I stalled it up to 1500 I'd roast the poor 245 Nittos. The tires were plenty warm and set at 18lbs too, I boiled 'em in my burnouts (car being as low as it is doesn't help things). I think with some BFG's or ET streets I could stall it up to 2000 and pull a 1.7 60 to a 12.7 or maybe better. Need to lose some weight too, running with my heavy *** ZR1's up front and no weight reduction minus spare/jack.
Not bad for a small converter, that's around .6-.7 better than what I was running without it a couple weeks ago. The weather was great, but it's gonna get even cooler. Now time for headers/ORY.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 357
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Nice times, especially with that trap
A little advice from personal experience. I just got a Midwest 3500 stall put in a few weeks ago, and until then, had never driven a stalled car...let alone launch one. To top it off, I picked the car up from the shop in the rain, so I got no prior learning before going to the track the next day.
That being said, I learned to launch that day at the track, and how to drive with one by running around the parking lot prior to the event. Here's what got me the best times:
Hold the brake hard, and stall it a bit to 1200ish. This will "load" the rear end of the car. Stall the converter to 1800 if possible(I know you said 1500 was the max, but give me a minute). Just sit there and wait for the lights to drop. On the 2nd yellow, hammer the gas. On the last yellow, let off the brakes. If you get the timing right, you'll flash the stall right at the last light going out and hit the beam at full torque. It's all about keeping your foot in it from there
Now, you said 18psi in the tires. Even with Nittos and 17s, I'd recommend 14psi for the track. This allows for some extra flex in what sidewall you have, and allows for a bigger footprint not only for grip, but for allowing you to attempt the 1800 stall since it's a bit harder to break loose the tires that if you were running 18psi. Try it next time you get a chance.
As for me, I was cutting consistant low 1.7s, and the best of 1.65. I wrinkled the walls of my BFGs a few times
A little advice from personal experience. I just got a Midwest 3500 stall put in a few weeks ago, and until then, had never driven a stalled car...let alone launch one. To top it off, I picked the car up from the shop in the rain, so I got no prior learning before going to the track the next day.
That being said, I learned to launch that day at the track, and how to drive with one by running around the parking lot prior to the event. Here's what got me the best times:
Hold the brake hard, and stall it a bit to 1200ish. This will "load" the rear end of the car. Stall the converter to 1800 if possible(I know you said 1500 was the max, but give me a minute). Just sit there and wait for the lights to drop. On the 2nd yellow, hammer the gas. On the last yellow, let off the brakes. If you get the timing right, you'll flash the stall right at the last light going out and hit the beam at full torque. It's all about keeping your foot in it from there
Now, you said 18psi in the tires. Even with Nittos and 17s, I'd recommend 14psi for the track. This allows for some extra flex in what sidewall you have, and allows for a bigger footprint not only for grip, but for allowing you to attempt the 1800 stall since it's a bit harder to break loose the tires that if you were running 18psi. Try it next time you get a chance.
As for me, I was cutting consistant low 1.7s, and the best of 1.65. I wrinkled the walls of my BFGs a few times
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teedoff59
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Aug 8, 2002 01:36 AM