I've got a 2001 Formula. At normal operating temperature, I get a slight knock at 4200 rpm's and above. I have been told by a few different sources that it is because of the heat of the engine and coolant. I have cleaned the fuel system, and have only run premium fuel. I had the dealer and a local speed shop verify the operating temperature, and it is correct. The dealer told me "that's just the way it is" when I showed them my dyno chart, and he saw the line above 4200 when the knock sensor kicked in. It's starting to bug the heck out of me, as I really like the way the car runs up to just short of normal operating temps.

My question is this..If I wanted to cool it down, which is the best solution? Lower stat, hypertech programming to get the fans to come on quicker, or cooler plugs as reccommended by AMS. Or a combination of these. I'm happy w/ my dyno numbers 307/331, but I'm just tired of the d*mn thing knocking when I get on it. And it's not a bad knock or anything, but it is noticeable. Suggestions please. Also, if I get the hypertech programming, what else can that thing do for a M6?

 

Its a ping right? Its detonation, not some other knock that could be a bearing problem or something right? The only reason I ask is because most people describe detonation as a ping and knock is ussually used to desribe louder more hollow sound related to some mechanical problem. Mechanical knocks also cause the knock sensor to retard timing because it thinks there is detonation. Some people have said their exhuast banging on the underside of the car has caused the knock sensor to retard timing. Anyway,assuming we are talking about detonation, I would go with a lower thermostat and reprogram for the fans to come on at the right temp. But the real solution is to find the cause. Why is your car having detonation at the normal temp when others are not? Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber could create hot spots. Maybe try GM top engine clean first. Its only like 5 bucks for a can I think. One last thought - I think a lean a/f mixture will cause heat/detonation. Have you checked to see if its lean? Just a thought. Good luck

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2002 Camaro SS #2288 M6
!CAGS
Stock Dyno Run with 5,460 miles:
RWHP 302
RWTQ 320

 

Sorry for the confusion, yes it is definetly detonation, not a bearing. I cleaned the system w/ the GM Fuel sys cleaner I picked up when I had it in for them to check out. The only time it happens is when I'm on it above 4200 or so, and when the engine is up to temperature (runs real nice all the way up when it's about 180 or so). The dealer told me that the knocking was a normal occurance due to the high temperatures that GM designed the engine to run at. Not accepting that my engine was designed to knock, I took it to AMS here in Arlington to see what they thought. And to my suprise, they AGREED!. However they also faulted the factory platinum plugs, which run pretty hot and are better for emmissions apparently, and they recommended NGK TR6's or 55's I believe.

So the jist of it is, the engine knocks because it runs too hot, although the operating temperature has been confirmed to be "normal". It happened on the dyno run in Feb, when the temp was like 40 degrees, so it's not a summer thing. Basically I'm wanting to cool it down to save the engine (and to heck w/ the emmissions), and I'm just trying to find out the best way to go.

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2001 Formula
307RWHP/331RWTQ

Direct-Flo w/ Holley
!MAF screen
FRA
Flowmaster
Kirban Kwik Six
SLP STB and SFC's

 

It would be my opinion that your lid combined with the low restriction filter and no maf screen are causing a slight lean condition in the heat. I would definetly get a 160 thermo, go with Hypertech I am not that impressed with my SLP unit. You may want to consider a SLP radiator, they claim up to 50% more cooling. As I live in AZ I am getting one soon on a GP from www.azpowerandsound.com. Another thing you need is a MAFT, this is what I currently use to richen up the mixture to avoid pinging here in AZ when it's hot. When it cools off I'll lean it back out and reclaim my power!

So go order your Thermo and MAFT today! The radiator is about 260$ on the GP, but the more we get the lower it could go.

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2002 Camaro SS #3586 6M Sebring Silver, T-top, Billet Grille, Hurst shifter, !CAGS, Whisper CF Lid, Holly PowerShot filter, Corsa Catback w/full polish tips, 160 Thermo, SLP fan switch, ASR reverser, TA axle cover w/stud kit, MAFT, NX wet kit(150)purge,heater,remote opener, FPSS,MSD WS, Autometer gages, Hotchkis STB, LCA's, APHR.

Baseline Dyno: 317.9RWHP 335.9RWTQ with MAF ends only: 325.6RWHP 350RWTQ. (Stock)1st 1/4 mile 13.46 @106.9 2.23-60'
new best 13.306 @107.89 2.12 60'
4-sale MAF ends....now using N20 so need to
ditch them.
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