how do you do it? What tools and parts are needed? How involved/time length of install? Anyone not satisfied with the mod?

 

It is easy to do. Took me 5 minutes. Check Installuniversity.com or LS1tech.com, I am sure they have directions. It is just a small hose into a brass fitting instead of the TB. If you want to avoid sorting out the fittings I have seen people selling kits on ebay for $5 or so, but you really don't need to buy one. To me this is one of the most reasonable mods for the LS1. I picked up 2 RWHP at the dyno, but that # may not be statistically significant!

Ed

 

I did the mod on both my cars and it's easy and quick. Living in Florida I don't need to be worried about my TB's freezing up.

 

I used a piece of 1/4" brake line, I cut one of the flared ends off and left the other. Then use 2 hose clamps. You can cap the line into the TB if you want. I don't know that it does anything, but might as well it takes 5 min and about $5.

Brian

 

Is the throttle body freezing up the only downside of this mod?

 

pretty much... though, I hear of people that leave bypassed during the cold winter up north and dont have a problem... though, if you leave where it gets cold, you can just swap it back for the winter.
most say that it gives a little gain... like 2-6 rwhp... but to me... I did it so the throttle body doesnt get so hot because then the air that enters the intake is warm...

 

Cool. It rarely gets below 60 anytime here so thats my next mod.

 

thanks for the info guys.

 

Yeah... There are numbers like that floating around...

 

Maybe its not a gain of 2-6 rwhp. But 2-6 your not losing to heat that you normally would.

Example: Lets say your car makes 300 rwhp when you first turn it on but after running for a while you make 294 rwhp because of the heat warming up the air. Therefore you aren't really gaining 2-6, but technically not losing the normal 2-6 rwhp. Thats my take on it. Feel free to correct me, I am new to the TB bypass mod.

 

Some Additional information. I Just did the bypass last night. If you do not want to spend $5 on e-bay or $15 !!!! for BMR's "kit" here is all you need:
(1) 3/8" barbed hose splicer
(2) 1/4" rubber screw protectors
You can re-use the hose clamps that are already on the car. These parts cost a total of about $1.70 and are available at any hardware store (got mine at home depot). One note that I haven't seen anybody mention - when you do this mod make sure the hose and clamps are not touching the pully just below the TB. The only difference between the "kits" and this way is that they also include 2 screw type hose clamps (which if you look at the install university page they didn't use anyway) and of course $3 to $13. Not sure why the guys at IU, who go to so much effort for everything else, thought this stuff was hard to find. anywho-

Good way of explaining it. That (as they say) hit the nail on the head.

One more thing. While I was staring at the wall of fittings and connections at home depot, looking for the right sized splicer (bought three different sizes just to be sure - returning the extras tonight), I had another idea for those of you in the cold north. You could buy two valves and some hose and put the shut off valves in line just before and just after the coolant enters and exits the engine. Turn the valves off in the warmer months and no coolant flows thru the TB. In the cold weather, turn the valves on and collant runs thru the TB just like stock.

 

great point...i did mine last night and found it was mm's away from rubbin gthe water pump pulley...i figured with a few ounces of antifreeze in the tube it would definitly hit so i went with some left over fuel hose i had and ran it along the fan wiring harness to the smaller 1/8in tubing...worked out much better and no worries of rubbing.

lata
Bill