That depends on the plans for the car. If you're going for bolt-on only or don't want a large cam, then you're still leaving power on the table w/out a tune. I got a tune after headers because I wanted to go !EGR & !AIR. It'll now only cost $50 to retune after my cam is installed.

People blow cash on O2 simulators when they could get them tuned out for less.

 

Well my next mod is gonna be pacesetter LT's with a catted y-pipe from TSP,then a stall converter any advice on one,and also get rid of the flowmaster and go with GMMG CB,and then a tune...after all said and done what will I average for gains with all this I currently have done the FRA,LID,and FLOWMASTER CB which I will replace with GMMG CB.

 

lid, LTs, orp, GMMG and a good tune.....330-340rwhp

 

Take it on the dyno, get a baseline, then mod car, see real world gains (or losses!)

 

Lemme see if I can help you. I think it's allready been established that right now you're probably around 310 rwhp. Could be more, could be less but that should be close.

Picking a converter should not be taken lightly. Are you going to go with a big cam in the future? Are you sticking with stock gears? Do you plan on ever spraying N20? Are you willing to run drag radials in the back? These all play a roll in picking the right stall speed.

A good stall size for most applications is 3500-3800. Reason is that range is streetable, good size for 100-150 shots of N20, mixes well with most mid size cams and is good with stock gears. So if you are looking for one of the best converters then I really like the Yank SS3600. Very streetable, good effiency and adapts well to most applications. But they are expensive as the best usually is. A great bang for the buck is the TCI SSF3500. Great converter, good customer service and they can be had for just under $500. Fuddle is a great bang for the buck converter as well. I would call Kevin @ TCI or John @ Fuddle if you have any further converter questions and especially if you plan on putting a cam in later on.

You woud probably benefit from a tune after the headers. My car was running dangerous lean after verter and headers went on. I gained 29 rwhp from my tune but mine was an extreme case. Normal gains from just a tune will be 10-15 rwhp. With the mods in my sig I dynoed 330 rwhp with converter locked. You would probably be closer to 335 rwhp since you have ls6 intake and I do not.

But I wouldn't be too worried about dyno numbers. Autos and high stalls eat HP. That's the nature of the beast. But autos and high stalls launch like a madman, shift fast and keep us in our powerband via high shift extensions. M6 cars love the dyno and highways while A4 cars love the drag strip and red lights that turn green

Good luck.

 

yea probably a mid size cam,no nitros and I will probably stick with stock gears...