subframes
10-28-2003, 03:15 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,697
subframes
what is the difference between the BMR weld in subframes and the SLP double diamond style weld in subframes.
I'll be running true duals, and I want lots of options for jacking points (you can jack the car up at any place on the weld in subframes right???) but I don't want them to get in the way of the duals.
Are the double diamond really that much different in performance and feeling? Enough to justify the higher price??
I'll be running true duals, and I want lots of options for jacking points (you can jack the car up at any place on the weld in subframes right???) but I don't want them to get in the way of the duals.
Are the double diamond really that much different in performance and feeling? Enough to justify the higher price??
10-28-2003, 07:19 AM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: US 1 Mile Marker 52 in the Florida Keys
Posts: 8,323
for extreme autoX or something like that you could probably benefit from the DD.
but for normal use, no way.
and as far as i know true duals prevent you from using the DD.
my bmr rock...plenty of install pics on my webpage in my sig..page 3 i think
but for normal use, no way.
and as far as i know true duals prevent you from using the DD.
my bmr rock...plenty of install pics on my webpage in my sig..page 3 i think
10-28-2003, 01:33 PM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: US 1 Mile Marker 52 in the Florida Keys
Posts: 8,323
it's really not that hard for a decent welder.
i got a REALLY good hook-up so i only paid $50 for mine. and it took a while since we had to remove the LCA's and scrape/wirebrush away the undercoating.
if you do all the prep work yourself it shouldn't be more than $100 or so.
just call around, i've heard stories of shops wanting $300!!!
i also was able to do some work on it myself while on the lift, like wirebrush and grind the welds, and then paint them.
just call around for pricing.
i got a REALLY good hook-up so i only paid $50 for mine. and it took a while since we had to remove the LCA's and scrape/wirebrush away the undercoating.
if you do all the prep work yourself it shouldn't be more than $100 or so.
just call around, i've heard stories of shops wanting $300!!!
i also was able to do some work on it myself while on the lift, like wirebrush and grind the welds, and then paint them.
just call around for pricing.
10-29-2003, 07:09 AM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: US 1 Mile Marker 52 in the Florida Keys
Posts: 8,323
bolt ons are alot more.
probably the cost of a set of bmr's and most of the install cost...
there are disadvantages to the bolt ins as well.
some guys talk of the bolt holes lengthening with age, causing movement in the connectors and no longer providing the support. that is why a car developes squeaks and rattles, flex of joints over time, where the weld ins WONT move.
just call around some muffler shops, tell them what you need done and see what they say.
probably the cost of a set of bmr's and most of the install cost...
there are disadvantages to the bolt ins as well.
some guys talk of the bolt holes lengthening with age, causing movement in the connectors and no longer providing the support. that is why a car developes squeaks and rattles, flex of joints over time, where the weld ins WONT move.
just call around some muffler shops, tell them what you need done and see what they say.
10-29-2003, 07:11 AM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: MI.
Posts: 257
SLP's web-site shows the bolt-on's cost $299.95 and the weld-on's at $199.95, the bolt-on's are powder coated and the weld-on's are just bare metal. You can get the SLP SFC cheaper by going to www.stealthperf.com . Here's a link on the install of the SLP bolt-on, http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm
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