Since I have "zero" experience with LS1's other than driving mine and reading off this board, I'm a little unsure of the facts about rebuilding (and stroking) them. My goal (long-term) for my car is to build a ~382 cu. in. (or bigger?? ) stroker engine, but since all I know are gen-I SBC's, I need some info on the LS1 from people who have actually rebuilt them and have built strokers out of them.

Through a friend of my dad's, I know where I can get a bare aluminum (LS1) block, heads, and oil-pan, but all the internals are missing.......................that's OK though, cause my plan is to replace 100% of the internals anyways. So................I have a couple main questions:

• 1 - do the blocks need to be clearanced the same as gen-I SBC's / gen-II LT1's, or (judging by a picture I saw of a stripped LS1 once) is the bottom end of the block already clearanced enough to accept a ~4" crankshaft??
• 2 - since the aluminum block uses steel sleeves, if the cylinders are worn significantly, do these sleeves have to be replaced?? or can they be "cleaned up" by being bored/honed out to ~4" from the stock 3.9"??
• 3 - (related to Q2) - if I had to replace the sleeves anyway, could 4" sleeves be bought/installed? (which would actually then make total displacement 402 cu. in. instead of 382 cu. in. with a 4" stroke) as opposed to stock 3.9" sleeves??

I am very serious about doing this one day, but before I go spending money on "potentially" redundant stuff, I want to do a little homework.

I appreciate any input / feedback you guys can give me. TIA

 

Pete,

Look me up when you plan to do this.


I am building a 383-387 LS1 right now and a Stroker looks like the way we might go.

I also just ripped a LS1 apart today so I have some of this fresh in my head.

1. You need to clearance the block just like a old SBC when you throw a arm at it.

2. You can't go any bigger than a .010 overbore on a LS1. There is almost no production engine that can go .100 over, there are alot of race blocks that can though. Think about 355 or 383, they are all only .030" over. You can resleave a al block, if you are going to it's only worth it if you plan to run more cubes. There are alot of companies doing large bore or "all bore" motors which use sleaves with bores from 4.100 to 4.125. So yes you can resleave, but it will run you $2K+ for the work

3. Yes 4" sleaves can be installed, but why. If you wanted a 408 then you can easily use a Iron Block 6.0L block and throw a 4" crank in it for a 4.030" x 4.000"

Go check out the LS1tech.com boards, that will get you up to speed on this.

When you plan to do this later on, give me a call. I'll help you out on this.

Bret

 

Thanks Bret!

I didn't realize it was that expensive to re-sleeve!? I guess I'll stick with the originals then?!...................but if I read you correctly, you're saying that you can have them machined ~.010" over-bore?? The reason I ask is because of the infamous LS1 "piston slap" (which my car suffers from big time! ) and apparently it's because of a slight over-bore right from the factory? (that's what I've read on here anyway? ) so when I do re-build the engine, I don't want to just hone the cylinders and put new pistons in, 'cause then I can just imagine the piston slap will probably be worse! (if it isn't bad enough already ).

Well, thanks for your quick response, and if anyone else has further input / thoughts / advice I'd appreciate it .

 

Well, actually you go from a 3.898 bore to a 3.905 bore. At that bore you have custom pistons made, that are Forged. The forged ones are worse at start up but they should cure the problem.

Basically increasing displacement with a resleave vs a stroker crank will cost $500-$1000 more

Bret

 

A question specific to the LS1 should be posted on LS1 Tech..... moving it there.