The WU8 on the door sticker tells if it's an SS. You can spend all you want on Hood, spoiler, wheels, badges, etc. If there is no WU8, it's not a true SS.

 

Nobody is disputing that, the LS1 is awesome

Exactly

 

OK, now I'm a little confused. I have the WU8 code on drivers door, but nothing that indicates my SS was ever a guest at SLP. It was my understanding that there is a whole array of mods SLP does, and unless you ordered yours through the dealer, it was a crap shoot as to what they put on it (exhaust, rims, airbox lid, etc).

I bought my 02 used, so I don't have the benefit of a sticker to fall back on. It was manufactured in Canada, but there isn't any SLP info on either door or door pillar, nor anything that refers to a build number.

Is there a way to check this out via my VIN#?

 

Call up SLP and give them the VIN#.

 

Katman, I think for 02 the SSs started off as SSs from the factory. The SS hoods and spoilers were put on in the St. Therese plant. SLP only did the Exhaust, Suspension, and stripes if applicable at their plant. Prior to 02, SLP did the hoods and spoilers too.

katman you can get the answers to your questions by registering at SLP's message board. They will give you your build number if you provide them your VIN.
http://www.hoodscoop.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi.

 

Well From what I understan you cannot buy SS Camaro Parts from SLP unless you give then the Vin# and it has to match up to a true ss... I know you can buy SS parts from other companys but they ar diffrent than the SLP parts... like the non functional hood.

 

Hey, just wondering how much did you pay for the crashed car including repair? Can you let me know what needed replacement too, im just curious.

 

I bought my 98 T/A back in 2000, it had 27998 miles on it and I paid $8200 for it. I spent roughly $4500 fixing it, for a grand total of $12,700 as a rough estimate. Back in 2000 that was a pretty good deal on an LS1. Check the pictures on my website for the before/after.

I had to replace both bumpers, driver fender, door, quarterpanel, rocker, axle shafts, power steering pump, frame rail, headlights, and some other miscellaneous stuff. We did all the work ourselves, BTW.

 

Unlike the Mustang, the hoodscoop on the SS is functional.




-----------------------------------------
1998 Black SS #1723 Hurst M6
!CAGS
MTI Lid w/K@N, NGK TR-55(@.059)
GMMG Chambered Exhaust

 

The PS cooler was standard equipment on my '00 Z28 convertible.

The '00 SS package only got the 32 mm front bar - the control arms were 'standard' Z28, as were the shocks and springs.


After the '98 model year, the SS package was installed by GM on the assembly line. SS parts are over-the-counter items (no VIN needed).

Q: Since the Z28/SS cars only went to SLP for some of the optional items, why does SLP issue the "build number"?

 

when you had the car fixed. did the car run as fast with an un crashed LS1. I am asking since I am planning on buying a crashed car and fixing it and want to hear from people who have done this? Do you have any problems with the car that would have otherwise not have occured had the accident not taken place. Thank you for your input.

 

About 6 months after my dad and I fixed the car I took it to the track, still bone stock. It ran 14.0's at around 101mph on balding tires with high 2.2 60' times (around 2.26-2.28). Now it runs in the 13.7's at mid 103's still on crappy tires and 2.1 60' times. It dyno's at 300.5rwhp and 308.6rwtq which isn't bad for a lightly modded A4 2.73 car. I have beaten my share of LS1's with it, WS6 and SS's alike; I have lost my share as well. If I could turn a decent 60' on a good track it should turn 13.5's, I'm not the best drag racer.

I have raced my dad's 99 Z28 Vert A4 2.73 ( http://www.geocities.com/sigmachi03/family.html ) two separate times and we were door-to-door both times. I am of the opinion that any pre-01 A4 car that is remotely stock will be a close race. I've never been slaughtered by an LS1, M6 or A4.

This has honestly been the most dependable car I've ever owned. The 96 V6 bird we fixed before my current car was a cash cow. That thing had numerous electrical problems (it was an undercarriage damage car) and would burn up ignition coils on a monthly basis it seems like. After the initial fix of my 98 T/A though, I have not had to replace one item on the car (besides the oil filter ). I've gone from 27998 miles when I bought it to 60,200 miles as it sits today in storage with no problems. No SES codes either, other than when I forget to turn off my manual fan switch.

Caution: Buying and fixing wrecked cars is somewhat of an art and should not be taken lightly. My dad has been doing this for 30 years, and I have been "assisting" for about 7. We fabricate, prep, paint, and restore these cars ourselves. Labor for something like this would be astronomical, ~$60-80/hr. I highly discourage taking a job of this magnitude on if you don't think you can handle it or don't have access to the tools to support it. However, if repaired correctly these cars are no less reliable and are capable performers even after a pretty good whack.

 

Another ?, would you recomend heavy mods on a car that has been crashed such as new heads and cam?

 

From 93-97 the SS are considered an SS, think they were only on order, person ordering had to request an SS so it could be driven down the street to SLP. But in 98 it became an option onto the z28 package. But yeah, it is pretty much a 4,000 hood. Thats why i bought a Z, rims had to go, exhaust, would be gone, and later i plan on adding better suspension. Think the ss just have different spring rates to ease the ride a little more. So i would have pretty much bought a 4,000 dollar hood and spoiler. So since i was quoted 645 a month for the Z i said exnay on the SS.

 

From my experience, engine and drivetrain mods are no problem. The biggest problem I'm having is suspension mods on my car. I bought a BMR Chromoly STB about a month back and it won't fit on my car because the drivers side shock tower is about 1/4 - 1/2 inch too far over (bolt holes for STB don't line up). So, I'm going to have to do some fabricating to get that to fit. The tolerance is so small that you wouldn't even know the shock tower was out of place if you didn't have the STB right next to it. Also, headers for this car might not fit on the drivers side because of the shock tower problem. The car still drives perfectly straight without my hands on the wheel, its just that the tower is a bit out of line. I may try to move the tower over some to allow clearance for headers and to make the STB fit, or I might just "correct" the length of the STB.

Heads and cam should be no problem at all. My engine runs just as strong as any other 98 LS1 with 60,000 miles. For my car, there was no engine damage to begin with so durability shouldn't even be an issue. If the wreck you buy has engine damage, that may be cause for concern with a heads/cam upgrade. If you're planning on building a 450rwhp beast, then I would suggest making sure you buy enough suspension mods to provide the needed support for the car, subframe connectors would be a must.