I'm thinking of installing the afr heads and SLP cam that is offered on SLP's website. The cam is pretty big and I drive my car daily so i'm not sure how well this combo will do for my application, my only saving grace is that it is a stick so idle is not that major of a concern. Does anyone have any suggestions or actually used this package on a driver? The package cost's about 3k and is supposed to deliver over 500hp. I wont be installing header's yet because I am still in Extended warrenty and dont want to change the exuaust yet but I may send the manifold's out for extrude honing because I think the 2002 has ZO6 manifold's which flow pretty well as they are. I'm not sure if this set up is too big for the street or if with the proper tuning will be streetable. I want a lumpy cam and will be happy running mid to low 12's. The trans is being race preped by Rockland Standard Gear and a good clutch is going in within a week or two. 12 bolt with 4:10's will be next...

 

There is better than SLP.
500 fhywheel HP, not rwhp.

 

extrude honing.....HUGE waste of money

you want to install heads and cam...but are worried about voiding the warrantee with headers....

what are you goals for power?

not many people run cams from SLP because they are pretty much the tail-end of the pack when it comes to performance.

there are MUCH better options out there.

 

exactly. You should look into Lunati or Comp for a Cam. And as for the heads AFR are good but there are many better companies out there ie patriot. I wouldn't go with SLP for anything they are a rip off. Just my 2 cents

 

I'd go with the new Dart 205 or 225cc heads and a Futral Motorsports cam package.

Or you can buy my already-upgraded heads in the For Sale section and get them ported for cheap.

Mike

 

I deal with extended warrenty inspecters all the time where I work and know alot of them personally. The way they work is they take picture's of the failed component and look for obvious sign's of abuse. A cam and head's wont look any differant to them than a stock set up, But header's are rite in your face and can be seen in a picture. I know this is a gray area but I think I can get away with it. I have a noise in the valve train which sound's like it is from the top end on bank 1. I am trying to get the labor covered for a cam swap and may go all out and do the head's while it is apart, but I may just do the cam, spring's, pushrods and a good set of rocker's for now...

 

A cam will SOUND modified unless you get a sleeper cam. If they hear that, all they have to do is look at the casting numbers on the heads (if you're using 5.3 or LS6 based heads they'll be different.) or even pop off the valve covers and see that you don't have stock springs.

As an aside, legally they CAN NOT void your drivetrain warranty for modifications that are not drive train related. Look up the Magnusson/Moss Act. Headers are iffy, but they are exhaust related just like a catback. I think they can get by with it because technically no LT or mid is "legal" strictly speaking. So a 50 state legal shorty shouldn't void warranty, but then again...with 00 up manifolds, whats the point of shorties?

 

Low 12's are easy to run and you do not need heads to do it.

The right cam and decent sixties will get you into 11's fairly easy.

 

for real.

 

Yep. for real.
My next goal is to get my LT1 running low 12's with cam and bolt ons. Gonna beef up the suspension real good.

 

Im in 12.50's at 107 mph with 1.7 60's with bold just bolt ons (A4). Just put in a Comp 224 581 112 (think thats right) Cam with all the goodies, where should I be now?

 

With a tune..11's easy.

 

Have brian herter send you a mail order tune. You will probably be trapping at least 115 and running 11.6-11.8 easy. Could go faster with a bigger stall.

 

Ed Wright of Tulsa (www.fastchip.com) has tuned it and it runs and idles great. I have been using Nitto drag radials and prob wont be putting slicks on till a 12 bolt rear end. I have heard that I am playing with fire having 1.7 60's, is that true and with the cam how big of a chance do I have to break the backend?

 

More than likely you'll be fine with the stock rear and an auto. There are plenty of guys running 1.5s and 1.6s with the stock rears and autos with no problems.

Mike