Gutted cat converters won't do much for ya. Modern cats are relatively free flowing. If I'm not mistaken, you'll have to run the O2 simulators if you gut them or take them off.

Skip shift is easy to do with a cheap 2.2 ohm ½ watt resistor from Radio Shack, but gains you no power.

Gears will make a big diff in torque multiplication from a take off or at low speeds, but will make the car lose traction easier. When you get soft tires and hook up you'll start tearing up rearends. DR's won't give you any power, but they'll help you use what you do have to accelerate your car instead of spin, but they also suck in inclimate weather.

Gains from LT headers will be minimal for the price, until you get other mods.

I highly recommend you get a book called "Chevy LS1/LS6 Performance" by Christopher Endres and read it. It'll answer most of your questions. You can get it off amazon.com or bigger book stores like the B&N chain.

I plan on getting a lid and cutout to start and work my way up from there. I doubt I change gears until I upgrade to a 12 bolt. I definately need to get some traction though.

 

Yo

Maybe one day, but I like talking to real people, not reading from a book... it lets me ask questions and get answers... but i'll probably pick it up for some insight on most topics.

But until then... what major mods need to be done to increase your rear's power handling?

What other mods help increase benefits for the headers?

 

i've heard two things: 1) Our axles aren't the strongest, 2) The gears actually tear through the plate on the rearend. (I've seen pics of the #2. From what I've seen on this board, most people that do rearend work (not including changing gears) go with a 12-bolt, usually a Moser 12 bolt. But the Moser 12 with ABS, and ASR/Traction Control runs about 3k. Thats all I know

 

Chris...You'll eventually want to go woth a 12 bolt rear if you decide to get 3.73's or higher and accompany them with sticky tires.. This will be strong enough to handle the gears/power. After a while the original 10 bolt will give. I too have heard and seen peoples rears literally shred up with the 10 bolt with 3.73's or higher with sticky tires.
With the sotp low end gains you are looking for...a lid, filter and cat-back alone, probably will not fullfill your expectations. As these mods are minor and will likely help more up top.
Again, for a LARGE gain in low end sotp power with a manual trans., you will need either gears, cam, heads, or head/cam package. These are the mods that will give you noticeable power gains. Keep in mind if you go with heads or a cam to have them specifically tailored for more low end torque. You can have them set up either way (low end or top end).
Typically headers will help out more up top. They will reduce back pressure and actually decrease low end torque in certain rpm ranges. The performance of the headers would also be affected by a cam or head change.
Before you do anything, I would definetly get yourself a lid, filter and exhaust system as these mods will help contribute to any of the more significant mods you may do.
The more mods you do the more you will need things like sub frame connectors and DR's or some kind of sticky tires. Also that 12 bolt will help handle all of the extra power.
It is easier and cheaper for me to increase low end sotp power as all I have to do is install a higer stall torque converter. Depending on the stall I chose (probably 3200) this will increase the feel of low end torque dramatically as I will be hitting my power band much faster/sooner. Torque converters can be good for up to a 6/10 gain in the 1/4 mile. This is yet another reason I chose the a4 (don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing the m6). Personal preferance is all.
Install a lid, filter, exhaust, then go with 3.73's. This will probably be the cheapest "bang for the buck" for you. See how that works for you. If you plan to add heavier mods, or race it alot, then go with some DR's and a 12 bolt.

 

don't get the B&M Ripper shifter PLEASE!!!!! i have both and the pro 5.0 is now in my car if that tell you anything

 

Yo

What do the Ripper Shifter and the Pro Shifter do anyway?

And... what is a lid? I always see it written, but never understood what it really meant.

Mods I had in mind of getting originally...

Stupid mods like Intake and Filter...

For sure Exhaust for a nice pertty sound :-)
Ram Air hood for damn sure no matter what I have, that is my favorite and Number mod for any Trans Am I shall be getting... Headers if I get silly and Cam is probably not going to happen since the install is a big bitch I heard.

But I heard Sub Frame connectors are great for daily driving to though... not sure how accurate he was, but i'm sure he was right... L0L

But that sounds pretty easy though, your mods in mind.

The 3.73 gears, lid, and all those easier installs... Thanks

 

Shifters are for manual transmission cars to help you make quicker/better shifts...Lid is what you would call an intake as LS1 cars have sort of an air lid with a flat filter underneth it unless you get a K&N kit or the like. Subframe connectors just help tie the unibody together better so the chassis doesnt flex as much under cornering and hard acceleration.

lata
Bill

 

Chris...A lid is as foff667 says. It is an air box lid of sorts the sits on top of a panel air filter. The stock air lid has restrictive bafflels inside of it. It also has a more restrictive opening to the mass air sensor. There are plenty of brands of after market air lids that do not have the baffles and have a much larger opening to the mass air sensor. Basically a high flow version of the stock lid.
Sub frames are just as foff667 said as well. They will reinforce the chassis to keep it from twisting. However, unless you plan on going with heavier mods/gears or you plan to race it frequently, I don't see the need for them for just daily driving. But I guess you'd better get them from the way you're sounding you'll be using ALL of that horse power ALL of the time .

 

Yo

I just like knowing that i'm reinforced and my car is able to take abuse if I feel the need, you know what i'm saying? I'm not going to drag race everyday, probably just during the weekends on teh way to my girlfriends house, thats about it really because other than that I don't really drive to much, work is only a 5 minute drive through city-like streets. Stop and go traffic with the speed limit topping out at 25mph.

Lets do it like this... lets say the car runs 13.5 stock at BEST... hypothetical... not for real. I would want my car to run at least a 12.7 so its almost a full second faster than my cars stock version. So I want to do some mods of course... just focus more on a specific part of the speed enhancer... the torque, the feel of speed.

By the way, how hard is a Cam install?
And while I asked that, what are the harder installs? I heard putting a cam in was a bitch, but I never did any kind of install, so I don't know... L0L

Thanks fellas

 

go to ls1howto.com for installs or installuniversity.com they will run you through most of the common installs...heads, cam, intake, and gears are about the hardest...though headers can be a b**** if they arent just right or if you dont have the tools to fix a slight problem. TQ converters can be tough to change too...not really tough just time consuming for most...really to get your car to a 12.7 if you have an auto would be getting a converter...that with some tires would get you right around there.

lata
Bill

 

Yo

Aight... yea that sounds good... i'll check that site out. But i'm getting a M6... fyi

So than I guess a few upgrades are in demand I guess?

3.73 or 4.10 Gears (How much of a difference are the two?), Sub Frame Connectors, Pro Shifter 5.0, Intake, Exhaust, Headers, 12 moser bolt, stickier tires, RAM AIR HOOD for god damn sure...

A cam if I really want to hit 12's if I didn't already and thats about it... is there any nice upgrades I missed you think? I think though for the most part those mods will be perfect for me for daily driving/racing...

 

Those mods should get you into the 12's no problem even without the cam. 4.10's will give you even more off the line then the 3.73's will. But will suck up all of your gas when you drive the distance to your girlfriends house or anywhere for that matter.
You could look into getting some form of computer tuning program (LS1 Edit/Auto Tap or Predator). These tools will allow you to monitor real time data such as your o2's, a/f, maf, and so on. They will also allow you to adjust your spark advance, power enrichment (fuel), cooling fans, etc.
I'd say with 3.73's, 12 bolt, ram air hood, intake, headers, exhaust, and some traction, you should see high 12's no prob.

 

Yo

Thats what I love to hear... no problem even without the cam... because I don't really want to do a cam... but your mods sound fantastic to me... :-D

You think that the 3.73 gears are still good for distant/daily drives?

 

performance gains from a ram air hood will be very minimal just so you know. They are mostly for show. Pretty much what everyone else said no use in repeating will get what you need.

 

Well...I've never had 3.73's before, but from what the people I know who have them say, there not too bad for daily driving. Certianly will be better than 4.10's.
Like Black01_Z stated...a ram air hood will not give a noticable gain. Although it will help to build some power in the 50mph and up range.