BMR's are NOT double diamond because it makes little to no difference and makes them heavier and harder to install.

 

Does anyone have any real data to back up these claims? There are so many products on sale it is difficult to differentiate the ones that work versus the perception that they will work.

If bolt ons are junk because there is such an incredible amount of load going thru the SFC that the fastener can not keep the joint tight then why is it that the DD (which is a truss stucture that is much much stiffer) not a good idea? I understand the weight penalty.

If the correct materials and fasteners are used for the bolt-ons there won't be any relative movement between the SFC and the body therefore there should be no difference between a bolt-on and a weld-on. The only reason I argue this point is that I don't want to weld them on my car if I wish to return it to stock in the future and there are a lot of claims with no data. Wonder if SLP has some data they would share showing how much torsional stiffness is increased with their SFC's bolt-on and weld-on. Worth asking...

Brian

 

How long does it take? Club members have been running these DD From Spectacle for over 4 years, with track and Auto-X use. ZERO elongation.

 

What's the worst that can happen with the bolt-ons? You don't like them, you can remove them. They elongate (sounds like a remote posibility), you can weld them.

I haven't made my buy yet but I'm going with bolt-ons.

 

i have bmr tubulars welded in.
that plus the strut tower brace and the car's stiff as heck
i think the dd's weigh too much and the boxed sfc's take away needed ground clearance.

it's all about balance and your needs

 

Thanks for all the replys. I'm going to go with BMR boxed sfc's. My car isnt lowered so Im not concerned with losing 3/4 of an inch clearance. Thanks again.

 

Good choice, but make sure you get them installed correctly alot of people seem to think you can do it with the car on jacks and thats not a good idea.

 

Yes I know, the suspension has to be loaded for them to install properly. Otherwise they will bind when the car is put back on the ground. I have a friend who runs a speed shop olocally that is going to do the install for me.

 

Good choice. If the BMR's are bolt-in, I only have one suggestion. Make sure the LCA bolt is torqued exactly to spec.

Too loose, and the rear will squeak. Too tight and the rear will pop. It's not really hurting anything, but it's annoying.

 

They are weld in.

 

I'm trying to decide which SFC's to buy for my 2002 firehawk with Bilstein suspension. Before this I had a 95 TA but you can't really compare the ride with the Bilsteins. It handles so good around curves I feel I really don't need SFC's but I'll be racing a bit at the track so which ones to get? I'll get a STB at the same time and I'm wondering how much heavier Kenny Brown's DD are to BMR tubulars? I'm lowered just under an inch with the Bilstein suspension so will boxed be a clearance issue on my car? Keep more post coming cause this isn't settled yet.

 

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF "BUT IT AND TRY IT", YOURSELF THAT IS.

Why not buy the SLP's in a bolt on fashion and have them welded in. Or just buy the weld on types and save some money. In either case, they will help frame flex which is a good thing.

TTExcyter

 

I've got BMR tubular. Great strength, great quality, and you don't give up any ground clearance like half the SFCs out there do.

Nate

 

I can't seem to find any bolt-ins that aren't the dd type. Does someone make a bolt-in that doesn't weigh and cost a ton?

Thanks

 

BMR..Hotckkis... Global West I think. Just go to Thunder Racing and check out what they have. There's other sites of course, but that's where I go.