jboo70

I'm in the process of refing my house and I'll get about 5 thousand for car upgrades. I've been reading a buch on the different message boards and I have two options. I can do a bunch of different mods to kinda round off my 00 SS or I can get a few big jobs like Heads and cam and stuff like that maybe no2 or superchager. I don't know which way to go but I'm leaning towards the big jobs cause I probably won't have this much money all at once to put towards my car again. It's stock now.

96SFLZ

Well, your car is stock now so personally, I'd take that $5k and get all the bolt-ons out of the way now: Lid, Headers, Y-pipe, catback and LS6 intake...then see what your left with. If you go with one of the more expensive headers and catback, you could easily drop two grand on just those parts (all the bolt-ons listed above, not just the headers and catback). Go "cheap" and you might only spend $1000-1200.

Either way, you'll have enough left over for a H/C combo but if you've got an M6, you're gonna need (want) a 12-bolt (or a Ford 9" if you can find one really cheap). With an A4, you're going to want to get a converter and gears (probably a tranny cooler and shift kit too).

So with an M6, you'd probably have to go with one of the less expensive headers and catback to get the other bolt-ons, H/C and 12-bolt.

With an A4, I think you could go with whatever headers, catback you want and still have enough for the other bolt-ons, H/C and converter, gears, etc...


Or you could always go the super-cheap HP route: just do some bolt-ons and spray it. Then, you've got plenty of money left over to do some suspension and appearance mods.

It's up to you but IMO you should get those bolt-ons first then decide what else you want to do.


Oh, I didn't mention anything about a blower because that would easily eat that $5k up and leave you with nothing left...or worse, looking for more money. Unless, you buy one used.

99BlackZ28T56

I'd just say don't overpower your drivetrain. Don't spend it all on power adders for the motor. Save some for the trans, clutch/tq converter, driveshaft and rear as needed. If I had the money I would beef up the lower end. Add LT's, cam and maybe ls6 intake and underdrive pulleys. Stock heads flow good enough so they can wait. Then you can go for the 300hp+ shot of nitrous (don't forget the fuel system upgrade, man going fast sure gets expensive ). Don't forget the dyno tune. A few basic suspension items, LCA's, relocation brackets, shocks and tires. Do what you can yourself and save a few bucks too. Looks like this may be over 5k so just plan all mods before you buy anything and leave $500 cusion for stuff that you forgot/didn't think of. Bolt ons and cam will give alot for daily driving, and the nitrous will help with the races. Make sure to save a little $$ for all the nitrous refills .

First you need to figure out what you want to do with the car. Daily driver only, street/strip, or weekend warrior. Supercharger/turbo will probly cost more than 5k by the time your all done. Nitrous is the the best power $$ but you have to refill the bottle after a few uses.

jboo70

I love this message board. Thanks a ton for the posts. It is a daily driver but I come from a family of fast cars, my bro in law has a supercharged s2000 and my dad has a twin turbo porche so the need for speed is in my blood. I'm really mechaniacly stupid but I'm learning and have some good friends that can help out a lot. I've heard bad things about nitros as far as engine ware and tare. I think that I'm gonna take your advice and go for the all around effect. I live in California so I have to be careful with the exhaust stuff and it is a M6 for future refernce. I like the hooker headers and the slp loudmouth exhaust. I have a huge list of misc. items that I have been researching. This board is a great place for info. Keep the ideas coming. Thanks again.

chpmnsws6

pacesetter headers w/Y-pipe - 400
pro 5.0 shifter - 170
cutout- 35
McMord electirc cutout plate (i've had the QTP and it broke so i got this and love it) so you can make it go thru the factory exhaust if a cop is looking- 105
spec stage 3 clutch- 400
8.8 ford rear end ready to put on your ls1- 1625
ported factory heads- 700 (or so)
built up top end - 400
cam- 350

thats $4185 and with a large enough you should be pushing 500hp or about 450 on a fairly mild cam

if you want the bottle on top of that PM me and i know of some cheap kits for sale that are like new..... i was gonna buy it but ran into $$ problems due to police not liking f-bodies (mustang owner)

jboo70

Red thanks for the shoping list. I like a lot of what I see. I live in California and I was told that if I was caught with cutouts it was a huge fine. I really want headers new cats, y pipe and the loudmouth exhaust from slp. I like the slp suspension kit stage 1 and some sfcs too. Why the ford rear end is it better than all the rest?

thanks, the search continues

chpmnsws6

the ford rear end is about the only thing ford ever really did good for the car world. the 8.8 can handle just as much as the 9 inch but is ALOT more efficient. please, i beg of you not to get a LM exhaust, all it is is a 220 dollar cutout.... i have a cutout and my buddy has a LM. when we both had the stock mani's we sounded JUST ALIKE but now i'm louder since i have no cats and LT headers. the best part is i can make my car sound almost stock and when he gets LT's he is gonna hafta replace his exhaust or he will be pulled over for it being REALLY REALLY loud

96SFLZ

Being in California changes things quite a bit. If you can't get around the emissions testing then you're going to have to pass emissions (obviously). Assuming there is a visual inspection, LTs alone could make you fail, even with aftermarket cats because they're not in the stock location. If you think you can get by the visual inspection part and you still want to do some internal engine mods; you'll probably have to go with a fairly mild cam to pass the sniffer.
I don't live in California so I can't really help you out when it comes to what mods you can and can not do. You'll have to ask some people in Cali. what they're running and if they have any trouble passing emissions...or see if somebody can help you get around emissions testing (that would open up a lot more options for you...as far as mods).

Personally, I would get this figured out first. In the mean time, you can get a lid and a shifter, if you want...those won't effect emissions at all.


For future reference, I would only go with a 8.8" or 9" if you can find one cheaper than a 12-bolt. A used 12-bolt will only run you about $1500 or so...new, it'll cost you a little over $2,000. An 8.8" or 12-bolt will usually have no trouble handling well over 400rwhp and 1.5-1.6 short times. A 9" is practically bulletproof. Also, there's a little more work involved with the Ford rear(s), either one won't just bolt right up, like a 12-bolt would. If you want to know more, check the Drivetrain Forum...I know 8.8" and 9" conversions have been discussed already.

jboo70

I spoke to a local smog shop and they said that if the headers are C.A.R.B. approved then I shouldn't have a problem. but he said to make sure and keep all my paper work. Once I have the money in hand I will be hitting the streets asking around and seeing if I can "make a friend" in the smog world. I'll have to do more research on the rear ends. Thanks tons guys.

96SFLZ

If any part is C.A.R.B. approved, you won't have a problem.

No LT header is C.A.R.B. approved though. JBA makes the only header (that I know of) that is C.A.R.B. approved. Those aren't much better than your stock manifolds though.

Ask around and see what you can find out.

Good luck

chpmnsws6

after 80k miles you can put different cats in "ROAD TRIP!"

jboo70

I went to the carb web site and they have quite a list of stuff that is approved and hooker comp headers came up a few times. None that seemed to be for my year or make but for a bunch of others. Once I get ready to buy I will call them and the manufacture of the ones I choose and double make sure.

chpmnsws6

well since you under alot of watch there i would port out the stock manifolds, get an 8.8 rear, lid, catback, forge out the engine, nice mild cam, and SPRAY THE HELL OUTTA IT! a 200 shot would you bring you right up to vipers no sweat

jboo70

I came across someone who is selling some stuff and I thought I would put the list up here for your help in helping make up my mind. Let me know what you think and if you recomend or don't any of these parts. thanks

FLP long tube headers with interchangable cat option, GMMG exhaust, chrome polished aluminum intake, sphoon chromoly adjustable torque arm with the driveshaft safety loop, billet aluminum adjustable panhard rod, billet aluminum control arms, BMR subframe connectors, eibach lowering kit (with drag option), a set of LS6 stage 2 ported and polished heads, here are the details

Hot Tanked and Pressure Tested
Stage 2 Ported
Valves Unshrouded
Polished Combustion Chambers
Ferrea 2.02 LS6 Intake Valves
Ferrea 1.55 LS6 Exhaust Valves
Crane LS6 Dual Valve Springs(good to .650 Lift)
Crane Titanium Retainers for Dual Springs
Crane Hardened Spring Seats for Dual Springs
New Viton Valve Stem Seals
New GM Valve Locks
Competition 3 Angle Valve Job
Milled up to .030

Heads flowed 303cfm @ .550 and 320cfm @ .600.

Flow testing done on a SuperFlow SF-600 at 28" of depression.
This is a used Crower stage 3 cam for the chevy LS1/LS6 engine. It has 234/239 duration @.050" and .566 lift. This cam will produce awsome power gains... in the neighborhood of 40 to 60 whp. just the cam alone.