My gears and bearings are shot in my rear end, and it's giving me an excuse to upgrade all-around. Ideally I'd love to just do a direct replacement Moser 33-spline 12-bolt, but I don't have $2,100+ to spend right this second.

I've been looking at alternative options, and I think this setup might work well for what I've got.

-TS&P's gear package, my choice of Motive gears (I'd take 3.73s,) an aluminum differential cover, full installation kit, and oil + additive for $400.

-Custom Moser axles for $250.

-Auburn Pro-Series posi unit for $400.

What do you think? Did I miss anything necessary? Those three right there should run me about $1,100, which is much easier on my wallet. It should replace everything that's worn out or shot, also while improving performance and strength. I don't plan on running a whole lot of power (probably between 350-400 rwhp when I'm done,) and I won't be running on a track with slicks. Does that sound good?

 

well, if you are planning on going to a good rear end later on, you will be spending half of what it costs to buy a good rear on rebuilding the stock one, which will still be just as prone to breaking, moreso with the deeper gears in fact.

though I didnt break my rear before upgrading, I was in a similar position monetarily. Heres what I did

Moser 9 inch housing and axle package from thunder racing. included housing, 31 spline axles (which are plenty strong), axles were machined for 4 chanel ABS, and new exciter rings were installed, axle bearings, seals and a 1350 Yoke was also included - 1150 shipped.

used 9 inch carrier with posi - 75

posi rebuild, gears, fluids, bearings, cost to have stuff pressed on, and som misc items - 350

it cost a tad more, but you could probalby find a useable carrier for less, and you wouldnt have to rebuild the center. mine needed a rebuild, but I only used it for one summer, and I had Reider Racing build me a good center this year.

this would allow you to spread the cost out, not waste money on the stock rear if you are planning on replacing it anyway, and you would have a rear end that would be able to handle more than you are planing on throwing at it even with a stock ford carrier assembly. then you could put a good center in later when you have some extra money.

just another option you might want to think about, I have a hard time saving money which is one reason I did this.

 

ford 8.8 is also another option i think i'm gonna go with a ford rear in my car

 

with all that and installation and speedo recal your more than half way to a 12 bolt, think about it

 

A 12-bolt will run me at least $2,100 and that doesn't include installation. Maybe you don't realize that half of what that will total me is $1,200, and that's a ****load of money.

Trust me, I wouldn't mind a 12-bolt, but it is NOT within my budget right now, and my power numbers do not dictate the need for one, since I never will be mounting slicks and running the car with them. This is my driver, not my track car. I want something strong enough to not take a dump on me again, but I don't need something that's made to handle 800hp.

Freak: So essentially you're saying I should get complete housing instead of the axles? How much will that run me? I assume I'll still need the posi and gears along with the housing (I'm stupid when it comes to rear ends and their components, try and be patient with me.)

 

Freak: Actually, now that I re-read your message, your idea doesn't seem very feasible. You're talking about a $1,200 housing alone. I'm not looking to replace the rear later on down the road if I do work on it right now, if that's what you're thinking.

What I was told is that my ring & pinion + my bearings are shot. I took this as an excuse to upgrade while I can to something that won't break on me again, but without spending the full amount on a race-made rear that I don't need.

 

I've changed my mind. I'm just going to upgrade the gears and the posi for now, and leave the rest. I'll just upgrade to a better housing if it ever breaks in the future (which I doubt it will, considering how the car's used.)

 

Why bother with the Posi or is it broke also, $400 axles in a c-clip rear is a waste of money, gear set and bearings is under $300 if you stay stock with the ratio you can skip the speedo calibrater better yet look for a used rear !!!

 

I'm not going to bother with a used 10-bolt, that's just asking to be stuck in the same situation later on.

Speedo recalibration is not that big of a deal. I'm looking to get a little performance out of this ordeal, hence the 3.73s (and no, I don't want 4.10s.) I might as well replace the posi while I'm at it with a better one.

 

a 10 bolt is a 10 bolt replace everything and your no better off than what you started with, why ask if you already know what you want ?