Quiksilver

i ran 13.18@108, i have 275/40/17 ss have 17's, w/ 3.73's raised limiter and shift points thats where im at rpm range, i still have some left not much, id like to calculate it too where can i?

AL SS590 M6

Check sig. for mods and times

Trevor98ramair

The best bang-for-the-buck for A4's is a torque converter, no doubt. You'll shave off .4-.5 in the 1/4 with the tamest of converters. .8+ is not hard with a larger stall, high STR, and sticky tires. If he's wanting a converter that's very streetable but performs well, then the Vig 3200 or Yank SS3600/SS3800 would work well. They will both give you a reduction of .2-.3 just in the 60' alone. My best 60' with 3.23's, all bolt-ons with stock internals, and a Vig 3200 was a 1.68. The car weighed in at 3,625# on that day, too! Whichever converter your friend goes with, be sure that he installs an auxiliary transmission cooler at the same time. A higher stall torque converter will build added heat from the additional slippage. He can get a B&M cooler for $50. Heat will kill a trans quick; it's cheap insurance.

It's really easy to get a full-weight A4 LS1 into the LOW 12's. The best I ran with stock internals, the Vig 3200, and 3.73's is a 12.04 @ 110 MPH on a 1.66 60'. I had FLP headers & ORP, Ed Wright custom tuning (mainly to adjust shift points and delete tq. management), the converter and gears, an induction lid, and skinnies & slicks. With a full bolt-on car, you'll want to be shifting in the 6,000-6,200 RPM range. My car made peak power at 5,600 and carried it out to 6,100 RPM. Generally speaking, you want to shift a few hundred RPM past your peak HP for the best ET. This will help on the shift extensions as well.

As for the calculators you guys are using, they don't take torque converter slippage into account. SO, they'll be much more accurate for M6 cars that don't have to worry with any slippage (unless they have a worn clutch ).

Trevor