OK, the next performance mod on my list is to get rid of the 2.73's, and install a set of 3.73's. I believe Richmond or Moser are two of the better (yet reasonably affordable) manufacturer's for gear sets, right??

Anyway, my question is.................... besides LS1 Edit, or a programmer such as HPP3, is there any other way to have the speedo re-calibrated that would be cheaper (or free if I knew "the right person" ) or easier, or is my best bet for the money to buy HPP3 or a Super-chips programmer?? I believe that the Super-chips is supposed to be a little cheaper, yet work just as well as HPP3. Also, would it then be OK to increase the shift firmness with a programmer, or would a mechanical shift kit be better for the transmission in the long run??

My goal is a "strong" daily-driver, yet always "race ready" car. As well, I want to know that what I do isn't going to hurt the major components, ie: transmission, by "electronically" boosting line pressure for harder shifts.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. T.I.A.

 

Back in September, I replaced my 3.23's to 3.73's, and purchased the "SLP speedometer recalibrater". I had an auto electritician splice it into the wire harness (behind the passenger front kick panel), and you just set some dip switches as per the diagram. The instructions are very easy to follow. My speedometer is dead on, which is important especially for an automatic for I understand the transmission shifts by MPH.

You can purchase the recalibrater at SLP, RKSport, Tbyrne, and most aftermarket sites, here is one:

http://www.tbyrne.com/ls1catalog.html

Click on "Transmission/Gears", and scroll down almost to the bottom, and you will see the recalibrater.

Hope this helps you out in some way.

SteveC

 

At $179 (US$ ?? ) I'm probably better off buying a programmer though, since after exhange I'd be paying close to the ~$400 CDN of a programmer instead of just a speedo re-cal. However, I'd still like to hear some opinions on adjusting shifts electronically vs. mechanically (programmer vs. shift kit) because maybe I'd be better off buying the speedo re-cal unit, and installing a shift kit to obtain the firmer shifts I'm looking for??

Any more opinions would be great.

 

I would get the Power programmer. I did the same swap on my car and needed to lower the shift points -2 mph to get it to do the 2-3 shift. Others have had this problem while others haven't. I would just really suck to buy the SLP unit and run into that problem

Do what I did, just buy a used power programmer. I got mine for $175 shipped. Just make sure the original owner removed the programming from their car before you purchase or it wont work on yours. Good luck. I love my 3.73s

 

That is something to think about (what jamesz24 said), I guess I was one of the lucky ones, my vehicle shifted perfectly after the install.

The reason I decided against the HPP3, is not only cost, however in California, under the new SMOG II program, they are going to be reading your computer settings as part of the SMOG process. From what I have read (don't have it anymore), any other than stock settings will cause you to fail, and have to go to a BAR test only station. I do understand for minor changes to the PCM, they can be reset to stock, however for heavier modified cars, this could be a problem. This testing proceedure should start in 2005.

JMHO

SteveC

 

Before I swapped out the A4 ... to an M6...

I ran a Trans-Go kit. The trans was much crisper but not exactly what I was looking for , still pretty lazy going to 3rd and downshifting from 3rd ....... while road racing ...and not firm enough on the 1-2 shift (Once you live with a well built TH-400.... you're spoiled for life!).

I was going to do a HPP3 to see what it would do for the shifting, but the thing blew up before I did .... so, no input on that.

I did, however, get an HPP3 after doing the M6 swap. I used it for speedo, fans, RPM limiter and also installed the engine program. I did see a seat of the pants gain in daily driving too.

(with a lid/filter, G-MAF, cut EGR tube, 3.23 gears, M6, original plugs @ 60,000 miles and HPP3 - dynoed at 323 RWHP & 334 RWTQ)

Remember, you can always swap back to the stock program if you need to get emissions or see the dealer......


I'd get a used HPP3 and do your speedo and what ever else you want to do ... and give the shift mods a try!

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A COOLER FOR THE TRANS !!!!!!!!!!!

Gordon

 

Pete I would suggest gettin the HPP3 strictly for the calibration and shft point adjustments.

I swapped to 3.73's and my tranny wouldnt shift right at first. I adjusted my shift points and it was perfect.

The shift firmness feature in the HPP3 is only for part throttle shifts and will not affect WOT shifts. You have to get a shift kit for that.

Good luck, Stu

 

my 95 had its computer altered at a shop.. so no computer was needed for the speedo calibration.. but I did use hypertech to adjust rpm shift points for the car.. I had an auto with a shift kit.. it was much better than the line pressure boost i think.. Also, shift kits can be modified.. there are certain holes that can be drilled out that control the different shifts...

 

So what I'm hearing is:

• I'm going to like 3.73's
• Get a programmer (to adjust shift points if necessary, and for the rev-limiter adjustments, fan switch, etc.)
• The programmer will not affect WOT shift firmness, so if I want firm shifts (ie: built TH400........or even my old TH350) then I'll need a true shift kit such as a Trans-go
• To be safe, get a tranny cooler

OK, sounds good!! I appreciate all your guys' advice, so now I know what I have to save up for.

 

Honestly get a 4000 stall/2.00 str tc instead. THen you can keep yer mileage and have loads of zip!

i got 3.73's and youcan /will spin like mad it nittos arent hot. I prolly would gotten a higher stall if i ad to do over again! Its an expensive undertaking!!!! plan on around $1000 fer everything installed?

 

Bull_in_a_china_shop: I hear what you're saying about a stall, but I'd rather have the gears (for daily-driving) since the power is then more readily available vs. having to rev above the lock-up RPM to get immediate results. With the factory stall but lower gears, at least whenever I hit the gas, the motor won't have to wind way up, and hopefully the ratio is low enough that the motor will rev out from low RPM's quickly anyway. BTW, do you find with the stall converter, just driving the car around town (normal street driving) that the engine often times has to rev out more to get going / keep going the same speeds?? While I've never driven a car with a stall converter, I know that a tranny shop near me WILL NOT install them since a lot of people bring their cars back complaining that they're not pleasant just to "drive" (unless they're being pushed beyond the stall speed). And as well, I believe they're harder on transmissions due to the extra slippage through them. I'm not saying that they don't serve a very useful purpose (especially for drag racing) but for a daily-driver, I don't think that's the route I want to go with my car.

Quick question though, what 60' times are you pulling off with the 3.73's and a 2800 stall??

 

Stall converters are a great mod, but I'd still go with the gears. If you had the 3.23s I'd defiently say go with the stall but the 2.73s are a tall gear to run a stall on. Also I'd consider going for the hpp3, on a manual its worthless but for an auto its a very good thing to have.

 

^^^^^my thoughts exactly.

 

for 60"times i can cut 1.7's if my nittos are HOT! And as far ax highway driving you turn some pretty serious revs at 70 mph. I got the strange series 2 3.73's and used royqal purple since it already has the diff additive. An i also use ls1edit

later

 

Bull_in_a_china_shop...I've got some questions for you regarding your car. I was thinking of getting the same set-up for my car, 3.73s with the 2800 stall cause I wanted to still maintain the tightness feeling of the accelerator.

So does your car still feel stock like, meaning not loose...How much did you cut off your time with that gear+stall combo??

Or I was thinking of getting a 3000 stall/2.00 str tc instead and keeping my 3.23s???What do you think? Will it feel really loose???