pros and cons about slp 160* thermostat
#16
Originally posted by robvas
Most cars will run rich until they are 'warmed up' according to the computer.
Cold air+warmed up engine is what you really want... Thats why your car feels so fast on cold days
Most cars will run rich until they are 'warmed up' according to the computer.
Cold air+warmed up engine is what you really want... Thats why your car feels so fast on cold days
#18
Roger
So what if I only drive in city traffic 2 or 3 times a month? And never go to the track?
All my driving is highway or open road. The problem that I have with this discussion is that it would lead some one to believe that they will not see ANY benefit from the stat unless they reprogram or get a switch.
But for those of us that don’t go to the track and don’t have to deal with city traffic, it is nearly irrelevant as to when the fans kick on. Unless for some reason your fans are on when you are driving 55mph?
Having the stat open and maintaining a cooler temperature on the highway is just as important as when sitting still. I know when I am stuck in traffic, the last think I care about is those 5hp I’m losing from heat soak.
The way I see it is this:
If you have a lot of city driving….best bet is the reprogram
If you do a lot of track…fan switch cause you can run it with the car off
If you do mostly highway or neither track or city…stock settings are sufficient
I guess I just have a problem with the generalized statement that is commonly made:
“a 160 stat useless unless you reprogram your fan settings”
it’s kindda like the general statement of “a wider tire gets more traction”, when in actuality that isn’t totally true. Since a 315 width all season tire will not grip any where as well as a 245width drag radial…
see what I’m trying to say?
So what if I only drive in city traffic 2 or 3 times a month? And never go to the track?
All my driving is highway or open road. The problem that I have with this discussion is that it would lead some one to believe that they will not see ANY benefit from the stat unless they reprogram or get a switch.
But for those of us that don’t go to the track and don’t have to deal with city traffic, it is nearly irrelevant as to when the fans kick on. Unless for some reason your fans are on when you are driving 55mph?
Having the stat open and maintaining a cooler temperature on the highway is just as important as when sitting still. I know when I am stuck in traffic, the last think I care about is those 5hp I’m losing from heat soak.
The way I see it is this:
If you have a lot of city driving….best bet is the reprogram
If you do a lot of track…fan switch cause you can run it with the car off
If you do mostly highway or neither track or city…stock settings are sufficient
I guess I just have a problem with the generalized statement that is commonly made:
“a 160 stat useless unless you reprogram your fan settings”
it’s kindda like the general statement of “a wider tire gets more traction”, when in actuality that isn’t totally true. Since a 315 width all season tire will not grip any where as well as a 245width drag radial…
see what I’m trying to say?
#21
bluecmaro96: because he knows ppl who do like me and actually most ppl here have STOCK unmodded 'maros and post their opinions and incite about mods they DONT have just because you have a camaro doesnt mean your knowledgable about everything all most of us here have to go on is OTHERS personal experience.. so just because he doesnt "have a camaro" doesnt mean he doesnt spend alot of time reading and gathering info and anyways if his post arnt "facts" he's intitled to his "opinions" ..right?
not a flame.. mayb just a critical analogy
/tek.
ps. i got your back eric
not a flame.. mayb just a critical analogy
/tek.
ps. i got your back eric
#22
Well BlueCamaro I know because of exactly what tekker said
A) Just because I don't have a LT1 or an LS1 doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about
B) I come from a car family, so I've spent more than my fair share around them. I also have more than a few older friends who have 4th gen F-bodies
C) I LIVE for magazines like Car Craft and GMHTP...etc.
D) Lowering the operating temperature (within reason) to raise power and efficeny is NOT F-body specific technology
Anyways like I said, a 160 degree stat will help lower your cars operating temperature which will help with cooling at the track, in everyday driving and what not and is also said to give you approximately 10hp (at the wheels?). Lower operating temperature means less chance of overheating, detonation and such...correct bluecamaro?
Thanks for the backup Tekker I appreciate it! (Tekker is my buddy)
P.S BlueCamaro, if you run a search for the thread "introducing Eric" you'll see the whole reason I joined this board was to gain useful knowledge BEFORE I jumped into buying a F-body
A) Just because I don't have a LT1 or an LS1 doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about
B) I come from a car family, so I've spent more than my fair share around them. I also have more than a few older friends who have 4th gen F-bodies
C) I LIVE for magazines like Car Craft and GMHTP...etc.
D) Lowering the operating temperature (within reason) to raise power and efficeny is NOT F-body specific technology
Anyways like I said, a 160 degree stat will help lower your cars operating temperature which will help with cooling at the track, in everyday driving and what not and is also said to give you approximately 10hp (at the wheels?). Lower operating temperature means less chance of overheating, detonation and such...correct bluecamaro?
Thanks for the backup Tekker I appreciate it! (Tekker is my buddy)
P.S BlueCamaro, if you run a search for the thread "introducing Eric" you'll see the whole reason I joined this board was to gain useful knowledge BEFORE I jumped into buying a F-body
#24
#25
Originally posted by robvas
If your car isn't overheating, keep the stock thermostat.
If it is overheating, somethings wrong. If the car was in like-new condition, you could idle in 100 degree heat with the AC on, and it'd never blink.
Flush your cooling system, inspect your radiator, water pump, be sure both fans come on, and be sure your thermostat and radiator cap are operating properly.
If your car isn't overheating, keep the stock thermostat.
If it is overheating, somethings wrong. If the car was in like-new condition, you could idle in 100 degree heat with the AC on, and it'd never blink.
Flush your cooling system, inspect your radiator, water pump, be sure both fans come on, and be sure your thermostat and radiator cap are operating properly.
#26
Originally posted by robvas
If your car isn't overheating, keep the stock thermostat.
If it is overheating, somethings wrong. If the car was in like-new condition, you could idle in 100 degree heat with the AC on, and it'd never blink.
If your car isn't overheating, keep the stock thermostat.
If it is overheating, somethings wrong. If the car was in like-new condition, you could idle in 100 degree heat with the AC on, and it'd never blink.
#27
Originally posted by teke184
correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't the A/C turn on one of the fans?
but to an extent i agree, the lower stat isn't manditory, but it is a nice inexpensive addition
correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't the A/C turn on one of the fans?
but to an extent i agree, the lower stat isn't manditory, but it is a nice inexpensive addition
Also, for what it's worth...when Car Craft did their late model engine tech article on the LS1 one of the first mods they recommended was a the cooler thermostat
#28
wasnt trying to be ignorant about you not javing an lt1 or ls1, calm down about that. i appreciate all the insight, i didnt realize a 160 stat could possibly bive 10 ho, thats cool, i do have an slp fan switch i bought for my 3.8 but will use on my t/a, maybe ill get teh 160 stat for the heck of it, my car isnt over heating by the way but gaining around 10 hp for 50.00 isnt bad at all
#29
Originally posted by bluecmaro96
wasnt trying to be ignorant about you not javing an lt1 or ls1, calm down about that. i appreciate all the insight, i didnt realize a 160 stat could possibly bive 10 ho, thats cool, i do have an slp fan switch i bought for my 3.8 but will use on my t/a, maybe ill get teh 160 stat for the heck of it, my car isnt over heating by the way but gaining around 10 hp for 50.00 isnt bad at all
wasnt trying to be ignorant about you not javing an lt1 or ls1, calm down about that. i appreciate all the insight, i didnt realize a 160 stat could possibly bive 10 ho, thats cool, i do have an slp fan switch i bought for my 3.8 but will use on my t/a, maybe ill get teh 160 stat for the heck of it, my car isnt over heating by the way but gaining around 10 hp for 50.00 isnt bad at all
#30
mo problem, trust me i can tell your not dumb all you are way more helpfull than the v6 people when i was wasting my money and time, unfortunately modding my v6 when in the end the damn thing is still slower than a stock ls1, which it shouldnt with all the motor work and cam, ok im done lol all the v6 peeps say the ls1 and lt1 guys are mean and dont help, but in reality you guys are way more helpfull than them and i thank all you for that