Hello. Im sure some of you have answered questions for me before. I have a 02 z-28 with a couple mods. Well to start out. 6 months ago, my a4(tranny) went out, it was stock. I got it rebuilt, with all the works. After installation I noticed that if I held the key to long to start the car, it made a click,click,click sound(rapidly). I simply thought maybe the tranny builder simply put to many shims or no shims for the starter. I ignored it and started the car normally and carefully not to hold it to long. I recently dumped my exhaust before axle and thought well I might as well check out that problem and see if I can quickly fix it. While looking up at the starter, I noticed prety quickly that my flexplate was actually fractured in half, along the bolt and onto the teeth. It might be dangerous but im still driving it like that for another month till I can afford nice flexplate. I was thinking of getting the TCI flexplate and 3000 stall from TCI. Is their a better stall and flexplate out there, or is that the best bang for the buck. Let me know so I can do some research. Thanks

 

Man if that crack turns into a chunk it could take your foot off. I wouldn't even start it let alone drive it.

The TCI SFI flexplate is what I would go to. Actually I did
I'm totally predudiced when it comes to converters for an LS1 f-body though. Yank all the way. Probably an SS3600 for your app.

When my car was young it went a best of 12.96 on drag radials with a lid and loudmouth. I added a Yank ST3800 and I went a best of 12.15. Average every day runs went from 13.20s to 12.40s and the car didn't drive much different than stock as long as you stay out of the go pedal.

Now I'm running the numbers in my sig with a Yank PT4000.

 

Is your car a 01-02 by any chance? The 98-00 cars had stronger flexplates, and I know of many people with serious setups running that early style flexplate with no problems. The TCI is a good flexplate, but I've seen them needing shims to bolt up converters properly.

DO NOT BUY A TCI CONVERTER! Go with Al's suggestion. Yank makes a VERY good converter. It is a little more expensive than the TCI converter, but it's worth every penny. TCI's are cheaply built and are often very inefficient. I would recommend going a little bigger than a 3000 stall even for a daily driver. 3200-3600 works quite well. Even for a bolt-on car Yank's PT4000 is an awesome converter. I run one too

 

TCI is garbage.

You can't go wrong with a nice Yank, Vigilante or Pro-Torque.

I second Al's suggestion. A SS3600 would wake that car up nicely

Mike

 

Heads up:
My buddy has a Yank PT4000 for sale for $380 shipped. Not a bad deal.
http://cz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=567136

 

thats a 4k stall? Aint that abit much? I do want to upgrade with heads and cam later on but damn i thought 3000 was good enough

 

Well I looked at the Yank st3600 and I like that. Thanks for the offer Kraest and ill keep my eye on it but christmas ripped me a new one and I have to save to get what I need. I think I might consider buying the arp bolts for the flex plate and converter. You think I should go with the TCI flexplate or is their something else out there?

 

3000 isn't much on an LS1. You can't compare this platform to a traditional Gen I or II SBC.

Stock LS1s make peak torque around 4200 rpm stock, which means that a 3600-4000 stall on a stock car is very do-able, compared to a "traditonal" 23* head, 1.5:1 rockers, long-runner intake manifold, 190 duration .450 lift cam that makes peak torque at < 3000 rpm.

Mike

 

Got to agree, get the TCI flexplate, do NOT even drive out of the driveway w/it & you would regret less than a 3600 stall. Yanks quality control has gone downhill since they started out-sourcing & they never admit when one is faulty....but they used to be the best there was. There is a better one out there that has the hard hit of a Vig, and the downtrack efficiency & MPH of the Yank....and for less$. Before a year & 1/2 ago the Yank was by far the best in quality & performance.

 

Whats the name of this crazy converter?