anyone ever done it or know how to....

any info is greatly appreciated

 

Never done it, but here is a really good article on it.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

 

Did it a few years ago , (I believe it was 1991) on a 1990 Honda CRX.... it was amazing how rough the in- and outlets came from the factory... I took .012" off to increase compression, polished the in- and outlets and installed a nice exhaust system. The result was: top speed 245 km/h (145 mp/h) at 7450 rp/m in 5th gear on the autobahn in Germany (legal, no tickets for speeding).....
On a V8 it's not as easy as on that little 4 cylinder..... well, once you have the heads removed it's a piece of cake... on the other hand...I don't even change my spark plugs since there's no access..... on top of that I'm getting old and lazy....LOL

 

thanks drasgear


nd redz not a ls1 head but at least a porting....i heard ls1 heads ar hard to do

 

Porting itself is just as easy as on any other head... and you'll see the result not only on the Dyno... but like I said it's a lot of work to get them out and back in.... you might want to take the complete engine out and install headers and maybe a nice cam at the same time...

 

i have headers.......
im not worried about getting all the stuff off im worried bout the actual porting and stuff

 

I did mine just short of a year ago. I actually did it as part of my header install, and took advantage of the open cylinders to inspect the sleeves (cross-hatching still present) and scrape the carbon off the piston heads while I was at it. I gotta admit I did a speedy polish job because I couldn't be without the car for long, and rather spent more time on porting the I/E ports.
I used a dremel with the metal cutting drum on the porting...the intakes usually require a larger radius at the top of the port and then I followed the staining left by the mismatching between the head and the manifold to give a quasi- port match between the two parts. Care needed to be taken not to cut too much from the intakes (thin walls, don't want coolant pouring in the cylinders!). The exhaust ports are more forgiving and can generally benefit from a good rounding out, within reason. I did my "polishing" using a die grinder with a round wire brush in the intake ports, combustion chamber, and exhaust ports.....worked well considering.

I have yet to install a cam & springs, timing chain, and intake. When this project happens I'll do a finished job of port matching and polishing. I saw an article somewhere describing the use of some type of putty or clay to disclose the port alignment between the heads and the intake/header ports....just a small ring around the ports, and do a quicky bolt up on the bench, seperate the parts and an imprint is left that can be used to cut the heads or the Holley aluminum intake to match. Again, caution on the intake side of the heads. It is imperative to keep similar geometry between the ports......don't take more off one port than any others and keep them shaped the same. The dremel setup cut nice and quick, although I went through several bits.......but aluminum is a pleasure to work with next to iron!!! Polishing requires patience, and control of the tool is IMPORTANT...you don't want to slip with any power tools and destroy the mating surfaces of the heads. The valve seats are hardened steel, but be careful there as well. Last....I took the carbon off everywhere it could be found with my die grinder and a wire wheel.........DON'T FORGET TO PERFECTLY CLEAN EVERYTHING BEFORE IT GOES BACK UNDER THE HOOD!!!! Keep the engine covered and lubed while it's apart. Any help I can offer is yours................and if anybody finds fault with my technique, speak up.....even though this work was done 12,000 miles ago without a glitch, I don't want to repeat any risky practices. Do good. Oh yeah-BTW-....after the head and header work?!?!-----It went from fast to OBVIOUSLY FASTER!!!! fact-----well worth the 12(?) hours of knuckle bustin!

 

u didnt take your heads off the car???

 

By all means!!!!! The heads come off, the valves get pulled and all valve components get arranged to go back into THEIR ORIGINAL PLACE when you're finished port/polishing.... i.e.-#1 intake rod goes back to #1 intake valve lifter when done.....piece for piece goes back where it came from, if they're not being replaced that is. That's why you want the exposed engine block lubed and covered, and the heads and components CLEANED before reassembly, and reinstallation back onto the block. It sounds like a lot more work than it is.....I'm STILL amazed how mechanic-friendly this car is. Just approach the job with your focus on thinking twice and doing once...you can't go wrong. I found it extremely helpful to keep a pen and pad with me during the process to smooth out some of the tedious jobs like head bolt loosening and tightening patterns & torque values; and the basic flow of the seperate tasks in the order they need to get done so wires and hoses don't get routed "inconveniently". Any thing else??.........I'll give ya what I know, I kinda wish I had me helping when I did the job!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

 

ya i can do all the getting stuff of part....but the actual porting is where i need details

 

OK, well, the job is described pretty much in my first reply to this thread. Aside from specific questions you want answered, the only other info I can think to offer is: Don't waste your time with a Dremel on this job......there's no substitute for a small die grinder and the available accessories you can use with it. The Eastwood Company catalogue contains ALL the bits and accessories you'd ever need from carbide burrs down to mini buffing bobs, mandrels and aluminum polishing compound which can get you a mirror finish on the ports, bowls, and combustion chambers. Like I said, that's the detailing I'll be doing when I tear down for my cam/springs/timing chain/ intake upgrades. You'll find Eastwood at www.eastwoodcompany.com;..... get their catalogue. If you don't have access to a decent compressor, you should be able to rent the portables @ Home Depot for approx. $35/day.....they'll get the job done, although the die grinder may need to be bought ($40?).
You'll need to purchase a cylinder head swap gasket kit (Thunder Racing ~$300). So, the project is going to run a few hundred $s even doing the work yourself....but it sure is rewarding to have done it yourself over the course of a weekend. In case you've missed the bottom line of this job, I'll repeat it for your convenience-----CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN everything before it goes back together. QUESTIONS???????

 

so i should keep it clean??? jk lol........


what compound do u use...i used mothers metal polish crap on some previous work and it doesnt shine all that great

 

I'd guess that the Mother's product you used was not for the same type of "finishing" that we're talking about when polishing cylinder heads. There's a difference between bringing out a shine from a prepared metal surface, and creating one from rough castings. When I'm ready to get into the polishing phase I'll look into it a little better, but at this point it seems I'll be using Eastwood's White Rouge compound, with some of the die grinder buffs they offer.

 

how much is the white rouge stuff

 

My mistake---you'll want the "Tripoli" compound for $5/13oz. tube. The white rouge is for the mirror finish which is a little excessive for head polishing.....unless you're REALLY obsessed!! I don't know how much would be needed to complete the job.