I have searched thru the forums - seems like there are a lot of qeustions, but no definitive answers ...

Car is a '99 SS - O2's were replaced ~ 20K ago, and it runs fine. I got multiple AIR codes about 2 months ago, and the air pump was not running . Replaced that, and all was well - until 3 days ago when I got a SES light w/ the P0410 code.

I cleared it , and it came back on this morning after roughly 100 miles from the last clear.

I know that this is an error caused during the hot cycle , closed loop test, and I can hear the air pump running when the car starts, so I have to assume that it works.

Years ago I had a code that was solved by replacing one of the checks - would a reasonable assumption be that the other is now due to be replaced ?

There is no code showing one bank or the other, only the P0410.

One thread indicated that the air pump was bad - it ran fine when cold, but not hot. I'd rather not pull it out again of I can avoid it - the checks are on the top, and relatively easy to see as opposed to the pump.

Thanks !


Britt

 

Have you checked the flexible connections for leaks? I'm assuming you have some rubber couplings somewhere in the AIR system.

 

I replaced the driver's side check - I believe that was the one that was still OEM @ 108K. Light came back.

BUT ! In the course of checking for leaks as you suggested, I could feel pulsation in it while the engine was running. There is a connector on the hose that leads from the pumps to the checks - the connector is right about where the strut mount is on the driver's side.

If I disconnect that while the engine & air pump are running , I get a pulsing noice/air flow - from the exhaust side of the hose. I do not know how much air the pump is supposed to put out, as I did not notice a lot of flow out of the air pump side.
I thought the checks were there to keep the exhaust from getting back to the pump - ?

If that is correct, then I suspect that the other check has indeed gone bad, although I may still have air pump issues as well. Bloody emmissions !

Thanks for the help !

Britt

 

P0410 means both banks do not recognize additional airflow generated by the AIR pump. Both check valves being bad is possible, but unlikely. The most likely scenario is water ingestion into the pump, causing pump failure.

To test the pump:

Check the AIR pump fuse. If blown, replace. If it blows again, your pump is shorted. If the fuse is good, remove the AIR pump relay, then with the ignition on engine off, install a jumper wire across the terminals (fusebox side, not relay itself) for relay pins 87 and 30. If the pump runs, you have an airflow problem between the pump and manifolds. If it doesn't run, and/or the jumper sparks or gets hot, you have a bad pump.

 

To add to your info :

You can hear the pump run on start up. The fuse is good, and for grins I swapped the2 relays - both are side by side & have the same P/N. So, in case the second check does not solve the problem ( I changed it this morning - what the heck ), is there an easy way to diagnose the air flow ?

Again I am assuming that the air flows from the pump to the checks, then into the manifolds. I believe the inlet is the open hose that has a right angle bend visible behind the driver's head light assembly in the hole between it and the shock tower.

I guess it could bea bad pump that runs , or a bad check in the pump - if one exists.

The pump was replaced ~ 3 months ago - it died, and popped the fuse. A new pump & fuse solved the issue - until last weekend.

Thanks for the advice !

Britt

 

Disconnect the rubber hoses at both check valves and install the jumper as described above. It should feel like the same amount of air a hair dryer would push out, or your HVAC blower motor through just one vent (all other vents closed).

If the airflow seems OK, either remove the check valves from the manifold pipes or remove the pipes with the valves and check again. The one-way check valves are designed to allow fresh air into the exhaust, but not allow exhaust into the AIR system.

 

I pulled the hoses off the pump tonight w/ it still on the car, and started the motor - no air output.

I ultimately pulled the pump down and put it on the garage floor - electrical still connected. One time they were nice enough to give slack in the wires - unlike say the field wire on the alternator ...

Same test - start the car, and no air output. The pump runs just as fine as it can be. The outlet appears blocked - I have a warranty replacement on order from O'Reilly.

I have been reading the info here ( linky )- but, I am having a hard time deciding whether there should be air at the outlet w/ all it's hoses disconnected or not.

Step 20 makes it look like it should work as with no hoses connected the engine can't get the vaccuum created to the air pump, but hey - I could be wrong.

I also cannot figure out how to get that air bleed valve solenoid off to give it a better lookover - pictures would have been nice as the Haynes is lousy there , too.

I should know tomorrow when the 'new' air pump gets in.

Bit of trivia - the counter guy said this same pump fits a Jaguar. If it is made by Lucas (electrical system of Satan ! according to my Jag parts buddy ) then maybe that explains a lot ...

Britt

 

It was the reman air pump. Got the new one tonight, plugged it in (while on the garage floor ) and fired the car up. Air !!

Installed, started her again, checked the hose on the shock tower - still air. Done deal.

Stoopid reman pump/emmissions. At least it was warrantied, and now my checks are pretty glossy black again - well, except where the wrench buggered the paint/smeared some never seize.

Hope this helps someone else - Britt.

 

First thing I do when I get an LS1 car is throw the EGR and AIR stuff in the garbage can.