How much do they cost ? I am almost scared to ask !!

Here's the deal:

The positive terminal has been a little corroded since I bought the car. I figured no biggie - I just clean it up & that's the end of it.

So, last Friday after fighting the cluster battle (long story) & attempting to re-install the HPP3 (won't work now - part os the cluster story ! ) my battery starts acting up. O.K. - time to seriously clean it.

Hmm - damn thing is stuck - whoops - rounded the terminal !

Well, 4 hours later & an attitude that I could have burned the car for the insurance money, except I'd have to push it out of the garage first and was too tired ! I got the terminal off, a new battery in, and am looking @ having to replace the positive terminal.

Why ?

Oh, well Mr. Battery decided to leak from the backside of the positive post, thus welding the cable/nut assembly to the battery case. When I finally was able to vise grip the nut, it turned - so well that the entire positive post of the battery came out leaking acid onto my wires below.

There was so much baking soda/water mix under the hood @ that point that it looked like a winter scene !!

Anyway, since the cable runs from the battery to the starter PLUS has that lead to the alternate positive connection on the driver's side, I just wondered how hard it was to replace it assuming that I route it back thru the wiring protectors behind the radiator as GM did.



Thanks in advance !!


Britt

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'99 T/A
Best 13.071 @ 104.92
Now own '99 SS # 2073 !
12.969 @ 105.44

 

Why not splice a piece of cable onto what you have left of the positive cable???

Im not sure what gague our cables are, but if you could either find a good crimp and then use some heat shrink, or soder the wire together and then heat shrink it, Id think that would be cheaper

Good luck

 

Ok... I can help you here..
ITS EASY!

Did it on my LT1 and they are as cramped as these. Did it by myself.. Bought the wires from a local dealer to make sure I got the geniune part.

No problems as you simply follow the old wires routing.

New wires installed in less than an hour.. That was for both positive and negatives.



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Psycho Cabbage
2002 Camaro Z28
(6 sp) Bone stock
Webmaster for RaceHer.com
Check out the current polls and vote!
by the prìcking of my thumb, something wicked this way comes

-Traded in- 1995 Camaro Z28 (A4 (#6 I might add!),ES tranny mount and torque arm bushing,SLP CAI,ASP 34% Underdrive,Strange 3.73's (shredded Auburn),1LE alum driveshaft & intake elbow,Yokohamas AVS Intermediates,160-stat,MAF screen removed, HPP+(for shift points only),Borla Y-pipe, Flowmaster Force-II catback, Gutted Cat, Airlift Airbag, !TB Bypass, J&M LCA's, Bosch Platinums, Moroso BlueMax Wires, Free RamAir, Meziere Electric H2O pump, MAC 3point STB, BMR Panhard, SCR SFC's
Just installed:Nu-tek Heads (mild port) and Comp Cams 1.6RR's! New track and dyno #'s to follow!
best 13.44 @103.26
0-60ft 1.96
270 RWHP/296 RWTQ
0-60MPH 4.8sec
1987 Porsche 944S (waiting on LT1 mod)

 

I had a leaky battery in my classic 1969
Blazer last winter, and even tho I poured box after box of baking soda down
where the acid had gone, and sprayed water on it over and over again with
more baking soda each time, there were wires and components that became
horribly corroded from all of that acid and it ate the paint off of everything it touched.

Just a caveat to you on your problem that might save you some major headaches. You really should immediately get your car to a professional
engine/undercarriage steam cleaning place and have them get the car up on a rack to carefully clean ALL the residue left from the acid off
and then blow it dry with compressed air, then paint/repair the areas where
the acid has eaten down to bare metal, or you will have a real problem with
rust and or corrosion later.

This can be nipped in the bud now, or potentially cause big problems later,
depending on how badly the acid has eaten the wiring and other things under
there.

I am speaking from experience here, and hope you don't just blow it off and
say oh well, I think the baking soda has me covered. NOT! Just sharing a
bad experience and my having to replace a whole bunch of wiring that was
completely ruined in my case as well as the frame, shocks, springs, and the
inside of the fender well being a horrible mess with no more paint on them
and beginning to rust badly before I got around to doing it right.

As far as splicing your cable together like was suggested, why would you
cobble up a nice car with a spliced cable that would be a possible cause of
problems in your electrical system later? This is no place to cut corners!
Get that original cable from your local GM dealer (about a $50 item or less)
but worth every penny even if it is twice that much. These cars are rolling
computers as you know, and the electrical system is no place to cheat on
price or labor to make it like new again.


Good luck,


------------------
Pewter '99 Z28 LT1 A4

Sport appearance ground effects package

Chrome 16x8 5 stars with Yoko 245 V rated

MBA Pedals & Door sills

SS Stainless rear inserts

QTEC Cutout, TransGo shift kit only performance mods so far.

No Time slips yet, just got the car in July '02

 

Thanks for the replies !!

Oh, welcome aboard, ChevyGoldfinger !!


Britt

 

I purchased a positive battery cable for my '94 last year for around $35 from the dealer.

 

Part# (for '99 Z28) 12157131 -

GM Parts Direct has it for $23.49 + shipping/handling

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/index.cfm

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'99 Z28 A4 BLACK
▪ SLP air lid, K&N filter, air box mod, Borla exhaust, HPP3, 160* stat, Magnecor 8.5 mm wires, NGK TR55 plugs
▪ Pioneer DEH-P77DH, Polk speakers